somewhere in there I used the handy tool I customized for the FE to remove the springs so I could install a weaker spring and a solid lifter along with the adjustable pushrod for proper pushrod length.

 

I also dropped the intake back in place with gasket to check for pushrod clearance and intake port alignment to the head using a Borescope. It looked great!

 

Once the long block was done I masked it off and sprayed with PPG concept. I found it lasts much longer than the typical spray can . .

I had a hard time to decide if black or corporate blue. The corporate blue I had formulated years ago from a NOS part but somehow the blue disappeared and was in a bin or box of unknown. I used the black . . LOL

I am not a fan of hardware store fasteners with washers, they look out of place so proper plated original style bolts were used. IMHO I think it adds a bit to install after paint vs just a blob of one color.

I did use a new set of ARP head bolts, same torque used as when final honing was done.

 

A before and after of the as purchased and final valve job.

This was the quick version on this particular 418.

Its now time for intake and to check for possible dyno availability.

Oh yeah, I picked up a new QF 780 carb, prob time to open box and at least look at it . .

 

Impressive work. Keep it coming. Thanks for the detailed account of your work.

 

Boss9F100 - An excellent blow by blow. Thank you. I'm about to build my first ever engine and you provide an excellent perspective on what a careful build looks like.

 

Thanks!

Hoping to finish it up tomorrow.

I will most likely go the chassis dyno route vs the engine dyno because of availability. Be nice to do both again.

Expecting as in the past a minimum of 100hp loss flywheel vs rw

 

If you do not want to wait for a engine this one will be completed today . . .

Box it up and ship it for probably far less than you can build one for.

Estimated 475 HP @ 5500 RPM

I would like to dyno it just so its not just a "educated guess"

On engine you plan on building you asked about compression ratio

On a 442 cube engine .020 over 390 4.070 bore

Zero deck

76 cc combustion chamber

1021 head gasket

In order to get 10.50 compression you would need a flat top piston with a
9 cc dish.
10 cc dish would be 10.4

8 cc dish would be 10.6

Common 12 cc would be 10.21

I would go with a hydraulic roller cam if you have the $$

I would suggest getting align bore good then same rod and piston in all four corners to check your deck clearance. With that then do the decking so you will have a zero piston to deck clearance.

Of course you have to come up with the proper piston first. To be in the ballpark.

 

Finally had a bit of time to work on the 418 assy.

Getting close now!

 

Beautiful. I am usually not a fan of chrome valve covers, but I like the Mercury logo. Will she run as good as she looks?

 

Sure hope so!

I pulled the original engine out of the '66 so no turning back now . .

 

NICE BUILD
I have Desk top dyno5 , would love to run your engine on it to compare to the actual Dyno results. shoot me your engine specs if you want .

 

I have the latest version of Dynomation

Send PM for info

Is this the one you have? This is my version

http://www.motionsoftware.com/Dynomation5.htm

 

Cannot believe a month and a half has flown by already. Just so much going on and not able to get much done.

I will get you the info

I just got the 418 running last week. Will post a couple vid's in a bit.

 

Here is first start-up vid. Fired instantly but when it shot flames out my friend jumped back not expecting that so I shut it down.

I had overfilled the primary bowl a bit (no glasses on and could not see the level, lol)

Just click on picture for video. Not quite sure how to imbed in post