When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Played with the timing. The marks were almost lined, I just worked the try and see and advanced and advanced. It does not make much difference on idle, but huge diference through the rpm range. Ended up so when u rew it you sligtly hear sharp diesel rattle, before it was just like gasser. Boy it waked up the engine. The only thing that confuses me when I jump the cold advance in, the sound does not change, the cold idle kicks in. I tryed it on hot engine, I have to try on cold engine. The sensor is melted, need to change it from the other engine I have. Here is the Picture of the timing now. Need to get the timing light and time it corectly, but nobody has it to borrow, and I do not want to spend 250 bucks to use it ocasionaly and just have it on the shelve, but it seems I will have to.
The ignition key got stuck ignition on thankfully, not the starter on, I think it just jamed. Greased it and it is working now, checked the ignition switch and the metal tab, those seem to work fine.
The light switch sticks again, I think it is time for the relay mode as Gary suggested, I have a feeling the contacks just slightly melt together. We have to have lights on all the time.
Played with the original radio, changed the belts in the cassette player and it is fully functional now. Electric Windows work now on both sides, today I try to adjust the steering box and get rid of the steering Wheel play. Here is the video how it ran in Arizona.
Running the 100 percent biodiesel, it is 20 percent cheaper just want to know what will be the mileage on it. Need to find the source for transformator oil, which is cheap and it runs perfect on it. 50 cents a liter. The diesel here is 1.20 for liter, biodiesel is 95 cents a litter.
You won't like what happens when you adjust the steering box. I've tried many times and have found that tightening it up at all, and I mean at all, causes the steering wheel not to return properly after a corner. And other bad things. So, make SURE you mark where the adjustment is before you start as you will want to come back there.
The only way to fix it is to replace the box. And you will like the result so much that you will wonder why it took so long before you did it. But, you have to figure out if you want a rebuilt unit or a better-than-new unit from Red Head. The difference is that in the original box one end of the shaft runs directly in the casting. When people rebuild the box they re-use the casting and its worn hole. Red Head bores the casting out and installs a proper bearing.
The only problém with this car in Europe is that everything has to be imported from the states. Tightened the steering box and it behaves fine, changed the tie rods, ball ends and it sure is different truck now.
Here is the video running, I think it performs well.
The problem I found about my truck is tired front leaf springs, as the camber is to letter A instead of H on leveled ground. The rubber limiters almost touch the axle, about 1 inch at most the clearance among them. What should I do? Try to reshape the springs, use some shop to do it, or order new ones? How much clearance was there when new? Well as they are heavy the new ones shipped here wont be cheap. Any suggestions?
I also need to change all the rubber bushings on the front axle plus the ball joints have ruined dust covers, so probably need to change those as well.
The steering has still a little play and yes Gary u were right it does not return all the way when turning, but still huge improvement. Need to play with it more, or take it apart and rebuild it. Is there reseal kit for it? Or rebuild kit for it? Anybody has a drawing what is inside? Thanks.
On the springs, I've read that there are lots of companies that re-arch the springs. So that's what I'd look for as it should be a lot less expensive if you can find one locally.
On the steering box, the catalog says you should have the Ford-designed unit, so here are the drawings pertinent to that. And, the last one is just a close-up of the inset in the previous one.
If you didn't remove the pitman arm or tie rod end and remove all the fluid before you adjusted the gear box, then you have it too tight. This adjustment only effects mesh load for the center of steering. So if it's too tight it will bind before it gets to center and your steering doesn't return properly. You should set it up properly now before you wear out your box super fast.
To adjust, remove the pitman arm or drag link off the steering box, remove the return line, cycle steering back and forth till no more fluid comes out. Now remove the horn pad and put an inch pound bar type torque wrench (do not use the click style) on the steering wheel nut and turn it from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock and repeat till you find your reading over center, you should be somewhere between 12 to 19 inch pounds, any more and it's too tight, not enough and it will wander on the road.
Never changing the fluid and cranking that adjustment is the most common ways to wear out these steering boxes.
Depending on how worn out the current leaf springs are, re arching may not be the best idea. If it was newer steel, it would hold but if the steel is really fatigued, he may be in the same situation he is is now a few months down the road.
-Junior
__________________ www.ATSsprings.com
Ask About our Ford-Truck Forum Discounts! (1-888-943-8287) "We sell parts and experience"
Depending on how worn out the current leaf springs are, re arching may not be the best idea. If it was newer steel, it would hold but if the steel is really fatigued, he may be in the same situation he is is now a few months down the road.
Actually, it is for Romel, not me. And, it is The Czech Republic, not Germany. He will have to liaise with you if he is interested. But, he will probably need some price estimates - I would if it were me.
I have heard that re arching is just for a while, the engine is extra heavy and it is 30 years the springs hold it up. How much would be the new springs?
If you didn't remove the pitman arm or tie rod end and remove all the fluid before you adjusted the gear box, then you have it too tight. This adjustment only effects mesh load for the center of steering. So if it's too tight it will bind before it gets to center and your steering doesn't return properly. You should set it up properly now before you wear out your box super fast.
To adjust, remove the pitman arm or drag link off the steering box, remove the return line, cycle steering back and forth till no more fluid comes out. Now remove the horn pad and put an inch pound bar type torque wrench (do not use the click style) on the steering wheel nut and turn it from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock and repeat till you find your reading over center, you should be somewhere between 12 to 19 inch pounds, any more and it's too tight, not enough and it will wander on the road.
Never changing the fluid and cranking that adjustment is the most common ways to wear out these steering boxes.
Thanks, I did not know I need to drain the fluid. I tied the adjustable bolt to the point it got slight resistence, secured with the nut. It was about 3 turns. But there is still play I can not get rid of, probably the rod bearings are worn. It should be easy to bore the holes and make proper tight bearings for it by machine shop. Sorry for my ignorance but this is how it always worked on old cars here, just to tight it to the point that there is barely any play in the middle, but I admit it can be worn beyond the adjusting. I also need to align the wheels on laser geometry first, but the camber is wrong, that might worsen the returning of the steering Wheel as well. IS the camber the correct term? I also need the axle bushings and all ball joints as the dust guards are disintegrating. Just need to save some money, still recovering the import cost.
Camber is how much the tire tilts out/in. Caster is how much the pivot point of the wheel tilts back/forward. And it is caster that makes the biggest difference in returning to center.
As for draining, etc to set the steering box, that is the best way to find the right spot on the first attempt. However, if you go slowly on the adjustment so you don't put things in a bind and damage the box, you can find the best balance between lash and lack-of-return by simply tightening the adjustment slightly and trying it. But, when the box is worn there is no amount of adjustment that will make it work like new. You simply have your choice of having the right "feel" and slack, or less slack and less feel.
Jan, since your truck is low miles and gently used, I kind of suspect the gear box may not need a rebuild just yet. I think most of your steering problems are related to physical damage of the front end since the tie rod was bent and the re-painted fender suggests a history of a mild accident. True, that could potentially have damaged the gear box but I am betting your alignment is still not right. That aspect was never repaired as it was eating tires on the way to Arizona. You straightened most of it on the road but it needs full proper alignment. I wish we had the chance to check out more things while you were here, but the time was flying and we had our hands full with the ZF conversion.
Gary, I'm not going to hijack Jan's thread with my own issues, but thank you for contributing your knowledge on the gear box. You just saved me a ton of headaches also. Pretty sure I need Red Head. Now if I can just figure out how to convert a Saginaw pump to an IDI serpentine bracket... Cardone no longer makes the pump for that.
Jan, I will check into some pricing on new springs but I think the shipping will be killer. Are there spring shops over there that could bend you a brand new set? I think re-arching would be a waste of money.
08-29-2015, 03:57 AM
