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Help...Manifold to Up-Pipe Bolts Siezed.

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  #16  
Old 04-22-2015, 02:30 PM
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We used oxy/acetylene on his manifold bolts. On the workbench.
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:37 PM
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Man, that does look good. Did you guys take the plenums off, or just tape them off?
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:41 PM
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They go right to sleep when ya flip them over...



After using hammers, chisels, scrapers and finally 4000psi rotating 0* tip to remove all the loose rust - a coat of Rustoleum 'rusty metal' primer was applied and allowed to cure.



Then, a healthy coat of Rustoleum oil-based enamel over that.



The manifolds were cleaned and VHT flameproof 2000* paint was applied (also up- pipe collector).



It turned out nice!

 
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ToMang07
Man, that does look good. Did you guys take the plenums off, or just tape them off?

The donor engine was an E99, so we did take plenums off.
 
  #20  
Old 04-22-2015, 02:52 PM
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It is labor intensive, but honestly nothing as hard as what you are trying to do now. This could be done by an 'average' mechanic and only help really needed is the actual extraction and installation of the engine.
 
  #21  
Old 04-22-2015, 03:03 PM
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I'm just worried about what else I'm not going to be able to get out. I suppose if there's ever a good time to take the engine out it's now in the spring, when I won't need the truck. I have a 2,000lb stand and a 4,000lb cherry picker ready to go with the new oil pan and a ton of other parts. I guess I should just man up and do it. The engine has never been out in 13 years and 135,000 miles. It's gonna suck.

Ugh.
 
  #22  
Old 04-22-2015, 03:16 PM
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It's not as bad as you think. I've wrestled a few rustbelt truck engines and it's never been as bad as I thought it was gonna be. Think about it, the TC bolts, engine to trans bolts, etc won't be rusty. I've never had trouble with motor mount bolts either. Now stuff like trans cooler lines to radiator? Plan to improvise (cut tubing and splice together at reassembly with hose) or buy new lines and maybe radiator. If you decide to do it, I'll think about what other little pitfalls ya might encounter.

Get that new oil pan Line-X'd and have it waiting.

135k miles is a baby!!!! Well worth the investment!
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
It's not as bad as you think. I've wrestled a few rustbelt truck engines and it's never been as bad as I thought it was gonna be. Think about it, the TC bolts, engine to trans bolts, etc won't be rusty. I've never had trouble with motor mount bolts either. Now stuff like trans cooler lines to radiator? Plan to improvise (cut tubing and splice together at reassembly with hose) or buy new lines and maybe radiator. If you decide to do it, I'll think about what other little pitfalls ya might encounter.

Get that new oil pan Line-X'd and have it waiting.

135k miles is a baby!!!! Well worth the investment!
I hear ya man. I guess I'm just looking at my track record on this project so far. I'm 1:8 in the win:lose category. And knowing how many steps/parts/lines/bolts could go wrong between start-finish....makes me a little nauseous.
 
  #24  
Old 04-22-2015, 06:14 PM
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Either way, keep us all posted on what method you use to get the bolts out and install the new pipes.
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
Either way, keep us all posted on what method you use to get the bolts out and install the new pipes.
......
 
  #26  
Old 04-22-2015, 08:19 PM
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Can you get to them easier if you pull the wheels and fender liners?
 
  #27  
Old 04-22-2015, 08:21 PM
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Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. It works really well
 
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bigb56
Can you get to them easier if you pull the wheels and fender liners?

Not really, especially since I'd have to take my fender flares off. (Screwed into the fender.)

Originally Posted by fordpride
Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. It works really well
Never heard that before, but frig it,I'll try it.
 
  #29  
Old 04-23-2015, 11:55 AM
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:38 PM
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