Part number C9AB14313A. Notice how I'm not buying them all up and reselling to fellow Bumpsters. I don't want anybody else to do that either. Not fair. Bumpsters buy them as needed PLEASE.
<table class="table"><thead><tr><th colspan="2">with 1 out of 1 parts</th><th class="partnum"><dl><dd title="C9AB14313A">1</dd> </dl></th></tr></thead><tbody><tr class="odd"><td class="contact-btn"><dl><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">Dealer Contact Info 818-787-7634. <dl><dt> Mustangs Etc Close</dt><dd>818-787-7634 </dd></dl>


</dd></dl></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl><dt> Mustangs Etc </dt><dd>Van Nuys, CA 91411</dd></dl></td><td class="parts"><dl><dd class="available ">3</dd> </dl> </td></tr><tr class="odd"><td class="contact-dealer-btn"></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl class="dealer-info-toolbar"><dd class="email">Email dealer</dd> <!-- this line is diff --> <dd class="favorite">Favorite this dealer</dd> <dd class="distance">387 miClose

</dd> </dl></td><td class="updated-date">Updated Nov 12, 2013</td></tr><tr><td class="contact-btn"><dl><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">Dealer Contact Info</dd><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">812-359-4965. <dl><dt> McDonald Obsolete Parts CoClose</dt><dd>812-359-4965 </dd></dl>


</dd></dl></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl><dt>McDonald Obsolete Parts Co </dt><dd>Rockport, IN 47635</dd></dl></td><td class="parts"><dl><dd class="available ">2</dd> </dl> </td></tr><tr><td class="contact-dealer-btn"></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl class="dealer-info-toolbar"><dd class="email">Email dealer</dd> <!-- this line is diff --> <dd class="favorite">Favorite this dealer</dd> <dd class="distance">1418 miClose

</dd> </dl></td><td class="updated-date">Updated May 22, 2014</td></tr><tr class="odd"><td class="contact-btn"><dl><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">Dealer Contact Info</dd><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">606-787-5293. <dl><dt> Wesley Obsolete Parts Close</dt><dd>(606) 787-5293 </dd></dl>


</dd></dl></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl><dt> Wesley Obsolete Parts </dt><dd>LIBERTY, KY 42539</dd></dl></td><td class="parts"><dl><dd class="available ">2</dd> </dl> </td></tr><tr class="odd"><td class="contact-dealer-btn"></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl class="dealer-info-toolbar"><dd class="email">Email dealer</dd> <!-- this line is diff --> <dd class="favorite">Favorite this dealer</dd> <dd class="distance">1531 miClose

</dd> </dl></td><td class="updated-date">Updated May 01, 2015</td></tr><tr><td class="contact-btn"><dl><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">Dealer Contact Info</dd><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">800-476-9653. <dl><dt> Dennis Carpenter FordClose</dt><dd>704-786-8139 </dd></dl>


</dd></dl></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl><dt>Dennis Carpenter Ford </dt><dd>CONCORD, NC 28027</dd></dl></td><td class="parts"><dl><dd class="available ">3</dd> </dl> </td></tr><tr><td class="contact-dealer-btn"></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl class="dealer-info-toolbar"><dd class="email">Email dealer</dd> <!-- this line is diff --> <dd class="favorite">Favorite this dealer</dd> <dd class="distance">1774 miClose

</dd> </dl></td><td class="updated-date">Updated Mar 13, 2015</td></tr><tr class="odd"><td class="contact-btn"><dl><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">Dealer Contact Info</dd><dd class="contact-dealer-btn">610-929-3683. <dl><dt> Manderbach Ford Close</dt><dd>610-929-3683 </dd></dl>


</dd></dl></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl><dt>Manderbach Ford </dt><dd>Temple , PA 19560</dd></dl></td><td class="parts"><dl><dd class="available ">1</dd> </dl> </td></tr><tr class="odd"><td class="contact-dealer-btn"></td><td class="dealer-info"><dl class="dealer-info-toolbar"><dd class="email">Email dealer</dd> <!-- this line is diff --> <dd class="favorite">Favorite this dealer</dd> <dd class="distance">2029 mi</dd></dl></td></tr></tbody></table>

 

I thought those were prone to poor contact overheating and melting?
IIRC, the Ford warranty fix was to replace the ignition switch and pigtail with the spade style they switched production to.

 

Yep, round pin connector = bad. Spade connector = good.

 

I agree but I know of no pigtail for the better spade switch. This would be better than nothing for the early Bumps. If someone knows of an aftermarket pigtail for the spade switch please post it.

 

This is sort of a double edged sword. The round pin wiring harness connector to the ignition switch is prone to getting loose, drawing high current and and then burning the wires.

The only way to get from a round pin ignition switch wiring harness connector to the spade type is to have to cut the wires off the connector (for the round pin type) and then splice in the connector/wires of the spade type in --and I really hate cutting the wires on the main harness of the truck.

If you have a pre-spade type ignition switch, it's probably best to take the connector loose from the back of the ignition switch (being careful not to break the retainer clips off), and make sure none of the round contact pins are burned or discolored from excessive heat.

Take some CRC electrical contact cleaner (or equivalent), spray it into the connector and the pins on the back of the ignition switch, let both THOROUGHLY dry out before applying some dielectric grease into the harness connector, reinstall the ignition switch and then plug the connector back in.

 

What year did they switch?

 

1970. Before/after ser number G90.001.

 

1968/69 F100/750 / 1970 F100/750 before serial number G90,001 // 1968/69 Galaxie/LTD/Fairlane/Torino/Falcon/Mustang/Thunderbird:

C8AZ-11572-A .. Ignition Switch was defective, shorted out and caught fire. Ford replaced it with the D1AZ-11572-C .. Ignition Switch that originally included a pigtailed harness/plug.

 

I had a switch burn up my wiring in my 72 f250, spade style.
Was planning on replacing it with the pin style cause i thought that was the recommended replacement?
I bought the switch and have been searching for pigtail, so thanks jeffafa
Sorry I'm not sure on the p/n's but i remember the replacement has a sw1054 number

 

The D1AZ-11572-C Ignition Switch (Motorcraft SW-1054), despite its 1971 part number prefix, was not used on 1971's or 1972's.

This was the FoMoCo "campaign" replacement switch that was used on 1968/69 F100/750's & 1970 F100/750's before serial number G90,001.

The original switch (C8AZ-11572-A) was a POS, shorted out and caught fire. See post #8 for additional info

The correct switch for your application is: D0TZ-11572-A (Motorcraft SW-944): 1970 F100/750 from serial number G90,001 & 1971/72 F100/750.

 

AHDR5501 DOES II SYSTEM 05/05/15 20:11:23 (EST)
CUSTOMER: MERCHANDISER REMARKS ONLINE: 001 MIN.
COMMAND: NEXT KEY:

PART #: D1AZ 11572C ENG #: C8AB11572A
PART NAME: SWITCH ASY - IGNITIO DATE OFF B/O: 00/00/00 B/O RANKING:
DATE MERCHANDISER REMARKS
1. IGNITION FEED WIRING PIGTAIL ASSEMBLY PART NUMBER
2. C9AB-14313-A IS NO LONGER INCLUDED - IT MUST NOW BE ORDERED
3. SEPARATELY.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
ENGINEERING PART NUMBERS WITH AN "O" IN THE PREFIX, CHANGE TO ZERO.

 

DOTZ-11572-A flat blade Switch replacement Plugs at Mill Supply Inc. this is there
Part Number 43-511 $5.13
Ph. 800 888-5072

Orich

 

Thanks Rich, I will order one today, just in case my '67 still has the pin type. Hope they have the pigtail too. I'v tried to do a memory search, on my RAM, (random access memory), but my search engine is rusty. Perhaps some Tequila will lubricate it? I'm thinking that the new EZ wiring harness, that I am hauling south, will connect to the flat pin style anyway, but with the dreaded wire cut ordeal. I've ordered a hundred Marine but splices also, so I am prepared.

Baja

 

I replaced my switch with flat blade type switch.

Man before doing it I had the damn hard stating issue that victimized me and could not tract it down. Until rekeying the ign switch was when dropping the switch and see the over heated plug pin contacts.

My OEM round pin replacement switch did not come with a pigtail but it showed one in the info sheet that came with the switch.

I returned to a loco NOS parts supplier an bought the pin pigtail.
I put it in and instead of keep cranking with it almost starting it fired right up.
I thought to myself SOB so that's what been giving me hard starting for a good number of yrs.

So, I found a good flat blade plug at PnP and bough a new oem flat blade switch and changed it to the new switch when, I installed the HEI dizzy and ran the #10 dizzy power wire right off the new switch plug flat blade plug.

Russ man that funky round pin switch about drove me nuts trying to figure out my hard starting of the first time for that day. Once it was started then it would start so so the rest of the day.

Orich

 

Thanks buddy, once again. So far, I have not had any problems, (knocking on wood now), with my '67 switch. When I swapped my cab, to the restored '72 chassis, I tried to use the '72 switch, from the donor truck, and found that it was fubar. So, I used the dreaded "Cut & splice" method, and put the old '67 switch back in. Worked like a charm, and was still working when I parked in in March.

After reading all these helpful hints, and buying a new EZ wiring harness, I will take a new flat pin switch with me, as well as a pigtail, and splice the EZ to it. Hopefully, I will avoid any of the issues that seem to plague the round pin switches. I suppose that this means that I will have to use a new key, and it won't match my doors... Agggggh. Two steps forward, and one back. Perhaps, there is a way to remove the tumbler, and switch it, and my old keys, to the new flat pin switch??

Baja

"A smart man solves problems, but a Genius, avoids them"
Albert I.