I was watching a show yesterday where they were upgrading the drivetrain and reinforcing the chassis on an off-road Jeep. So I started wondering about the priority of similar upgrades to our trucks. From another perspective, what are the weakest links? I'm in the very early phases of rebuilding my engine and I'd hate to have a high-HP/high-torque motor that I can't effectively utilize.

 

Quite a few things are different from jeeps. The frames are quite strong from the factory and do not require boxing plates unless you are doing some really extreme wheeling.


Im assuming you have a Dana 60 in the rear and Dana 44 in the front since your sig has a F250 listed. Lockers of some sort (lunchbox to ARB) are usually a common option.


Even with a stout 351m and 35's you wont be snapping drive line parts. If you bolt on a blower and move past 38's you might consider stronger axle parts.

 

I'd say for wheeling, and a built engine your weakest link is going to be the U Joints. The stock 1310's / 1330's are screaming for an upgrade at that point. A yoke swap all the way around to 1350's would not be a bad idea. Be prepared to spend around $1500.00 to $2000.00 doing it though, if you have all new driveshafts made.

 

Here is a past FTE members 2 cents on it:

I suggest that you set a goal and stick to it, I mean that you should create a reasonable goal, and do what you can to achieve it. Not too many fellas are in the 700 hp club, and when I hear this I truly expect 500 real hp's, but let’s talk about that.

500 hp is huge compared to the whopping 120 something you are making now. I’m not ripping on the 351M, errrr, ok, maybe a little. But regardless, this thing made around 150 to 170 Hp's when it was new. A tired old "M" might make the same 30 years later. Add a big honking cam that makes power far higher than the engine is actually capable of reaching, or heads that can’t flow enough air to maximize that aftermarket carb, and you might actually make less than the factory spec. Consider that the engine is tired so it might be making 100 hp, and my original estimate was not accurate. Being an optimist, I as shooting for a high number.

You can make 1 HP per cubic inch, or at least make slightly less. Either way, you will have a mill that is still over three times the power house that the 351M ever was. Start with the 460 and never look back. Each time you upgrade you can’t count on the fact that you are one step closer to your goal, the reasonable one.

Guess this all boils down to priority. Is it a priority to complete what you have? I mean, it runs right? You decided that the priority was to build enough of a lift to clear tires large enough that your stock engine just won’t be able to turn? Sounds kind of strange when it is put like that right?

How about building a bullet proof drivetrain, that can handle anything that you throw at it, and use a reasonable tire? 37's can be a ton of fun in a stock truck with some gears and a locker. Ever drive a 1 ton equipped truck with 1 ton gear, 35 spline axles or even chromo, locker, steep gears and smaller tires like 37's? It’s a blast! Hit it with some power and one may not ever change from this.
Once the drivetrain is bullet proof, and you have installed all of the gear that will make it suitable for upgrades, now comes the bullet.

See since your drivetrain is bullet proof, you won’t ever worry about breaking it, and all of the money you save will go towards the next goal. No distractions, like broken axles or downtime. What’s next? The engine and trans. Meanwhile you are still wheeling the thing, and you are tearing all sorts of stuff up, but not the drivetrain.
So you have some fun wheeling the truck, and you are building a nice engine for it. Upgrades do not have to come right away, just a nice running 460 that will smash that little 351M. All of this is while you are still pimpin 37's.

So a little time goes by, and you have a nice bullet for the gun. A fresh 460 with early iron heads, flat tops, timing set, and a nice reasonable cam. Small carb, but that’s all you need right now. Its reliable, starts every time, runs like a champ and making over 350 Hp's easy.That’s about a 300% increase over the old engine. Thought you were tearing it up before, now you are just getting crazy.

Time for tires. Since you already have nice 1 ton gear, and a bullet proof set of axles, you have the gears to turn a larger tire, you now set a goal for some lift and some tires that put you in a different category. Lift it and make some mods, but the axles are still working great, engine is as nice as can be, and you are still having a blast. This truck has seen minimal downtime, and you have been rolling it around all over the place.

What do we upgrade next? Who knows, because we’ve built a decent drivetrain, and it runs well, but we need some more puppy power, so we head to the speed shop, and up the cam, port some heads, step up the carb and maybe intake. You have already found a used intake on Craigslist, and got it for a song, and look at that, the National Dragster has a guy selling a Demon carb that looks like it has been unmolested, and it is cheap.

Kind of see where I am going here? None of us have the pockets to build a fire breather on the first go around, and none of us have hit it out of the park on the first swing, but I am sure that every one of us would have done things a little bit differently, and some wish that we had.

Everyone can build a truck in any order they wish, but it seems to me that most build them backwards.They lift it, put some big honking meats under it then struggle with broken parts, and have to limp a sorry engine around to try to turn the things. Backwards I say.

Gimme a nice 460, and some 1 tons that won’t break, I’ll throw in a Detroit out back, and Ill wheel it with white wall tires. Probably do as well or better than so many of those other trucks that I see on the trail. Wimpy little engine, no traction devices, we can see this because it is stuck on wet grass. Busted axle or u-joints, Oh….but it has some big ol meats and it looks nice, Can’t get out of its own way, but it looks nice. Cracks me up............

For the reader of this I’m just throwing out some examples and some ideas. Its your rig, and in all honesty, I applaud your efforts. You do have the desire and ability. Keep that up. Don’t lose that. Only one way to gain experience my friend. Only one way.

 

Sounds like Ed with that demon carb,,,Ed always had good info in my book

 

Yes it was a quote from Ed aka F350, I have lots of great ideas from him, and yes he does wheel hard on his rigs.

 

Like mentioned earlier! Dr ivetrain upgrades!!! Rear driveline 1350 Spicer and bigger dia. At slip yoke to transfer case factory is around 1" need 1 1/4"! Eventually down the road a dana 60 front. Dana 70 rear or something with 1 1/2" axles. I have been running a reliable truck setup similar to these components for many yrs. Stout 472" 500ish on power! Used to run a 520" and reliability went away! Your dana 44 and big block is a bad combo together with anything bigger than 35" and still borderline if applying the power!

 

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Motivation! Took me many yrs to get my combination reliable! Time served and money$$$!

 

My truck is linked up front and air bagged! Best thing I ever done for my truck! Air ride helps on carb slosh! 472" bbf 850 quick fuel carb solid cam custom grind for my truck! C6 built to the max! If you have any questions just ask! Upgrade your drivelines!!!! 1350 spicers!!!

 

If you run boggers you will find weak links quickly! Boggers kick azz! I have a set of 38" boggers! But when running highway a lot my ground hawgs last 3 times longer!
really like the 38" skinny boggers! Light weight and big block can clean real easy!


gonna need some more lift on old blue.

 

49" irok! Would have to build a completely different truck to be reliable!

 

Another cool upgrade is change rear leafsprings to longer leafs! Drill hole and fabrication is required! Measure 50 times then drill!!

 

what is the main purpose of your truck? Mudding mountains towing?

 

Towing mountains through the mud would be quite impressive!

 

Towing and mountains! Like mentioned anything with 1.5" axles! Dana 70 rear! Dana 60 front and upgrade to 1.5" stub axles! This makes for a stout truck! 1350 spicer u joints!