I've never noticed the lights flickering while cranking, so maybe that's a camera thing.

Thank you for taking the time to offer advice.

 

Now we're getting somewhere! I just had the bowl out for cleaning and re-sealing. I removed the heater element, but the plate it attaches to is still present. There was no valve mechanism. I'll check again when I have time tomorrow.

It's on a trickle charger for the night. The batteries are new, the terminals are bright and shiny. No corrosion.

Do all model years have the filter safety valve?

 

Found the check valve, duh. It works fine. Shook the IDM, no water present. Unplugged the ICP, still no start. My next guess is IPR?

 

Do you see it cranking faster on the tach, or no more flickering lights while cranking, after charging the batteries?

 

No, it's the same. I watched the video again, and I see what you mean about the flickering, but it doesn't do that in person. The battery light does dim very slightly when cranking, but the camera seems to exaggerate it.

 

Do you know someone who would let you borrow their IDM?

 

I just re read this whole thread and looked over the no-start chart again... I keep getting to insufficient cranking speed.


I had this trouble last night when I went to start my 97 after sitting all winter. It cranked over, and didn't seem too slow, but wouldn't start. I knew that that was the problem though. I put my battery charger on it, and vroom.


You could get a mechanical HPO gauge hooked up to eliminate that possibility, but since you are getting smoke, I would think that means the HPO pressure is good and the IDM is at least partially working.

 

I'd still be curious to know what the HPO pressure is, even with smoke. It sounds to me like it's cranking fast enough, but you could try jump starting it, just to see if you can get it to crank a little faster

 

^^^^ Or a pull-start.

 

Again, it tries to start with ether. It's not a cranking speed issue. I'll be working for the next week and I won't have time to wrench on it. My suspicion is FPR, but I'm really considering AE software. Hate throwing money at it, you know?

 

I understand and agree with you. I just don't think it would hurt to hook up a set of jumper cables, just to try it. At the very least, it will take some of the strain of extended cranking off your batteries.

Pull the FPR off and clean the screen? 35 psi should be enough to get it cranked.

Before dropping the coin on AE software, I'd consider getting one of those cheap bluetooth OBDII dongles and the Torque Pro app. It'll go a long way for relatively little cost. It will read engine codes, ICP psi, IPR %, etc. That being said, the AE software looks very nice and I'm planning to buy it eventually as well.

This is the bluetooth dongle I have and it works pretty decent:
The app costs $5. Think it's just for Android devices, if I'm not mistaken.

 

Update:

It's been awhile, and I haven't done much, due to a move. The truck ended up going off to a shop specializing in Powerstroke engines. He explained to me that the truck has everything it needs to start. Although the injectors passed a Buzz test, they aren't producing fuel. I need rebuilt injectors.

What are ya'lls opinions on the O-ring kits? These injectors seem to be gummed up, which doesn't surprise me, given what I cleaned out of the bowl. Could i get by with cleaning them, and installing fresh O-rings?

 

Personally, if you trust the mechanic, I'd send the injectors to Rosewood to be professionally rebuilt and tested.

 

I've ordered rebuilt injectors from GB Remanufacturing C/O Rockauto. $138/ea+$125 core. Also ordered GP's and controller. He's charging me $500 labor, minus the 1.5hr diagnosis already into it. Sounds fair to me.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...VGc/view?pli=1