I know you guys might get this a lot but I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out
Thanks in advance

 

You might get some weird sag under load. Do '12 F250s have a 4" block, or did that start in 14? What's the goal/point behind removing, lowering the truck, adding lift springs?

In the past the main issue was if you have a turnover gooseneck ball, the ball can contact the axle housing if there's no spacer.

 

Lowering the truck, it has a 2" i believe i would have to measure, and I only haul tongue pull no gooseneck or 5th wheel

 

Here's my 99 f350 4x4 with the factory 3.75" lift block removed. @ss end sits slightly below level.

Handles much better without that ignorant axle wrapping, wheel hoping, turd blocks in there.

 

So I can just remove the stock blocks and put the leaf on the axle and get new u bolts and no problems?

 

That's how I'm running it, almost complete eliminates wheel hop and axle wrap.

 

Any suggestions on 11 or newer trucks? I see you can do it on the older 08 back trucks but I just want to make sure im not going to hurt anything with the newer version, also where do you guys buy the shorter u bolts at? Thanks for the info guys

 

11 and newer have a softer rear spring pack that sags worse than in the past, so just make sure you aren't going to end up nose-high after you pull them out. Measure the distance between the bump stops and axle pads to make sure you won't be riding on the stops all the time. If it's a diesel make sure the exhaust is going to clear everywhere and you won't contact the DEF torpedo anywhere.

To get u-bolts, I went to the parts counter at my dealer. I was going to F350 blocks, so I had him pull the parts diagram from an F350 with camper package and got the P/N for the correct length bolts. They wanted double for the bolts than an online Ford dealer, so I ordered and had them delivered. To get the shorter ones for no blocks in a '12, you might have to have them run a 2wd F250, I'm not 100% what/if anything came with no suspension spacers at all after they flipped the u-bolts over on the axles.

Or if you aren't OEM ****-retentive like me you could just measure the original bolts and order a set that's 2 inches shorter. Pretty much any suspension shop should be able to get your a non-specific set.


Page 80 shows you all the rear spring ratings:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...pickups_sb.pdf

 

You could do all that, or you could grab a tape measure and simple measure the bolts your require.

To remove the 3.75" lift block I required a 5/8" fine thread ubolts that was 4-1/16"IDx10.5 long. I ordered 4 of the U bolts in grade 8 of the internet and had the truck leveled a few days later.

 

My truck right now is about an 1" rake and I want a little bit of squat just the cali look I guess I'll try it out and see if it will contact anything

 

Take some pictures of the lift block and post them. Removing a block isn't year specific, I could do the same thing to a 1950 dodge powerwagon.

Blocks in between the springs and axle are LITERALLY the worst thing Imaginable. The only reason ford can get away with it is because of how burly the springs are, if you had a single soft monoleaf you would Instantly feel the axle wrap as you romped on the throttle.

Your factory spring will actually last longer without the blocks adding axle wrap fatigue.

From a suspension design stand point, spring under is actually the best.

 

You don't have to take my word for it, simply Google "lift blocks and axle wrap" and begin reading.

 

I know all about it well thanks guys I think im gonna tackle it and see what happens I'll keep you updated to what happens