Overview of 4wd
#1
Overview of 4wd
I was reading the manual (yes, I am impatiently waiting for the truck to be built and come in), and was reading the section regarding 4wd, ESOF, 4h and 4l. Then I did some searching on the forum to get a better understanding of what exactly is involved with 4wd, and found a couple of very informative threads.
Is the following summarization valid to make?
Is the following summarization valid to make?
- 4wd systems consist of a different transmission compared to a 2wd, that has an additional output in the (front, side, bottom)(?).
- The front tranny output goes into a transfer case.
- The transfer case can be confused for a differential, because it has the same general shape, but internally it is not capable of letting either wheel have differing speeds like a standard differential, which is essential for your standard road conditions, like making a turn.
- The transfer case generally has two internal gears: high and low.
- The transfer case may or may not be able to shift between high and low without moving slowly.
- The transfer case can be confused for a differential, because it has the same general shape, but internally it is not capable of letting either wheel have differing speeds like a standard differential, which is essential for your standard road conditions, like making a turn.
- From the transfer case, power goes out to the hubs
- Hubs are a coupling between your wheels and the transfer case
- Their primary use is to disconnect or reconnect power from the wheels to the transfer case
- You really only want your hubs locked if you NEED 4wd, as it will cause both of your front wheels to be locked together, and they must match each other's speeds.
- This would be really crappy for making turns, and in 2wd, having them locked provides you no benefits.
- You really only want your hubs locked if you NEED 4wd, as it will cause both of your front wheels to be locked together, and they must match each other's speeds.
- Ford Super Duty hubs are either automatic or manual
- Manual hubs require the driver to exit the vehicle, and physically turn the hub to lock or unlock it.
- You may have to rock the vehicle, or move it backward slightly to successfully be able to lock the hubs by hand.
- You may have to rock the vehicle, or move it backward slightly to successfully be able to lock the hubs by hand.
- Automatic hubs lock and unlock via vacuum, and do not require the driver to exit the vehicle to lock & unlock
- Being able to lock and unlock from the interior of the vehicle allows you to be driving when the lock/unlock operation occurs, making it a little more painless.
- Locking the hubs will not work automatically if the vehicle is already stuck, you will still have to exit the vehicle.
- Automatic hubs still retain the ability to be manually locked. However, depending on why you need to manually lock them, you run a risk of not being able to unlock them.
- Being able to lock and unlock from the interior of the vehicle allows you to be driving when the lock/unlock operation occurs, making it a little more painless.
- Manual hubs require the driver to exit the vehicle, and physically turn the hub to lock or unlock it.
- Hubs are a coupling between your wheels and the transfer case
- Super duties can be ordered with either Electronic Shift on the Fly or Manual Shift on the Fly, depending on the model and packages ordered.
- Electronic Shift on the Fly (ESOF)
- Primary control is through a **** on the dash containing locations for 2H, 4H, 4L
- 2H (two wheel high): Standard mode for driving on the road. Putting it in this mode tells the transmission to stop sending power out the front, to the transfer case.
- 4 wheel drive modes
- Instruct the transmission to send power to the transfer case
- Comes with automatic hubs
- Changes the vacuum level going to each of the front hubs, causing them to lock, and each wheel will want to go the same speed.
- 4H (four wheel high)
- You can attain higher speeds in this mode (perhaps in theory, as high as you can go in 2wd, although by definition if you have limited traction, you probably aren't going to this fast).
- Since you are changing gears in the transfer case, you can shift into 4H at a higher speed.
- You can attain higher speeds in this mode (perhaps in theory, as high as you can go in 2wd, although by definition if you have limited traction, you probably aren't going to this fast).
- 4L (four wheel low)
- This instructs an electric motor in the transfer case to switch gears, lowering your overall top speed, but increasing your torque, is good for going up or down hills, or while pulling a load.
- Unless you have a specific need for 4L, there is no point in using it.
- Can take extra time to shift, and may require you to drive slowly for a bit, depending on if the teeth mesh properly.
- Ideally you would be driving from 1-5mph during this switch.
- This instructs an electric motor in the transfer case to switch gears, lowering your overall top speed, but increasing your torque, is good for going up or down hills, or while pulling a load.
- Instruct the transmission to send power to the transfer case
- Primary control is through a **** on the dash containing locations for 2H, 4H, 4L
- Manual Shift on the Fly
- Most of the properties of the ESOF apply
- Instead of a **** on the dash, you have a shift lever in the cab of the vehicle.
- The shift lever can be in 2H, 4H, 4L, and Neutral
- Neutral completely disconnects the transmission from the front transfer case, and the rear differential. This is really nice in case you need to be towed.
- There is no electric motor that shifts gears in the transfer case.
- The shift lever can be in 2H, 4H, 4L, and Neutral
- Comes with manual hubs.
- Not available on the Lariat package and above?
- Most of the properties of the ESOF apply
- Pros and Cons
- Manual hubs
- Generally considered more stout. If much of your time is spent requiring 4wd, you might consider manual hubs.
- Because they require you to exit the vehicle, they are much less convenient.
- Can be locked even if you are already stuck (because you can get out and manually lock them).
- Generally considered more stout. If much of your time is spent requiring 4wd, you might consider manual hubs.
- Automatic hubs
- Are considered far more convenient than manual hubs for the vast majority of drivers, since you don't have to exit the vehicle to lock them.
- Automatic locking and unlocking will not work if you are already stuck. You must shift to 4wd before being stuck, else you may be forced to exit the vehicle to lock your hubs.
- Are considered far more convenient than manual hubs for the vast majority of drivers, since you don't have to exit the vehicle to lock them.
- ESOF ****
- Electronically controlled shifting via a motor in the transfer case.
- Considered more convenient.
- Electronically controlled shifting via a motor in the transfer case.
- Manual Shift Lever
- Does not require an electronic motor to change gears in the transfer case, which can be considered fewer things to break (in theory, as long as you don't abuse it, when it won't go into gear)
- Gives the driver a true neutral option, where neither the front or rear wheels have power connected from the transmission. Ideal for being towed, and only recommended for being towed.
- Does not require an electronic motor to change gears in the transfer case, which can be considered fewer things to break (in theory, as long as you don't abuse it, when it won't go into gear)
- Manual hubs
- Overall Notes (subject to one's opinion)
- Longevity of the 4wd components ideally has the driver engaging the system on a monthly basis. This keeps things free and lubricated. Many failures can be attributed to the lack of drivers ever engaging 4wd modes.
- For the average driver, who doesn't use 4wd often, ESOF on the fly doesn't have many downsides, considering you are still able to manually lock your hubs (for the scenario in which you are already stuck and need to get out).
- One could say that for the average driver, they are more likely to be able to increase the longevity of the system, because it is more convenient to engage 4wd and keep things free and lubricated. If you have to get out and manually engage the hubs, the average person is much less likely to do so, leading to problems down the road.
- Don't drive far on hard ground with 4wd, it puts stress on the transfer case, especially if you attempt to make a turn. You ideally want one of the wheels to be able to slip in this scenario.
- Longevity of the 4wd components ideally has the driver engaging the system on a monthly basis. This keeps things free and lubricated. Many failures can be attributed to the lack of drivers ever engaging 4wd modes.
#2
A transfer case is nothing like a differential. Put your truck on a lift and look at each.
Transfer case power goes to the front driveshaft, which is connected to the front axle.
Also, hubs couple your wheel hubs to the axle shafts. Indirectly, to the transfer case.
Hubs (manual or automatic) do not cause both front axles to be locked to each other. You still have a differential to allow axle speeds to vary as you go around a corner (in 2WD).
Automatic hubs still retain the ability to be manually locked. However, depending on why you need to manually lock them, you run a risk of not being able to unlock them.
That was why I installed manual hubs. In 2 Super Duties, I had hub problems, mostly with failure to unlock. Only with a fully manual hub can you be sure that the hub is fully locked or fully unlocked.ESOF can be slow going into 4-Lo. Mine takes its good sweet time deciding when or if it will shift. This was true of both Super Duties and few Explorers I have driven. I would never pick ESOF over a manual shift/manual hub configuration.
Transfer case power goes to the front driveshaft, which is connected to the front axle.
Also, hubs couple your wheel hubs to the axle shafts. Indirectly, to the transfer case.
Hubs (manual or automatic) do not cause both front axles to be locked to each other. You still have a differential to allow axle speeds to vary as you go around a corner (in 2WD).
Automatic hubs still retain the ability to be manually locked. However, depending on why you need to manually lock them, you run a risk of not being able to unlock them.
That was why I installed manual hubs. In 2 Super Duties, I had hub problems, mostly with failure to unlock. Only with a fully manual hub can you be sure that the hub is fully locked or fully unlocked.ESOF can be slow going into 4-Lo. Mine takes its good sweet time deciding when or if it will shift. This was true of both Super Duties and few Explorers I have driven. I would never pick ESOF over a manual shift/manual hub configuration.
#3
A transfer case is nothing like a differential. Put your truck on a lift and look at each.
Transfer case power goes to the front driveshaft, which is connected to the front axle.
Also, hubs couple your wheel hubs to the axle shafts. Indirectly, to the transfer case.
Hubs (manual or automatic) do not cause both front axles to be locked to each other. You still have a differential to allow axle speeds to vary as you go around a corner (in 2WD).
Automatic hubs still retain the ability to be manually locked. However, depending on why you need to manually lock them, you run a risk of not being able to unlock them.
That was why I installed manual hubs. In 2 Super Duties, I had hub problems, mostly with failure to unlock. Only with a fully manual hub can you be sure that the hub is fully locked or fully unlocked.ESOF can be slow going into 4-Lo. Mine takes its good sweet time deciding when or if it will shift. This was true of both Super Duties and few Explorers I have driven. I would never pick ESOF over a manual shift/manual hub configuration.
Transfer case power goes to the front driveshaft, which is connected to the front axle.
Also, hubs couple your wheel hubs to the axle shafts. Indirectly, to the transfer case.
Hubs (manual or automatic) do not cause both front axles to be locked to each other. You still have a differential to allow axle speeds to vary as you go around a corner (in 2WD).
Automatic hubs still retain the ability to be manually locked. However, depending on why you need to manually lock them, you run a risk of not being able to unlock them.
That was why I installed manual hubs. In 2 Super Duties, I had hub problems, mostly with failure to unlock. Only with a fully manual hub can you be sure that the hub is fully locked or fully unlocked.ESOF can be slow going into 4-Lo. Mine takes its good sweet time deciding when or if it will shift. This was true of both Super Duties and few Explorers I have driven. I would never pick ESOF over a manual shift/manual hub configuration.
#4
I was reading the manual (yes, I am impatiently waiting for the truck to be built and come in), and was reading the section regarding 4wd, ESOF, 4h and 4l. Then I did some searching on the forum to get a better understanding of what exactly is involved with 4wd, and found a couple of very informative threads.
Is the following summarization valid to make?
No.
Is the following summarization valid to make?
No.
- 4wd systems consist of a different transmission compared to a 2wd, that has an additional output in the (front, side, bottom)(?). No, The transmission always has a single input and single output. Some have a Power Take-off (PTO) provision. PTOs are run directly by the input of the transmission relating only to engine speed, and thus not considered a transmission output.
- The front tranny output goes into a transfer case. No, the transfer case input comes from the transmission's only output in the rear.
- The transfer case can be confused for a differential, because it has the same general shape, but internally it is not capable of letting either wheel have differing speeds like a standard differential, which is essential for your standard road conditions, like making a turn. No, nobody would ever confuse a transfer case for a differential in a Super Duty. You have described the difference between a limited slip differential (LSD) and an open differential.
- The transfer case generally has two internal gears: high and low. somewhat correct. The transfer case has a planetary on the input. in 2wd or 4-hi the input shaft is coupled to the output shaft for a 1:1 ratio. In 4-lo the planetary is locked for a 2:1 or higher ratio.
- The transfer case may or may not be able to shift between high and low without moving slowly. The planetary is not designed to be engaged in motion. For this reason, the TC must be shifted through neutral to get from high to low
- The transfer case can be confused for a differential, because it has the same general shape, but internally it is not capable of letting either wheel have differing speeds like a standard differential, which is essential for your standard road conditions, like making a turn. No, nobody would ever confuse a transfer case for a differential in a Super Duty. You have described the difference between a limited slip differential (LSD) and an open differential.
- From the transfer case, power goes out to the hubs No, the transfer case sends power to the front and rear differentials depending on which setting you are in
- Hubs are a coupling between your wheels and the transfer case No, hubs connect your wheels to your axle shafts
- Their primary use is to disconnect or reconnect power from the wheels to the transfer case In an indirect way... sure
- You really only want your hubs locked if you NEED 4wd, as it will cause both of your front wheels to be locked together, and they must match each other's speeds. Yes, then no. They won't be locked together, but will be much more constrained by the differential than an unlocked hub. In some cases with the correct equipment, it is worth locking only one hub... this is useless with an open differential in front
- This would be really crappy for making turns, and in 2wd, having them locked provides you no benefits.One benefit if you don't have automatic hubs... they are already locked when you get stuck. Otherwise you have to gain access to the hub to lock them after you get stuck
- You really only want your hubs locked if you NEED 4wd, as it will cause both of your front wheels to be locked together, and they must match each other's speeds. Yes, then no. They won't be locked together, but will be much more constrained by the differential than an unlocked hub. In some cases with the correct equipment, it is worth locking only one hub... this is useless with an open differential in front
- Ford Super Duty hubs are either automatic or manual
- Manual hubs require the driver to exit the vehicle, and physically turn the hub to lock or unlock it. yep
- You may have to rock the vehicle, or move it backward slightly to successfully be able to lock the hubs by hand. In extreme cases. You can usually turn the ****, but the hub won't truely unlock until the vehicle rolls and pressure is removed from the splines inside
- You may have to rock the vehicle, or move it backward slightly to successfully be able to lock the hubs by hand. In extreme cases. You can usually turn the ****, but the hub won't truely unlock until the vehicle rolls and pressure is removed from the splines inside
- Automatic hubs lock and unlock via vacuum, and do not require the driver to exit the vehicle to lock & unlock Yes, but they never work when needed
- Being able to lock and unlock from the interior of the vehicle allows you to be driving when the lock/unlock operation occurs, making it a little more painless. If the axle shafts and wheels are rotating at similar speeds. If the axles are spinning, but the wheels aren't... things break
- Locking the hubs will not work automatically if the vehicle is already stuck, you will still have to exit the vehicle. Automatic hubs, in proper working order, will work without having to exit the vehicle
- Automatic hubs still retain the ability to be manually locked. However, depending on why you need to manually lock them, you run a risk of not being able to unlock them. Um...Er... The two settings on automatic hubs are "Auto" and "Lock" as opposed to the manual system with "Free" and "Lock". If the automatic system doesn't work the "Auto" position just acts like the "Free" position on manual hubs.
- Being able to lock and unlock from the interior of the vehicle allows you to be driving when the lock/unlock operation occurs, making it a little more painless. If the axle shafts and wheels are rotating at similar speeds. If the axles are spinning, but the wheels aren't... things break
- Manual hubs require the driver to exit the vehicle, and physically turn the hub to lock or unlock it. yep
- Hubs are a coupling between your wheels and the transfer case No, hubs connect your wheels to your axle shafts
- Super duties can be ordered with either Electronic Shift on the Fly or Manual Shift on the Fly, depending on the model and packages ordered.
- Electronic Shift on the Fly (ESOF)
- Primary control is through a **** on the dash containing locations for 2H, 4H, 4L
- 2H (two wheel high): Standard mode for driving on the road. Putting it in this mode tells the transmission to stop sending power out the front, to the transfer case. the 4wd system doesn't tell the transmission anything. In 2wd, the front output of the TC is disengaged.
- 4 wheel drive modes
- Instruct the transmission to send power to the transfer case The transmission always sends power to the TC
- Comes with automatic hubs Not always
- Changes the vacuum level going to each of the front hubs, causing them to lock, and each wheel will want to go the same speed.
- 4H (four wheel high)
- You can attain higher speeds in this mode (perhaps in theory, as high as you can go in 2wd, although by definition if you have limited traction, you probably aren't going to this fast). 4hi simply engages the front output shaft on the TC. No gearing is changed as the input and output shafts in the TC are still locked via spline
- Since you are changing gears in the transfer case, you can shift into 4H at a higher speed. There are no gears to change in the TC. Only a planetary to engage or disengage. The Front output shaft on the NP271/NP273 transfer cases is synchronized with alternating dog-teeth... this makes it very easy to engage at almost any speed
- You can attain higher speeds in this mode (perhaps in theory, as high as you can go in 2wd, although by definition if you have limited traction, you probably aren't going to this fast). 4hi simply engages the front output shaft on the TC. No gearing is changed as the input and output shafts in the TC are still locked via spline
- 4L (four wheel low)
- This instructs an electric motor in the transfer case to switch gears, lowering your overall top speed, but increasing your torque, is good for going up or down hills, or while pulling a load. 4lo disconnects the input shaft from the output shaft in the TC and engages the planetary reduction. It also engages the front output shaft.
- Unless you have a specific need for 4L, there is no point in using it. well... yeah
- Can take extra time to shift, and may require you to drive slowly for a bit, depending on if the teeth mesh properly. Can take extra time (ESOF), but you're not driving anywhere as the TC will be in neutral until the planetary engages. The two options are to let off the brake and roll slowly, or let out the clutch to rotate the input. Automatics must be in neutral to shift to 4lo. If the planetary won't engage you can bump into and out of D after moving to neutral on the TC to rotate the input on the TC.
- Ideally you would be driving from 1-5mph during this switch. No... Nearly any motion will prevent the planetary from engaging. The engine must be disconnected from the output of the transmission to even begin the process.
- This instructs an electric motor in the transfer case to switch gears, lowering your overall top speed, but increasing your torque, is good for going up or down hills, or while pulling a load. 4lo disconnects the input shaft from the output shaft in the TC and engages the planetary reduction. It also engages the front output shaft.
- Instruct the transmission to send power to the transfer case The transmission always sends power to the TC
- Primary control is through a **** on the dash containing locations for 2H, 4H, 4L
- Manual Shift on the Fly
- Most of the properties of the ESOF apply
- Instead of a **** on the dash, you have a shift lever in the cab of the vehicle.
- The shift lever can be in 2H, 4H, 4L, and Neutral
- Neutral completely disconnects the transmission from the front transfer case, and the rear differential. This is really nice in case you need to be towed. Not completely, the transmission still turns the input of the transfer case. In N the low-planetary is disengaged and so is the 1:1 spline. N is almost always between 4lo and 2hi.
- There is no electric motor that shifts gears in the transfer case. There are no gears to shift in the transfer case, but at this point you might be confused with 'shift' and 'select'... there really aren't gears to shift in any transmission anymore as everything is constant mesh. I say there are no gears to shift in the TC because other than the planetary it is just a sprocket and chain that moves power to the front output shaft
- The shift lever can be in 2H, 4H, 4L, and Neutral
- Comes with manual hubs.
- Not available on the Lariat package and above?
- Most of the properties of the ESOF apply
- Pros and Cons
- Manual hubs
- Generally considered more stout. If much of your time is spent requiring 4wd, you might consider manual hubs. Not really more stout, just fewer things to not work. Automatic hubs become manual hubs when they don't work on their own
- Because they require you to exit the vehicle, they are much less convenient. You expect to have to exit with manual hubs... a huge inconvenience is thinking you have automatic hubs, but they don't work
- Can be locked even if you are already stuck (because you can get out and manually lock them). If you can reach them
- Generally considered more stout. If much of your time is spent requiring 4wd, you might consider manual hubs. Not really more stout, just fewer things to not work. Automatic hubs become manual hubs when they don't work on their own
- Automatic hubs
- Are considered far more convenient than manual hubs for the vast majority of drivers, since you don't have to exit the vehicle to lock them.
- Automatic locking and unlocking will not work if you are already stuck. You must shift to 4wd before being stuck, else you may be forced to exit the vehicle to lock your hubs. They work just the same as manuals, but from a remote location... when they work
- Are considered far more convenient than manual hubs for the vast majority of drivers, since you don't have to exit the vehicle to lock them.
- ESOF ****
- Electronically controlled shifting via a motor in the transfer case.
- Considered more convenient.
- Electronically controlled shifting via a motor in the transfer case.
- Manual Shift Lever
- Does not require an electronic motor to change gears in the transfer case, which can be considered fewer things to break (in theory, as long as you don't abuse it, when it won't go into gear) It is a direct linkage to the shift rail in the transfer case. You can actually feel the dog teeth clash if you are trying to do something incorrectly.
- Gives the driver a true neutral option, where neither the front or rear wheels have power connected from the transmission. Ideal for being towed, and only recommended for being towed. Not exclusive to the manual T-Case.
- Does not require an electronic motor to change gears in the transfer case, which can be considered fewer things to break (in theory, as long as you don't abuse it, when it won't go into gear) It is a direct linkage to the shift rail in the transfer case. You can actually feel the dog teeth clash if you are trying to do something incorrectly.
- Manual hubs
- Overall Notes (subject to one's opinion)
- Longevity of the 4wd components ideally has the driver engaging the system on a monthly basis. This keeps things free and lubricated. Many failures can be attributed to the lack of drivers ever engaging 4wd modes. Everything always spins. Friction in the bearings between the hubs, axles, front diff, and t-case will cause the front driveshaft to rotate even when not powered
- For the average driver, who doesn't use 4wd often, ESOF on the fly doesn't have many downsides, considering you are still able to manually lock your hubs (for the scenario in which you are already stuck and need to get out). The only downside is relying on both an electronic and vacuum system to work. If they are kept in order, the ESOF is very convenient
- One could say that for the average driver, they are more likely to be able to increase the longevity of the system, because it is more convenient to engage 4wd and keep things free and lubricated. If you have to get out and manually engage the hubs, the average person is much less likely to do so, leading to problems down the road. ESOF is necessary to engage periodically to make sure the T-Case shifts and the hubs lock. Lubrication is not an issue
- Don't drive far on hard ground with 4wd, it puts stress on the transfer case, especially if you attempt to make a turn. You ideally want one of the wheels to be able to slip in this scenario. It puts stress on the hubs and the TC. While the wheels will spin at different speeds in relation to each other, the front and rear output shafts will not. Any slippage goes directly into the chain and the aluminum TC housing. You can tell by the difficulty of disengagement, as the front output will not readily disengage if there is torsion on it.
- Longevity of the 4wd components ideally has the driver engaging the system on a monthly basis. This keeps things free and lubricated. Many failures can be attributed to the lack of drivers ever engaging 4wd modes. Everything always spins. Friction in the bearings between the hubs, axles, front diff, and t-case will cause the front driveshaft to rotate even when not powered
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fordman71
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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RyanMiller
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08-17-2004 05:59 PM