Are their really dual tanks on this truck, I wasnt aware of that on a short bed, let alone a flare side?

 

Thanks for the responses guys- fortunately, my truck no longer has a check engine light. There are some concerns I'm having though. My engine seems to be making a very light clicking sound when idling. I heard it today when I opened up the hood and cranked the car. After looking up the problem it seems like it's knocking, but in all the videos I looked up my car wasn't nearly as bad (and also doesn't make noise at any speed past idle). I'm thinking I need to replace the intake air valve. I'm also getting an oil change tomorrow.

There is a slight shake every 10 or so seconds when I idle. Nothing serious but just not used to it.

When I put the car in drive or reverse (more so happens in drive) there is a little jerk in the truck.

Also, I noticed today that my overdrive has been on the whole time(?). it now shows a lit orange "OFF" light on the gearshift after "Overdrive"

Any thoughts? Sorry for all the questions! Y'all are really helpful though and I greatly appreciate the help

 

OK the the overdrive thing you want on while driving when towing something you want it off.

The clicking noise may be low on oil get the oil change and see what happens.

The jerking thing happens to my F150 as well this could be due to the transmission and the not so good oil that's in it though im not exactly sure.

The slight shaking mine does it as well I can't for the life of me find out why. I've already changed then motor mounts but still get a very slight shake at idle. In drive with the brake held down no shake.

 

That makes me feel a lot better. Thanks so much zemus, you're the man. I'll keep ya updated on the truck/ get some pics. Gettin oil changed tomorrow, hoses replaced, transmission and brakes flushed and filled and back line replaced tues. Wednesday I'm taking it to get all shackles and hangers replaced (for only $350, which seems Amazing compared to other quotes). Just took it to the car wash and got it vacuumed out. I'll get pics up here soon

 

About the transmission flush...I hear that with truck with a lot of miles you should have the oil changed and not flushed what i mean is that you want them to drain all the fluid from the trans and torque converter by hand NOT with a flush machine. 9 times out of 10 if you flush a high mileage transmission it will end up killing it with in a short time after word. What I've heard happens is that the debris/deposits break loose and get carried over to more sensitive areas and bam your looking into but a remand/rebuilt transmission.

*Please note that I've only read about this happening. I've seen it on a few forums this forum as well. I recently read something about this here on the forum and they DO NOT recommend flushing the transmission if I find the post Ill send you the link.

Any transmission guys here wanna chime in on this subject by all means I'm just trying to help the guy out if this is all BS please chime in.

 

Do NOT flush the trans

 

yes.........

 

Yup, filter and fluid change only, no flush.

 

So I got coolant flushed and filled and oil changed. I took it this morning to the local auto shop to get back break lines fixed and the guy is saying all these other things that are issues, primarily having to do with rust. He said the shackles(which I am already getting replaced), but he went on to say how the frame is super rusty, the oil pan, something under the radiator fluid. He said if he were me he'd just cut his losses and repost it on Craigslist. It's just ridiculous since I've taken it two other places (first one before I bought the car) and they said nothing about all the other issues. I don't know who to trust when it comes to repair shops..

 

Post pictures of the frame. Some people can be a-holes or ignorant. The guys I bring mine to for stuff I don't have time/space for keep telling me to sell my truck because I am putting money into it twice a year or whatever.

The radiator support on yours probably is rusty/rotted. Replace it at some point but unless the frame is awful, just do stuff as you can.

What're ya gonna do, spend $6,000-$7,000 on 2004-6 truck which is probably gonna need all that stuff too?

You have no monthly payment right? So what if you have to spend some money along the way? My truck is getting to the point where it's mostly new parts!

 

Hey EBrack don't get discouraged you knew you were going to throw some money into this truck. What you should do is what broncoderek said shoot us some pics of everything you can underneath. You may be throwing money away getting stuff fixed that might not even need fixing give some pics we will tell you what to do.

 

I picked up the truck. I feel like the mechanic was overselling me on how bad the truck is. There's no cracks or holes in the rust.. But here's pics. I live in Ohio so=salty roads

 

To be honest I see some heavy rust spots but nothing that pops out DANGER DANGER. Me personally I would make a day or two taking a small air powered buffer and a light metal sanding pad that removes heavy grime/debris only and go to town then spray some black Rustolium all over. I say it looks fine.

 

The frame rails themselves are fine. The hangers you're already replacing and anything else that looks deeper than surface rust can be replaced if you determine it's more than superficial.

One step at a time (and you can drive it while you're working on it).

 

Thats not so bad...Here's a few of mine.