Hey guys. I have an '01 F-350 7.3 Turbo diesel. When the engine is cold it chatters quite a bit and after it warms up it still chatters a lot but not as bad. It starts right up every time, even on cold days. Doesn't have a miss and idles smoothly (except for the noise). Seems to run fine with plenty of power, just really noisy. It has an edge programmer on it with 5 settings- Stock, Mileage, Tow, Race, and Extreme. When it is set to stock, mileage or tow, it is pretty noisy but about the same on all 3 settings. When it is set to race or extreme, it sounds like the engine is about to fly apart but has really good power. I never run it in race or extreme because it sounds like it may be hurting the engine. If anybody has any opinions on how to maybe solve this issue or what may be causing it please give me some ideas. Thanks in advance. If any more info is needed, just ask.

 

Is it loud without the tuner hooked up?

 

Haven't unhooked it to see. It was on the truck when I bought it. Have only had it about a month.

 

Anybody have any input? Please?

 

I know once I did the hutch mod and removed the quick connects from before the fuel pump to the tank my engine was a lot quieter. Maybe air getting into the fuel line?

 

Some tuners make it louder then normal. Do you have the FRX installed? Need to pop the valve covers and check the injector torq also. I had do all that and change #8 before it all went away. Haven't done the tank mods yet but that is next. All this should quite it done some. How many miles on your injectors? What year truck? All these things make a difference.

 

It's a '01. I assume they are the factory injectors. It has 185,000 miles on it. I have only had it a little over a month.

 

Some guys go a long time with know problem but that's what I got on my e99 and it isn't as quite as It should be either. I know Dp tuner, that's what I have are louder out of the box. You need to take care of what every buddy has said above to make sure it is leak and air free then go from there. I like my Dp F5, I've got 9 tunes but you can tell right off from stock tune to others its louder.

 

What inch lb. should the injectors be torqued at?

 

120" lbs. using a torque wrench that is in the inch pound scale...20-150"lbs. would be ideal.

Also, while you are under there, check the rocker bolt torque = 240" lbs. using a torque wrench rated for approximately up to 250-300" lbs.

There is a reason for this and I'll include the link:
cditorque.com

 

Some of the contributors on here, I am one of them, will suggest that you torque to the above specs while the engine is at or very near full operating temperature. Others may disagree. Take both opinions into consideration and make a decision. It is your truck at the end of the day.

You will find that you will get an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn at the same torque setting when doing it with an engine that is hot, ie re-torquing, after torquing them down on a cold engine on a fresh install.

Also, start by having your torque wrench set to 75" lbs. If any of them turn at this level, you may as well replace the o-rings on not only that injector but all of them.

 

So I have decided that if I'm going to tear into the valve cover, I might as well change the O-rings on the injectors while I'm in there. Was just wondering if there is anything I should be careful of when I have the injectors out. I am going to pull them one at a time so as to not mix up where they came from. I have read a few post about switching #2 injector with #8 injector and that it could help with the knocking. Anybody have any input on this? Any advice would be appreciated and thanks for all the advice so far.


Also the injector O-rings that I have ordered are the Dorman brand. Are these ok to use or should I get a different brand? And will I have to replace the VC gaskets when I pull them off? Thanks again!

 

Gaskets should be fine unless something show up on removal. I would only use OEM. I believe that's what Clay sell at Riffraff.

 

How are your glow plugs? Pull them whether you replace them or not. Less than $100 replaces them. OHM out your UVCH's. Follow the instructions provided by the guys on here for pulling your injectors, back ones first, use oil liberally when placing the new o-rings and again when putting them back in their respective holes. Turn the engine over by hand while the GP's are still out for several turns before using the starter for the final purge of the cylinders. Then put the GP's in. Re-torque when the engine is hot.

Look for any sign of rust on your injectors and get a mirror or a fiber scope to look for any signs of a cracked injector cup.

Unless you do a really great job of draining the heads of fuel, change the oil.

 

Is it ok to start the engine with the VCs off and the turbo tubes removed in order to warm it up for re-torque?