I picked up this truck about a year ago now. 1978 F250, 400, NP435, NP205, 4WD, unknown mileage. It starts and runs good, but leaks almost everything. I have finally started doing some work on it, so I am going to use this thread to document everything I am doing.

Here she is as of right now.


This past Sunday, I replaced all 4 shocks, spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I also resealed both diffs and put in fresh gear oil. And I replaced the starter with a mini starter.

This will be a SLOW process, but parts are starting to roll in. I have everything I need to seal up the engine, transmission, and t-case.

Parts that I am waiting on:
H4 headlight conversion
38 gallon tank with in tank electric fuel pump (I have the tank already, need the other parts)
fuel regulator with bypass
new fuel lines, send and return
new window and door weatherstripping (I have these, just need to install them)
Fuel pump block off plate for mechanical pump
new grill (it doesn't have one at all right now)
clutch release rod boot is missing
redhead steering gear
Atlas 4" lift springs (or I may go with a sky shackle reversal and smaller springs in the rear, thoughts?)
35" BFG All Terrains
and eventually a complete new wiring harness

And I'm waiting on the parts to convert my Lincoln 215XT to use .030 wire so I can do the gas tank work.

Once all of that is done, then it will be time for paint and body work, but as of right now this is a work truck, it gets used to haul scrap steel around and the random Home Depot runs.

 

Sounds like a plan. I also run a '78 F250 4wd. Fun to drive and works hard when needed and does. Only comment is on the lift if you are hauling stuff lower is easier to load/unload. I like mine with stock replacement springs and slightly larger tires (245/75/16~=old 9.50x16.5"). Each to his own.

 

Welcome to FTE, nice truck and at least you have a plan and that is the best way to get it done. Reliability to start, stop and steer is #1.

Here is a link to a thread that discusses the issues with removing the trans and xfer case, you might pull the motor 1st and then the trans, and leave that heavy xfer case in there if you can.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...250-build.html

Camper Special badge on the fender? Also have you been here for some parts diagrams?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html

 

Looks like this will be a cool thread to watch, good luch

 

It doesn't haul stuff often, maybe once a month, and wont be a hauler permanently. The lift is much farther down the road, realistically probably 2 years.

Thanks!! Gonna read through that first thread today. I have been to the second one, TONS of knowledge in there. Thanks for putting it together.

And yes that is a camper special badge on the fender, but it is NOT a camper special. I wish it had the front 60 though. Keeping an eye out to find one local that I can swap in.


Thanks!!


I don't suppose anyone has any insight into changing the oil pan gasket? Instructions from the manual are to raise the engine up off the chassis brackets. That seems like a LOT of extra work to me. It looks like there is enough room to drop the oil pan if the front axle is at full droop..

 

I'm subscribing! You're going through a lot of the same upgrades and projects I've gone through for last 8 months! This forum is a great resource!

 

Subscribing as well.

 

Got a little more work done this morning. I wasn't kidding when I said this is going to be SLOW. Between working 40+ hours a week, 3 college courses, family time, and currently remodeling my Master Bathroom, time is scarce.

But anyways, I got my new shifter ***** installed.





The clutch rod boot was missing, so I installed one. Eventually Ill get rid of that crappy vinyl flooring as well.



Then I started in on the H4 headlight conversion with new harness. This it the H4 kit and wiring harness kit from Jeff's BroncoGraveyard



This is where I mounted the relays.



Here is a comparison of the stock and an H4 headlight.


Here is one of the new H4 headlights installed.



And now thats it for the day. Spending the rest of the day working on the master bathroom.

 

That's the same Chinese relay harness sold by LMC Truck... also sold by JBG eh? FYI....They use non-typical relays. Meaning, the usual Bosch relays don't work on them if they ever need to be replaced. No biggee... cut and splice.

The H4 conversion will require cutting out the back of the headlight buckets cuz that honkin' gasket/lamp seal on the back of the lamp is humongous. I'll be pleasantly surprised of they don't.

I went with the integral turn signal type so I can use them as DRLs.

 

I did not have to cut it out. Instead I held the rubber boot in place behind the light as I installed it, then made sure to press it on tight. It fits, but just barely. And yes I saw the relays are junk, if when its time to replace them, Ill splice in a regular relay harness. I have a few sitting in the toolbox.

 

Didn't get anything done this weekend. The weather put a damper on it. Didn't get any thing done on my bathroom remodel either.

Nothing like having a Flood Warning, Tornado Warning, and Winter Weather Warning all in the same day.

 

I just ordered a clutch rod boot because mine was gone too. What was the easiest way that you found to get it on? Did you disconnect the rod inside the truck or from underneath?

That may sound like a dumb question, but I haven't even looked at my options yet, I've got bigger issues.

 

I disconnected the rod inside the truck. Then pushed the rod boot down into place. A little dish soap made it go right into place. I then reconnected the rod inside. Just to find the clutch didn't work. Had to get underneath and line things back up properly and then it was back to normal.

 

I looked today and see how you disconnect the rod inside. You lost me with "Just to find the clutch didn't work" though, why didn't reconnecting it inside the truck work?

 

The rod that runs through the floor, is connected to another rod under the truck, that pushes against the plate that activates the clutch. The rod under the truck wasn't against the flat plate anymore. It's hard to explain. But if you get under the truck and look where the rod comes through the floor and what it does it should all make sense.