With my old 2.9 I only had 9/10psi oil psi at 1000rpm hot, with 15-40w and with a half a QT ofLucas oil stabilizer, The previous owner was horrible with maintenance and repairs it's literally been 98% of the needed repairs to the truck to keep it running since I've got it.... Still the best 500$'s I've spent on a truck.... And 500$'s on a BII that had driveshaft and severe rust issues with low miles with a lot of money spent on it before they figured out it was a lost cause... The BII's motor still had honing marks on the cylinder walls... 3000 miles in my Ranger and no oil loss and the oil still looks like you dumped it in and started the engine and checked it. I bought the BII only for the rear axle years ago and is been sitting in the Weedpatch until I decided to put the engine in my Ranger.

 

what grade oil and brand oil filter are you using?

 

Kemical, I'm using 15W40 and a QT of Lucas oil additive with a Fram filter.

 

If your using a Delo or Rottela 15w40 you shouldn't need the oil additive. Also get rid of that Fram filter, they are garbage. run Wix, Purolator or a motorcraft filter.

 

I am running Rottela so I'll give it a shot with out the additive next oil change and see how it does. I've also read alot of negative things about the fram filters lately so I'll renew that with something else also.


thanks

 

I would suggest running straight 30W, my 1990 302 with 169,000 runs very well with it. It has reduced oil consumption, which was my main reason for using it. I don't have exact readings on the oil pressure but the stock gauge reads higher at operating temperature than when using a lower viscosity oil.

 

Part of the reason for an oil pressure drop is due to the expansion of the metal parts which increases the clearances, thus the oil has an easier time flowing out into the crankcase. Higher viscosity, even at operating temperatures, reduces the flow out into the crankcase.