How sealed is that bolt and cap/snap ring. Did it not have an oring in it?

 

Update
I fired it up (****s and giggles) and low and behold, it got past 2000 rpm! So go figure. My o-rings still didn't seal so I got another set comin... anyone have any ideas as to why though? Also no check engine light...

 

The o-ring on the cap is still dry as is the bolt. Still has an,exhaust leak from hell but I know what that is...

 

Could be that you just pinches the pressure oring.

 

When I take it off (AGAIN!) I will check it again... see how it looks.

 

I might have, wouldn't doubt it lol. I will check tomorrow when I start tearing it down, again.

 

Update as to situation. It has one helluva miss it feels like. Takes forever to start, and last night didn't start at all... on a side note I so have a new tps comin to hopefully help with the no throttle to wide open issue. Any advice here?

 

Well news update again.
I put a wax cube on the manifold to see if any cyls were missing and low and behold the front driver 2 (1 and 3 i'm assuming) are missing... as in the manifold is cold to the touch. Back 2 are good and hot. I think the front most passenger (number 2 cyl) is missing too as it had the same symptoms. I do know that she. I get on it idling, it won't Rev past 1200 rmp at first. But after it sits for a bit and I keep trying it will eventually rev past that and up to 1500 1750 etc etc. Sound like it's time for new injectors or should I try anything else first?

 

I would check and double check the uvch.

 

Also check the wiring harness ends for melted/burned pins. If the harness ends have been replaced at some time, make sure that the wires were soldered on, and not connected together with butt connectors. I was in a hurry and used the butt connectors on 1 harness end, and it lost connection after a period of time, and developed a miss on 2 cylinders. I don't recall how many miles were on it before this happened, but after removing the butt connectors and soldering the wires together all is good. By the way the even cylinders are on the U.S.drivers side, odds on the pas. side.

 

Well the ends look good and don't have any melted/corroded spots... pulled back the red n black tape all looks good...

EDIT: I also pulled the valve cover off to see how that side looks and connectors look fine there as well. Although I will need to do something about the broken clips now dammit.

 

Well I looked it over more as of last night. All,the wiring looked good and connectors (before the clips broke) were good as well no burnt tips or wires or anything. Now far as replacement goes money IS TIGHT. I only plan on replacing the bad ones, new wiring prices (soldered back in and double taped) new valve cover gaskets. Sound like a plan? Or should I upgrade all 8 and be ahead or behind in the long run?

 

Have you removed the loom from the main wiring harness where it drapes over the drivers side valve cover to check for worn/broken wires? It has been reported that the wires will chaff there and short out.

 

I didn't go that far back in the loom itself but I WILL look tonight as I continue to work on it... wish I could get it done for this weekend but I don't see that happening. Gonna try n shed some more light on this, but when I bought it (end of march) it ran good and had no miss. It only started doing this when I replaced the o-rings the first time. Does the cps have anything to possibly do with this?

 

Wires look good from the plug on the fender well to each plug on valve cover, also look good under valve covers. New CPS made no difference... cyl 6 and 8 firing, as are 5 and 7 (the back 4). Just for giggles maybe my single mass flywheel is to blame lol