Considering removing 2.9L engine
#1
Considering removing 2.9L engine
I'm thinking of removing the engine, basically just to drill & re-tap the exhaust manifold bolts and replace the oil pan gasket & rear main seal, but wanted to check in first with those of you who know more than me (that's most of you) to make sure there isn't something I'm missing.
Quick back story: I removed the transmission and had it rebuilt. While it's out I had planned to raise the motor a few inches to replace the badly leaking oil pan gasket. I started with the exhaust manifold/Y-pipe bolts and they are rusted into the exhaust manifold and will need to be cut off (1 has broken off) so I'll need to remove the manifolds to drill/re-tap them. The 2.9's manifold/engine bolts are known to snap so I began with 1, slowly easing it back and forth along with lots of break-away, and sure enough it broke off in the head. I hadn't been planning to remove the engine but it seems like that's where this is headed.
My experience: I've removed and rebuilt a few motorcycle engines but never one from a vehicle. In theory I feel fairly confident I can do this but, like I said, I want to make sure there isn't something I'm missing. It looks like the a/c compressor can be removed and just flopped onto the blower motor (lines attached) so hopefully I won't need to disrupt it any more than that. Everything else I've already had off the engine at one time or another.
Any insights would be very much appreciated.
Josh
Quick back story: I removed the transmission and had it rebuilt. While it's out I had planned to raise the motor a few inches to replace the badly leaking oil pan gasket. I started with the exhaust manifold/Y-pipe bolts and they are rusted into the exhaust manifold and will need to be cut off (1 has broken off) so I'll need to remove the manifolds to drill/re-tap them. The 2.9's manifold/engine bolts are known to snap so I began with 1, slowly easing it back and forth along with lots of break-away, and sure enough it broke off in the head. I hadn't been planning to remove the engine but it seems like that's where this is headed.
My experience: I've removed and rebuilt a few motorcycle engines but never one from a vehicle. In theory I feel fairly confident I can do this but, like I said, I want to make sure there isn't something I'm missing. It looks like the a/c compressor can be removed and just flopped onto the blower motor (lines attached) so hopefully I won't need to disrupt it any more than that. Everything else I've already had off the engine at one time or another.
Any insights would be very much appreciated.
Josh
#5
Nicely done. That Bronco is one fine machine.
The one thing that has been a deterrent to doing anything like this is that the Ford factory manuals say you have to break open the air conditioning and remove the compressor which means evacuating the system and then having to refill once the engine is back in. I'm not tooled up for that. I was wondering if you could leave it connected and flop it off to the side. I was able to do that on my Accord when I removed and replaced the engine. It sounds like you were able to do it without breaking open the system. Do you know if the Ford manuals say that you have to take apart the A/C to get the engine out for your Bronco? I've found a number of things wrong with the factory service manual and some errors (like fan clutch nut thread direction) haven't been corrected even after 10 years.
The one thing that has been a deterrent to doing anything like this is that the Ford factory manuals say you have to break open the air conditioning and remove the compressor which means evacuating the system and then having to refill once the engine is back in. I'm not tooled up for that. I was wondering if you could leave it connected and flop it off to the side. I was able to do that on my Accord when I removed and replaced the engine. It sounds like you were able to do it without breaking open the system. Do you know if the Ford manuals say that you have to take apart the A/C to get the engine out for your Bronco? I've found a number of things wrong with the factory service manual and some errors (like fan clutch nut thread direction) haven't been corrected even after 10 years.
#6
Mike, Yeah, luckily I was able to keep the AC system intact and just flop the compressor over to the passenger side. I thoroughly enjoy expanding my abilities but try to keep it to one thing at a time when I can help it. Learning AC can wait for another day. I'm fairly certain Ford would say to break open the AC system but will check the manual tonight and edit this post if not. (Edit: Remove the A/C compressor and power steering and position out of way, if so equipped.)
That fan clutch nut always puzzles me until I remember the threads are backwards.
Thank you both for the comments on the overall truck! A lot of time and effort have gone into making the Bronco look like it does so it's nice to hear when somebody notices.
Josh
That fan clutch nut always puzzles me until I remember the threads are backwards.
Thank you both for the comments on the overall truck! A lot of time and effort have gone into making the Bronco look like it does so it's nice to hear when somebody notices.
Josh
#7
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#11
The 2.9 doesn't seem to have much oomph down low, but it's a very willing engine and is very fun to drive and has lots of power once you get going.
#12
I have never had a 4.0, but I have a 2.9 in my 86 ranger with the 5 speed and a 3.73 gear. I don't know why anyone would want to put a 302 in this thing. This engine is perfect, plenty of power and good fuel mileage also. It's hard for me to take off from a stoplight when the road is wet, it wants to spin too easily.
The 2.9 doesn't seem to have much oomph down low, but it's a very willing engine and is very fun to drive and has lots of power once you get going.
The 2.9 doesn't seem to have much oomph down low, but it's a very willing engine and is very fun to drive and has lots of power once you get going.
#13
#14
Are you concerned about the o-rings, the fuel line between the pressure regulator, or the fitting? Those should all be readily available at the local auto parts store. Most likely, you'll have to use hose clamps if you replace the hose. I haven't seen high pressure fuel line like that in the parts stores.
From my experience, Napa seems to have more detail parts but you should be able to find this stuff on line if you don't have to gawk at and fondle the parts in person before you buy them.
From my experience, Napa seems to have more detail parts but you should be able to find this stuff on line if you don't have to gawk at and fondle the parts in person before you buy them.
#15