Thanks for keeping us posted......was wondering about this just the other day. Sounds like you may have it this time!!

 

Failure, once again.

Another head and leaking water at the back passenger side. It seems that I only have a piece of junk at this time with no engine as I am at a loss now. Makes my decision about renewing supporter status since I won't be around any longer till this problem is sorted out.

 

Darn it....sorry to hear that.

 

....if you're ever headed south and want to try a different cast iron intake, I have one that you are welcome to have.

 

Sorry to hear about all the 7 leak failures... If you're willing to try for #8 I have a suggestion...it means new head and intake gaskets - using the ones with which you're comfortable.

Suggestion: Try tightening/torquing down the heads and intake bolts simultaneously, in increments, as a unit. Back in the day (haha) I've done this without problems/leaks...hope it works for you, if you you're still playing with the FE.

Let us know how it turns out?

 

After spending a morning with the fellow who did the heads it turns out the intake is warped. A straight edge across all the ports clearly shows the two middle ports recessed from the two outer edges. Would need to remove .015" from each side to level and then the correct amount on the two flats. Only problem is that the heads only had .003" removed from them and generally one removes similar amounts from the intake that came off the heads. None can recall ever seeing a warped FE iron intake.

So now the problem that needs to be dealt with. My intake is a 2 bbl. which I would really like to keep as in original. There are no such intakes available around here and who would know if they had been machined. That could be true of any FE iron intake I run into be it 2 bbl. of 4 bbl. Of course the other solution is an Edelbrock Performer aluminum intake. Not original at all and would need a 4100 switched to manual choke to work.

So far have pondered this for a week and haven't made a decision.

 

Years ago I built a Clevor (351W with Cleveland heads). The intake was cast by B&A Ford in Arkansas. The machine work was pitiful and one side was at an angle front to back and unusable. A tool and mold maker at the time I had the access to machine tools and the skills to machine it flat and then fab and add a spacer attached using small flat head screws. The spacer wound up being about .250" thick, it was that far off. Worked great.
My suggestion...have the machine shop flatten the intake, then you could easily fab spacers out of 0.015" x 6" brass shim stock. It comes in rolls, check with McMaster.
If you've ever used a ball peen hammer to make a gasket, same thing here.

 

You have one choice - mill the intake and the heads appropriately, and move on

Keep in mind if you mill everything that the cork end-gaskets will no longer fit most likely, and you'll just need to use a good thick bead of RTV and let it completely set before trying to start it up ...

 

I have a better choice. I have a 2bbl 352 intake on my dad's original, never been rebuilt engine. You are welcome to have it if it will help you regain your determination! I am in Bakersfield...not a bad drive for you and certainly cheaper than shipping. Let me know...its still on the engine and has never been off.

 

Well I know the heads are not coming off again. This last time they were put on using NOS Ford head gaskets which I liked better that Fel-pro. I'm just not going to do that which is why deciding what to do is taking a long time.

Shims seems interesting if that is what was meant. Something to take up the missing .015" between the head and intake.

Also resonateur's original intake might work but time is a major factor for such a drive.

 

Tbm:
I'll keep my ears open for anyone planning a trip north, you might do likewise for any southern travelers. I'll also contact "the masked rider". He's a long time FTE member, and only a stone's throw from you. I'm certainly no expert, but I would be leaning more to using original, undamaged parts rather than "splicing and dicing" a modification to make it work. I know you've been stewing a while....so time frame shouldn't be a big issue. Consider all your options and let me know how I can help. I know how defeating frustration can be and I'd like to hear you truck is back in operation! By-the-way...have you ever tried the copper spray on your intake gaskets to seal the water ports? I've used it on a Y-block and it has worked well...those tend to have water port sealing issues as well. I'm sure you've investigated all possibilities.

 

Well, those heads were rebuilt, weren't they? Were they milled?

Straighten out the intake you have, place it on the heads with gaskets and see how things line up. Even from the factory, nothing was perfect

 

I'm over in Martinez. I have a spare 4 barrel "S" intake, I can bring it over if you're interested. It isn't the cleanest and I haven't checked for flatness... I also have my 360, intact, with the 2 BBL intake- I don't think it's ever been off. I just had to move a bunch of junk around in my garage, including the 360 still mated up to the C6 just to change my wife's oil. Been thinking of tearing the 360 apart just to make room-
D

 

The heads were touched for .003 which is not enough to alter the fit much less explain the warped intake. Taking .015 off each side of the intake should cause the intake to sit quite low.

 

Now you have my interest being 10 miles up the road. My stated desire is to be original which is the 2bbl intake and carb. If I had to go aluminum, meaning 4bbl., I'd rather use a Ford intake vs. Edelbrock. I know one heavy and one light but then I am a stickler for all Ford.