What I have done in the past, is completely disassemble the carb take all the parts I have (gaskets and what nots) in a huge Ziploc bag, have them bring me every 2100 and 2150 kit they have and look at them (they are all sealed on the inside) but can be looked at and compared one you pull back the sleeve, when I found one with the most critical matching parts (float, needles, etc), I got it. Yes that appears to be the correct carb. The one thing that made the 2100s/and 2150s so desirable was the ability to adapt them to many different engines with their jets and venture sizes stamped on the side. For example the 258 I6 in my CJ7 (before it died and I installed a V8) worked well when I swapped in a 2100 with a 1.08 venturi, but that same 1.08 was way to small for a 351, I believe for the 351 (research to verify) you'll need a 1.21

 

Also key reminder! You would likely find a cheaper 2100, vs a 2150. If I remember correctly from running around in your lovely swamps in the Army so many moons ago you don't need a high altitude carb for your application.

 

The achilles heel with the 2100 series is excessive wear in the throttle shaft, they can be sleeved but unless you have this capability make sure you have a good core before rebuilding, vacuum leaks result otherwise.

Venturi size definitely matters, it's actually better to err on the smaller size carb, It is stamped on the carb, e.g. 1.08, 1.12 ; Too big a carb it will never idle or run right and is a classic mistake. Check the shop manual for the OEM Venturi size and decide what your application will be. A hotter cam, higher compression, headers etc. means a bigger carb will work: The idea is an optimized air flow velocity to atomize fuel effectively for a given engine CFM and provide crisp throttle response and good driveability and economy.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CARBURETOR-2100-2-BARREL-F100-F250-F350-MUSTANG-ENGN-289-302-351-JEEP-360-/331250599702?hash=item4d20130716&vxp=mtr

Quite true on the throttle shaft wear, if there is play in the two circled (yellow) areas on this pic, I would worry about rebuilding yours, the vacuum leak there will never get you running right, but the one on the link is located there in Florida

 

I am definitely learning a lot from your post! Thank you!
That is a great idea and one I will have to do here soon once I get all the parts dismantled! Ok I will check out the 1.21!

 

Not sure what this is? Ashes?

 

Quite true on the throttle shaft wear, if there is play in the two circled (yellow) areas on this pic, I would worry about rebuilding yours, the vacuum leak there will never get you running right, but the one on the link is located there in Florida[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the photo; I will go check it out. That is a decent price!

 

Carbon build up from 30 years of manifold supplied heat used to operate the choke. Maybe another reason to go to an "updated" electric choke 2100 and cap off the old junk. Simple fix, less variable and more reliable system

 

However it can easily (and cheaply converted) to electric choke

 

There is about 2 hairs width of play in the throttle shaft.. :/

 

How could I do that? The previous owner clipped the wiring harness.. I guess he was trying to do his own thing.. ha In a way I guess its not incredibly bad because I can start over, but it is a mess..

 

I would take a needle (red) straw on a can of carb cleaner, turn the carb on its side (linkage side up) spray a small amount on the top of the throttle shaft, if you see the liquid enter into the body of the carb on the shaft, (well to put it like this, if liquid will get in there, air will sure get in there and screw things up)


If it enters the body of the carb, might be time for an "upgrade" At least that is what I used to tell my wife anytime something broke on my CJ7

 

To rerun the choke wires, you just need a "keyed" hot (key is on and there is 12V at the wire) and a ground

 

haha!

I think its done

Have you seen this cheaper anywhere else? I might just go ahead and upgrade to something prettier and conveniently functional.. ha

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CARBURETOR-2100-2-BARREL-F100-F250-F350-MUSTANG-ENGN-289-302-351-JEEP-360-/331250599702?hash=item4d20130716&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

 

The all-electric chokes suck IMO; they cool off before the engine does, which means the choke will come nack on after the engine has sat for half an hour (maybe while your inside a store shopping or something) when it doesn't really need to as the engine is already warm!

The dual-heat variant - where heated *air* flows around the exhaust - combined with the electric *assist* is the best option in my mind.

Also, there are so many different rebuild kits available because there were so many different configurations put out by the factory. It's really best to use the factory ID tag originally located on the carb to get a directly-applicable rebuild kit (but changes in other engine characteristics may make different carb parts desirable).