Never had to replace a motor. Those things hardly ever get used so long lifespan. Only time I have had to replace the gearbox is when one of the plastic ***** that align the motor with the leg broke off. The gearbox,motor all flop around like mad since they cheapened the design.

Couple of pointers. Be sure to run the inner leg up all the way before you try to pull the leg or you may have to jack it to the sky to get clearance.

Sometime the saddle bolts are installed before the front wall is put on in which case you can not pull the saddle bolt out to free the leg. In those cases, I use an angle grinder to cut the bolt and then replace it the opposite direction so you can slide it in and put the nut between the saddle and the front wall.

Pay attention when you take the bevel gears out so you put the one turned by the motor on the correct end of the horizontal shaft. You will see what I mean when you see it. If you put it one the wrong end of the shaft, it will all go together fine, but when you run the motor one leg will go up when the other one goes down. (Not that I have ever made that mistake. )

When putting it back in, after you have it strapped in, run the inner legs down so you have the same amount showing before you hook the legs together with the square tube. That way when they are retracted they don't look goofy i.e.one all the way up and one hanging partially down.

I will be surprised if you have much wear on anything except the bevel gear/gears. Before Lippert bought eveyone, the legs used to be much heavier.

Have fun,

Steve

 

Thanks for those tips Steve!!!!

 

Fixed the broken gear reduction unit and serviced it with white lithium grease.
Found the cross shaft from the motor to the other landing gear was about ripped apart at the bolt that locks it to the transmission shaft. I'll cut the end off and re-drill.. It's an expanding shaft so...
Then I spent the next couple hours getting the behemoth jacked up and put jack stands under the front so I could pull the landing gear legs out.. One of the gear (right side) does not move when you turn the gears so I suspect the lead screw or driven gear that threads onto it is stripped..
The other gear was turning very stiff even with no weight on it. I'll be taking pics as I pull it all apart..
Since my owner's manual is worthless for anything other than the floor of a bird cage, I may just start a Ragen Stryker 4005 online manual...





The screwdriver in the picture below is pointing to the MISSING BOSS that keeps the gear reduction transmission aligned on the landing gear leg








The picture below shows the replacement boss made of a 1/4-20 pan-head screw, three nuts and a lock-washer.. I have to think it is far better now than the original was. It fir perfectly when I put it into position. I think it will be fine now. The gears were all in great shape.
Oddly, this housing is not metal but a hard resin/plastic..

 

Well - I Went back out after dinner and tore into the leg that was inoperative.. Turns out that it had sheared the drive pin that intersects the bottom side of the driven gear (the one that goes on the vertical shaft/lead screw. It also took a small chunk out of the gear. You can see the bent/sheared pin on the left, the gear on the right is the screwed up one.. I've already sourced the replacement gears and pins (thanks to Steve). The pin that sheared was not a roll pin, it was a solid, very hard, pin...
The lead screw was fine - I ran it all the way out and, cleaned it and hit it with more lubriplate..

 

great detail there. I bet once you get it together it will work nicely.

 

Looks like you are doing a great job! I don't think I have ever had one shear that pin. Usually the teeth are chewed up.

Steve

 

Thanks guys...

Being someone who is pretty concerned with preventative maintenance, I've been looking at ways to maintain the gear. There really are none that I can figure out to this point. The bevel gear chamber can have a bunch of grease slathered in there and I plan on doing that, but there's no way to grease the lead screw that does the lion's share of the work.

I figure that I am the one that broke it when I last raised the gear. There are no limit switches that shut the motor off when you hit either the top or the bottom. The one that was broken was jammed all the way in the UP position. I will be painting stripes on the legs to tell me when to stop raising/lowering the gear..

 

Happy to see this thread as I too am 'blessed' with a 5er with a Lippert chassis and landing gear.

Couple of things - on the now gone Titanium with an Atwood LG, they had wrapped some red tape around the outer leg to show the upper limit of travel. I've done the same on the new one.

That gear box looks similar (that Titanium had two with individual drive motors which I miss) if not identical to the Atwood - hmmmmm. Atwood supplied a solid pin in their gear rebuild kit to lock it in place. I decided that after looking at the strength charts on the McMaster-Carr web site that a spring (roll) pin was not only stronger but a heckuva lot easier to install then that one with the interrupted center lock.

Randy - a nice job. I'm going to book mark this thread separately from the forum site for when I have the 'pleasure'.

 

One thing that really tears up the gears whether landing or slide is running it against the stop. The legs used to come with a stripe and if yours does not have one, painting one on is an excellent idea.

The worm gear very seldom gives trouble, the bevel gears often.

I wonder if hydraulic landing gear might not be a better idea for these gigantic toy haulers you guys are dragging around?

 

As near as I can tell it is all interchangeable. Lippert just buys manufacturers. They often don't change much. All the legs now are just 29 1/2". I haven't seen anything else for a while. You used to have to measure the leg and send a completed measurement chart into the distributor before they will send a leg.

 

Does Lippert own Atwood now? They seem to own about everything else including Dexter and now AL-KO axles, purch. this year

 

I think last time I needed something Atwood, that is where I got it, but that was just landing gear. When I pull up my parts catalog, the Lippert stuff looks exactly like the Atwood.

Dometic bought Atwood a few months ago, but my Dometic catalog does not include Atwood stuff so I can't see if it is still there. I know when I ordered legs, I just ordered Lippert, but I guess it is best to check on a case by case basis.

 

Mine is a lippert as well. But to complicate things I have the auto leveling system.


I can just drop the fronts or all four with a touch of the button.


I pray I don't have any issues for a long time to come.

 

Update - I had ordered the landing gear repair kit from Lippert last Sunday on their website and got an order confirmation email. Yesterday (Friday) afternoon, I still haven't seen the parts so I sent them an email telling them that I was pretty well stick with a disabled trailer and hoped that the had shipped the parts...
Within an hour or so, I get an automated email with a tracking number - but the tracking number did not work.
I called and talked with a nice gal named Mary. Long story short, they had been out of stock until that morning and it was being shipped out that day and just hadn't been in the UPS system long enough to register..
I am a little steamed, but what can I do.. Also - they charged $15 to ship a handful of parts UPS-Ground...
So here Goliath sits. Resting on Jack stands and I am also carrying a bunch of weight on the steel stabilizer pin jack. I really don't trust this system at all so I will be reinstalling the freshly serviced leg today and just hope and pray that the lightweight framework that the jackstands are under does not fold up and drop the trailer..

 

got any cement blocks you can put under the frame? That is what I would do.