I Have a 1994 ford ranger that probably should be sitting in a junk yard next to some Chrysler product but atm i have to use what I got. Anyhow I got a hill that's about 3 miles from my house that when Im going up it it starts dieing about 3/4 by the time I get to the top it wont run anymore and takes 10 minutes of the computer unhooked to get it started again. If you leave it hooked up it will not start. The computer throws no codes at all. So far Ive changed the fuel pump and the ecu and it still does it. Also after it does start taking it back home it starts sputtering and sometime dies again. I can let it sit and Idle for ever and it wont stop but at that hill it does it all the time and im getting good fuel pressure . Im at a loss and I need to get this thing running for right now till I can afford another car. Just lost my good old 1995 saab to 255k miles and Im kinda stuck atm. Another side note is it has an engine from a 98 in it with the 94 intake. It ran perfect for two years and started doing this. The MAF sensor is operating fine. I tried taking it up another hill here and it doesn't do the same thing. The weather and temp doesn't seem to matter. Ive checked vacuum leaks and cant find one so that seems ok. Any help be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Welcome to FTE.
I'll see if I can get things started.
No set trouble code clues makes a trouble shoot a little more difficult, so we have to drop back & begin with the basics, so lets think about this some more.

Since you say there aren't any trouble codes, I assume you've scanned the computer for codes.....right, not just depending on the CEL not being lit???? Does the CEL light up for its self check at KOEO, before cranking the engine????

We can have trouble code clues stored that haven't matured/happened often enough, for the computer to turn the CEL on yet & a scan can pull those codes.

If there really aren't any codes stored, that in itself is a clue, in that it suggests the problem is something the computer isn't monitoring.

Seeing as how it'll run, just not well when it gets to the hill & not wanting to restart until the computer is reset, or it rests for 10 min, suggests a fuel delivery problem. EDIT: When you say it won't start unless you let it set for 10 min & reset the computer, whats going missing when it won't start, fuel, or spark????
SO, did the problem come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event???? EDIT: Is it wimpy at throttle up to pass????

Have you measured fuel pressure with a gauge & if so post the KOEO & KOER Numbers.
Have you measured fuel delivery Rate over time???? It should be 1/2 pint/15 seconds & with the right fuel pressure gauge with the pressure bleed off hose, we can easily perform a time vs volume measurement, to make a flow rate test while doing the fuel pressure test. If volume is low, when last was the fuel filter changed????

Have you pulled over & measured fuel pressure on the hill when its wimpy & acting out????
Have you tried loosening the gas cap to equalize tank pressure when it won't start, or is wimpy on the hill????

There have been reports of faulty gas caps not venting the tank & as fuel is used, a tank vacuum is created that the fuel pump has difficulty, or can't overcome & the vehicle will slow, or stall from fuel starvation.
If it'll immediately recover when the gas cap is loosened to equalize tank pressure, suspect a faulty cap.

When we disconnect the battery to reset the computer, we wipe the KAM(Keep Alive Memory), in which the fuel trim tables & the cold & warm idle strategy are stored, so corrupt fuel trim tables may, or may not be a clue.

How did you conclude the MAF sensor is ok???? If you used a scantool to monitor the MAF sensor PID to the computer, that scantool will likely be able to monitor other things, like fuel trim, O2 sensor switching range & speed, TPS, ect, so post up those numbers if you have them.
A bunch of thoughts for pondering, with more info/clues, the forum may be able so suggest a more focused trouble shoot.

 

Your symptoms sound like a bad ignition module, it is located on the rad support just to the drivers side of the rad. Aftermarket versions of these electronic parts have a terrible reliability record so I routinely shop at the junkyard for OEM replacements, you will find the same part on numerous '90s Ford vehicles including full size trucks, the heat sink it is mounted in will be different in that case but the module is the same.

 

Ive done the jumper wire test get a 1-1-1 KOEO

It all started with a bad fuel pump and after I replaced it it gradually got worse over time.

I don't have a gauge atm and I changed the fuel filter a couple days ago.

Negative, I have to get it started as quick as possible as it is a two lane with no shoulder. Has led to some interesting fun
Has a new locking cap I bought two weeks ago. And it does seem like not right driving it. I just replaced a coil pack and it solved an issue that smelled like rotten eggs.

MAF sensor is a rebuild just bought. Im seriously tired of throwing money at it, and finding someone with a tester around here is next to impossible. Most the junk yards dont have anything from under 98 here. Thank you for the replies.

 

OK, that's some good feedback. BTW what engine & tranny does this ride have & how many miles on it. We know its a 98 engine with the 94 manifold that's been running ok for 2 years, but we don't know which engine we're talking about.

I agree, don't throw any more parts at it without a positive on a diagnosis.

So the fuel pressure hasn't been tested with a gauge yet, thus we don't really know if fuel pressure, or flow rate is ok or not. Harbor Freight has one for about $20 that'll do ok for a pressure check, IF we apply ptfe ribbon dope tape on the gauge & hose fitting threads, so it won't weep fuel, but the $20 gauge doesn't have the psi relief valve & hose arrangement, so we can't easily perform the flow rate test. For that, we have to pony up some more of our gold to get their higher end gauge. Anyway get a flow rate over time, KOEO & KOER psi test & post the numbers.
The reman MAF sensor belongs on your suspect list too, as members have reported problems with reman MAF sensors, so without a scantool to monitor its PID output to the computer, how did you determine the MAF sensor is ok????
Are you by chance using an oiled foam, or cotton gauze air filter????

When you replaced the fuel pump, was the tank clean inside, or did you notice the pump pre-filter sock condition???? When you changed the fuel filter, did you open it to have a look inside at the filter media loading???

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but there are a lot of unknowns that could be causing your problem & you may have more than one problem mucking up your trouble shooting results, so we have to keep an open mind & try to establish a base of info for a trouble shoot.

When its acting out, have you checked the spark quality, to see if its wimpy yellow, or a healthy blue & steady, to partially answer Conanski's ignition module thoughts???

 

The 98 engine has 70k miles on it and is a 4.0 and its a 5 speed 4wd.

Be a bit as this is my only current ride and harbor freights about 70 miles away.
The cotton one.

The tank was dirty pulled the bed and flushed it with some special stuff a friend of mine had left over from doing his f-150

I totally understand , In a tight spot right now cause of this so im sure there are things im not thinking of. Ask away.

Yes I have. My friend is looking to see if he has any around his shop to send me . I know that coil pack was bad and if i read the ICM write up right that it probably took the icm with it. ATM cant afford a new one so I have to wait and see what my friend has as the nearest junkyard is further than Harbor freight. Sometimes I wish I lived in a city then I go there and decide different.

 

I appreciate both your help but looks like I have done what I can do for this weekend. I have to walk to work which wont leave much time for anything but sleep. Maybe try and get something done next weekend. Ty guys.

 

Ok, takes air, fuel, spark & compression to make em run, keep us posted on what you find.

 

Since you don't seem to have many diagnostic tools available for your trouble shoot, we'll have to sort of improvise. To check for spark quality, we can use/connect to ground/engine block, an old spark plug set to the Max spark gap spec & view its color when the engine is cranked. It should be blue/white & snap with authority. To be kind to the engine, first disable the fuel pump at the in cabin fuel pump inertia switch, so the engine won't try to start & wash the cyl bore down thats under test, while cranking the engine.
You say the fuel tank was dirty & you removed & cleaned it when replacing the fuel pump, but if you didn't also change the fuel filter at the same time, the new pump was likely being worked hard & may have been overheated, especially if you were running the tank below the 3/4 empty mark. The fuel is used to keep the pump motor cool.
Also, your 94 has a return type fuel system, with the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the engine, with a return line running back to the tank & seeing as the tank was removed for cleaning, make sure that return line isn't pinched/kinked/obstructed in some way, as that'll muck up fuel flow too. So you should have free flow from the return line pressure regulator attach point, back to the tank when you blow into it.
Seeing as how your using a cotton gauze air filter & they're known to dirty up the MAF sensor from the oil & particles the filter passes, that migrate to the down stream MAF sensor heated air flow element & muck up its calibrated output to the computer about true airflow into the engine, so I'd consider removing the new reman MAF sensor, let it cool & carefully clean it with CRC or Valvolene MAF Sensor non residual, plastic safe spray cleaner. Don't poke the element with the spray wand & let it dry while keeping it squeaky clean when reinstalling, so as not to re-contaminate it.
Then I'd also seriously consider installing the specified Motorcraft air filter element while the air box is open.
Did you use a Motorcraft fuel filter & was the old fuel filter a Motorcraft & did you open the old filter up to see how loaded it was???? I'm trying to get an idea for how loaded up the fuel injectors sintered filters might be. If they're loaded up from particles passed by a sub standard fuel filter, the injectors might be giving a wimpy/lean squirt. It's all a vicious circle!!!!
If your friend has, or can come by a scantool, like the Actron CP9145, with the EEC-IV DLC connector, you could hook it up while the engine runs & monitor, fuel trim, MAF, O2, TPS, ECT, ect,ect & thus quickly get a feel about whats going on with your wimpy engine power, if fuel pressure & flow rate check out.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.

 

Okay got the ignition control module truck runs alot better but still same problem. I noticed some things today and I think its a fuel problem. Im having to prime the pump two or three times to get enough pressure to start. Also I am 99% sure the return line is not seeing fuel coming back. There is no gas in the vacuum line of the fpr though. Im starting to think something is going on in the fuel rail or the line going to the fuel rail. I took it for a test drive and hit a speed bump and it started doing what it did when i tried to go up the hill. I have to work till Sunday so I don't have time to troubleshoot till then. I got to get this running cause this walking 7 miles one way to work is a time killer. I do have one question though , are the fuel rails prone to rusting? I know i need to get a gauge, I ordered one online today should be in next week. Just trying to not do this walking thing so much lol.

 

Okay finally got a code from it when it messed up. 522 and 556. The 522 is unimportant. Im guessing 556 means I get to trace through wiring? BTW Ive already changed relays out and I still get the same problem. Ive tried resetting the inertia switch and it makes no difference. Just seems like I have to let it sit for ten minutes with the computer off and it comes back up. And ive tried three different fuel pumps so im guessing this is in the wiring to the fuel pump. Unless im missing something that you guys know of.

 

With it acting out after a bump, it sounds like a faulty/loose/corroded/ect/ electrical connection. So a wiggle, thump test may be in order. Good suspects are the fuel pump power relay, fuse, inertia switch & electrical connectors.
With your multimeter on the 20vdc range, at KOEO, check for fuel pump under load voltage drop, to & through the inertia switch, as the computer has the pump run for a couple of seconds to prime the fuel rail for a start, as that'll test most of the pump feed & wiring. There is a TSB out for faulty inertia switches, but I can't remember what years it was for, but the under load voltage drop test across the inertia switch contacts will prove it out. It'll also prove out the fuel pump power relay & wiring & fuse connections from the under hood power distribution fuse box.
When you changed the fuel pump, how did its electrical connector contacts look????

 

The contacts looked fine. Tbh it use to get into spurts where it sorta do what its doing now but it only last a few minutes. I changed fuel pumps and it went away for a while. Then it would do it again sometimes usually in warmer weather. I had to let the truck sit for about a year . Cause the car was alot easier on gas and way more comfortable . And its been doing this pretty much since i started to drive it again. Well tried to drive it lmao. Havent really got more than a couple miles.

 

OK, well let us know how the fuel pressure & flow rate tests go, when its acting out with wimpy power.

 

When it sat this last time for a year, did you have fuel stabilizer in the gas tank & if so, did you add it so it got mixed real good & run the engine long enough to get it distributed throughout the fueling system before it sat for the year?