Hello All. I am a newbie here, and hope you all can help me. I have been a "novice ford truck tinkerer" for a few years now. I was hoping I could get some advice about where to find a replacement master cylinder, line and slave cylinder combo unit... These are the all in one units that also have no bleeder valve... None of my local parts stores have it available (Autozone, Advance, O'Reillys) I can't find it at any online places (rockauto) either. For some odd reason, I have been having trouble locating a salvage yard locally that one either. (Ideally I'd like to find a new one because chances are if I found on at a yard, its probably not much better than what's there now...) That being said, is there anyone who knows where I might find one, or, can the 3 seperate pieces be installed in place of the all-in-one unit??? A guy at the parts place said he thought no, based on what other people in the same situation were saying... I find it very hard to believe that with as many of these square body's made , and still on the road today that there isn't any solution to this... The one on it now I pulled off of a different F series a couple years ago, and it has leaked a little for awhile now, but has finally gone to pot as well... Any help, advice, comments or part places to get one, or a known swap will be greatly appreciated...
Thank you...

 

EDIT: Info N/A, didn't note hydraulic in OP

 

Did you retrofit a hydraulic clutch at some point? A 1981 came from the factory with a mechanical linkage, you're certainly not going to find any such hydraulic parts in any parts catalog listed for a 1981; might look in the 1984 and up listings.

Or is there a typo in your Subject line? Or did somebody else retrofit it at some time?

 

LMC have them.................Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

 

I do know the engine has been changed to a different one, and assumably the trans has well... I'm not sure of the years of those thou... A few years ago we had some trouble out of the (I'm guessing original to the trans) release bearing and in changing that we saw the slave cylinder was leaking, so we took a non leaking on off of an 85 that we had just parked a couple months before. That one has finally started leaking to the point of not working anymore... The clutch we already replaced, along with pressure plate, release and pilot bearings, etc. the clutch.kit was the same one used in the sbf f series trucks under 9k lbs and the SB mustang/capris of the early 80s also...

The master cylinder, line/hose and slave cylinder are factory assembled as one price, and non bleed able as well... There is also no bleeder on this setup... The transmission is the Mazda/kyogo type (I believe) 4sp. I had seen the one piece units listed many times at all the parts stores when I was getting the clutch kit, ur now that I need this, no one seems to have it...

I'll try to get a few pics of it posted shortly...

Thanks for all your advise thus far, this forum is full of great people and I am happy to be a member...

 

Thank you Ken Blythen that is exactly what I was referring to, glad you know so much ford truck trivia... lol... Now my next question is, since I have this horrible idea, impossible to find part, does anyone know if I could use the seperate pieces in place of the one piece???
Thanks...

 

OK, update... Did some digging and such, here is what I found... The truck is an 84, the transmission is an 84 4sp. The engine however is an 81' ... that being said I found the parts (3 seperate pieces) at the parts store, so I'm going to get the three pieces, put them on/together, bleed it and see what happens...
Thanks all...

 

Bleed it is out as good as you can, but don't panic if it still doesn't work that well at first. You usually can't get all the air out of it, but if you can drive it around a little bit, the more you drive it, the more the vibration and moving around on the road will help the air bubbles migrate backwards up the line to the master reservoir. It will do it by itself, just be patient with it.

If it's almost working you can usually coax the tranny into 5th, and then quickly go from gear to gear till you get it to 1st. Then take it for a drive. I have a very steep driveway and by the time I got to the bottom I had 90% of it already. A ride around the block and it was 100%.

 

Thanks everyone for all the advice... I'm pretty sure I figured it out... Its not all one piece as I had previously thought, its seperate pieces that are held in with roll pins as opposed to a threaded line type of scenario that i was looking for...

Now, next question... Is there an easy way to remove the line from the master/slave cylinders, and/or do I need a special tool for this, or can I just use a small punch and hammer???

Thanks again to you all for your help...

 

Small punch and a hammer to knock the pin out.

 

NO 1980/82 came with a hydraulic clutch.

Hydraulic clutch introduced in 1983 F250/350 with 460 and 6.9L diesel only. Introduced in 1984 F150/350 & Bronco with 300 I-6, 302 (F150/250) & 351W

 

OK everyone, I got the clutch master off the firewall, linkage disconnected, swapped hydraulic line to replacement master (original one was plastic, and cracked open while new one is metal, horray!!!), reinstalled and everything tightened up... now I'm ready to bleed it, but I don't see a bleeder like I'm used to seeing (the ones that look like grease zerks kinda), there is hole with the pin that holds the line on, and another tiny tiny pin hole and a hole with a Allen key recessed hole in it... is this what u loosen to bleed it out of the little hole below it, or is this one unbleedable???
Thanks...
I'm going to try to post a few pics if I can figure out how to post them...
Thanks...

 

Put the allen wrench in the hole and loosen it, that's the bleeder. Fill the master up and then get someone to push the pedal down with the allen screw loosened. Fluid will go everywhere, but get them to hold the pedal down till you get it tightened. Then get them to try the clutch pedal a couple of times, and then you can try to bleed it again. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry. Once you get somewhat of a pedal, you can let it sit and keep trying the pedal, or try to take it for a drive. It will have a little bit of air left in it but in time that will work it's way out.

 

Thank you so very much, I will do this in the morning asap... I have messed with a lot of transmissions and such, but this is a new one on me... I guess you really do learn something new everyday... lol...

I'll try this in the morning, and post an update as to how it all goes and works out...

Thanks again for eveybodys help and advice...

 

So I went to bleed the clutch master earlier today and after a couple of pumps there was a "pop" sound and pedal felt funny... Got to looking and discovered the firewall had given way to about 3 or 4 good sized cracks... I seen the plate that can be ordered and I plan on doing so, but do you think if I cleaned it up really well and threw a careful bead of weld on it, and maybe a small over plate welded onto it would work for a little while??? I've got to get it going soon cause its my dads only transportation at the moment... anyone got any ideas for an at least temporary fix???
Thanks a lot once again...