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Help...Manifold to Up-Pipe Bolts Siezed.

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  #46  
Old 04-25-2015, 08:17 PM
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I just can't imagine having to deal with all that rust. I guess living in the desert has some advantages.




 
  #47  
Old 04-25-2015, 11:15 PM
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Yeah, I don't think you were getting those out without some direct blows from the BFH.

If they start to mushroom, grind them flush and use a punch. I use the hot wrench and heat the head of the BOLT to nearly molten, then smack'em like ya mean it.
 
  #48  
Old 04-26-2015, 02:26 AM
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I'd probibly cut them off, grind them flat and drill.
 
  #49  
Old 04-26-2015, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ToMang07
Yup. I ****** hate rust.



What crack?
I know I haven't seen everything but I have been tooling around my own stuff for a long long time. Those are the ugliest bolts I've ever seen, bar none.

In that pic the shadow makes it look like a cavernous crack...it had me fooled 'til it got brought up and I studied it harder.

I'd hit it with acetylene torch if you have access to one. Steel and cast iron don't just suddenly disappear on you like aluminum does. You can heat that manifold up 'til it's cherry red and tap the bolt out pretty easily. Especially when you have it out and you're not in a confined area.
 
  #50  
Old 04-26-2015, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
I know I haven't seen everything but I have been tooling around my own stuff for a long long time. Those are the ugliest bolts I've ever seen, bar none.

In that pic the shadow makes it look like a cavernous crack...it had me fooled 'til it got brought up and I studied it harder.

I'd hit it with acetylene torch if you have access to one. Steel and cast iron don't just suddenly disappear on you like aluminum does. You can heat that manifold up 'til it's cherry red and tap the bolt out pretty easily. Especially when you have it out and you're not in a confined area.
This poor truck has lived in northern New England it's whole life. 80k miles in Central Vermont and the last 50k in Maine. It's seen a lot of winters and salt. It sucks. I really, really, REALLY fuggin hate rust.

I do not have acetylene, but I may buy a smaller acetylene torch setup just for this. Now that it's out I'm not worried about burning the truck down. I'm sure the manifolds are gonna suck to get off, but I think new ones painted with high-temp paint will outlast the block at this point.
 
  #51  
Old 04-27-2015, 08:42 PM
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Tom you are doing a great job keep up the good work. I must say you truck does have some really nasty rust on that exhaust parts. I feel your pain since I have to pull the motor in my old '76 motorhome to deal with exhaust manifolds and mine on the '76 460 are actually alittle better then your 7.3's. But not by much !!
 
  #52  
Old 04-28-2015, 02:13 AM
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That sure looked like a cavernous load of crack! I'm Glad it was all an illusion......
 
  #53  
Old 05-25-2015, 09:05 AM
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Got some paint on her this weekend! All the CAC/Manifold/up-pipes will be silver, and the engine will be blue obviously. She's looking good and coming together nicely! I should have the engine put back together as of Thursday, probably won't be putting the block back in until next week tho, but we'll see, if I can get it back together sooner I will! Still need to clean and paint in the frame/cross-member in inside the front end.





 
  #54  
Old 05-25-2015, 10:38 AM
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Looking GREAT!!!!
 
  #55  
Old 05-25-2015, 10:49 AM
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Nice Job !! Keep the photos coming.
 
  #56  
Old 05-25-2015, 11:14 AM
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Got a bit left to do.

Fuel bowl rebuild/reinstall w/ FRX.
IPR clean/rebuild/reinstall.
Manifolds/gaskets/up-pipes.
Oil Pan still needs to be bedlined/installed.

Waiting on new valve cover to come in then they will be painted as well.

Then it's just reinstall the engine, slap all the parts on the front end back on, install new hydroboost/power steering lines, and put the truck back together.

Any thoughts on spray-painting the enamel (high temp) paint over the bed-lined on the oil pan? I doubt the bed-liner can be baked on, and I'm not sure the oil will get hot enough to cure it.

It'd look good tho, even if just for a little while, lol!
 
  #57  
Old 06-03-2015, 09:16 AM
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Got the engine back in and EVENTUALLY re-connected to the transmission. That took forever. Most of the engine/electrical is put back together, replaced all the hydroboost lines as well. Now just need to reinstall all the coolers/hoses on the front end and fill her with fluids and check for leaks.
 
  #58  
Old 06-04-2015, 12:02 AM
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Looking Good I think you are doing a great job of addressing the issues and avoiding future problems by doing things like replacing the hydroboost lines along with the other things you have done.
Did you have a bad rub mark on the one hydro line that runs down by the frame? I ask because my lower line is rubbed into the line bad before I could move. So I'm thinking if you replace one ..why not both. So how costly where them lines?

Keep up the good work !!
 
  #59  
Old 06-04-2015, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
Looking Good I think you are doing a great job of addressing the issues and avoiding future problems by doing things like replacing the hydroboost lines along with the other things you have done.
Did you have a bad rub mark on the one hydro line that runs down by the frame? I ask because my lower line is rubbed into the line bad before I could move. So I'm thinking if you replace one ..why not both. So how costly where them lines?

Keep up the good work !!

One of them rubbed through on the shock mount, which is what prompted me to replace them. I'm trying to think of what i could use to help protect them from it happening again. They are NOT cheap, I went with OEM from Sunrise Ford. I'll look up the invoice for ya.
 
  #60  
Old 06-04-2015, 09:01 AM
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Here you go, you need to look up the part numbers to get the diagrams of which goes where.
 
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