Vacuum Regulator Valve.
I am posting the following link to the complete and accurate VRV adjustment procedure with images. The 3 images include 1) The complete text instructions from which I removed an unrelated drawing and 2 other images which are drawings of the VRV and gauge block installation. These are exact licensed scan copies from the original 1987 Ford Light Truck, Bronco, Econoline Shop Manuals, specifically the Light Truck, Bronco, Econoline Body Chassis Electrical Manual.

I am very sure that the linked webpage content fully complies with the 'Fair Use' provisions of US Copyright Laws

Read each step of the procedure VERY CAREFULLY several times because it is very easy to misunderstand an important detail and make a simple error during the adjustment procedure which can lead to many failed attempts unless you have a written copy present to confirm the correctness of each step.

I have additional advice for you based on my adjustment attempts which I will post in a reply to this one as soon as I can piece it together.

Vacuum Regulator Valve Adjustment 1987 Ford Diesel Photos by Fixnstuff | Photobucket

I am posting this link for several reasons:
1) I have not seen a correct word for word copy of these instructions posted anywhere in the Pre-Powerstroke forum. (some close but not exact). The complete instructions can be confusing in places and must be followed exactly so anything less than a word for word copy can be more confusing.

2) I have a couple of new topic threads to post ASAP related to the Vacuum Regulator Valve so posting this one first would make a good reference point with good timing. One topic will be a description of a temporary external remedy/fix for a defective VRV which I figured out and it worked for me.

3) The other topic will be a status report on the pending manufacture and future availability of this essential part based upon my own brief investigations. I'll be inviting comment from any experienced Ford Parts Specialist (or similar) to help further clarify if necessary an important term used by Ford Motor Company. The term is 'Resolution Process'. Also inviting comments from anyone who can help shed some light upon this issue

Thanks,
Fixnstuff

1987 F250 XLT Lariat Supercab 6.9L C6

 

What is the address in the manual for this? (ie the 25 20 03 sort of thing)

 

17-10 C6 Automatic Transmission. Specifically at 17-10-4 and 17-10-5

That is from the 1987 Shop manuals, in Body Chassis, Electrical . Precise page could differ in later manuals but C6 Automatic Transmission should get you very close, it's in the C6 transmission index.

From a compatibility listing from a large OEM parts supplier (on eBay) This specific part FOTZ-7B200-A was used in all light truck diesels from 1987 to 1996. In previous years the part may differ slightly so,, can anyone here confirm that the adjustment instructions are correct for earlier model years?

Thanks

 

Here is an excellent source for information and instructions from the Ford Shop Manuals. You will certainly want to mark this site if you don't have shop manuals.

IMPORTANT (see the second link; Technical Service Bulletin)

Ford Workshop Manuals > F 350 2WD Pickup V8-6.9L DSL (1983) > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Vacuum Regulator Valve, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Vacuum

VERY IMPORTANT: Here is a link to a Service Bulletin from Nov. 1991 on the VRV.
Ford Workshop Manuals > F 350 2WD Pickup V8-6.9L DSL (1983) > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Vacuum Regulator Valve, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 912413 > Nov > 91

Here is why it is important: Failure to get proper and working adjustment on the VRV can be caused by a bad vacuum line to the transmission OR a defective transmission modulator valve. Furthermore; by only checking for leaking transmission fluid at the modulator without doing a vacuum test on the modulator will not confirm with certainty if the modulator is good or bad, eg; if there is no leaking transmission fluid at the modulator the modulator can still be defective. My statement is based on the wording in the Shop manual which states that if the modulator does not hold 18 in-Hg (they used an electric vacuum pump set at 18 in-Hg but I've been told that a hand vac. pump should work) it needs to be replaced OR if it is leaking transm. fluid it needs to be replaced. I asked a retired professional mechanic who owned a shop in Las Vegas and he told me that is correct, it can be defective without leaking fluid, admitting however that he's less familiar with the C6 than other transmissions. Confirmation of this from any source would be welcomed.

My transmission vac. modulator was NOT leaking fluid so I assumed it was good. The next day I put a vacuum pump on the line going to the transmission from the other end of the line located at the VRV and I could not hold any vacuum. At the time I didn't know if this was normal. I went on to adjust the VRV. I was able to get the proper adjustment but STILL the transmission would not shift correctly, symptoms consistent with a defective VRV. BUT NOW, I assume there is a problem with the line or the transmission vacuum modulator so I'm going out to check those now. My VRV may in fact be good! I sure hope so.

A new VRV is not available from Ford and other sources have been depleted. It is on back-order at Ford BUT the current status is that ford is negotiating with the manufacturer in a 'Resolution process' to determine when it will be delivered to Ford and possibly IF in fact it will be manufactured again. IF this resolution process is not successful the part will be determined 'obsolete' and won't become available from Ford.

That's scary! I wish I knew if in fact the manufacturer has agreed to manufacture the part again and that the only thing left to resolve is the delivery date. Other evidence I have only suggests that the part will become available again sometime this summer, June, July or later.

Meanwhile, if my VRV is bad I am going to have to repair it myself. Vrv's in general are not very complicated but I do not know what the internal components look like in this one. It could be something simple to fix.
Has anyone seen the insides of one?

Thanks, Fixnstuff
-----------------------
1987 XLT Lariat Super Cab, 6.9L idi, C-6 auto, Dana Limited Slip, Capacity: Over 8500, Gear Ratio: 3.55. EGT gauge, Banks Power Pack air cleaner(??), bucket seats/console. Purchased Feb. 2015. I'm passionate about getting everything restored including interior and a new paint job. That will take awhile

 

There are a number of websites that are selling "new old stock" VRVs. I purchased a brand new one about a year ago, I think it was from an ebay store. Anyways, If you know the part # for the one you need for your model year truck, you should be able to find one. On the other hand, I highly doubt that you would see any Ford dealerships that have them in stock or even most auto parts stores for that matter.

 

I checked the vacuum line and transmission vac. modulator at the same time by pulling the rubber connector at the VRV and checking the lower line from the connector to the transmission. It held vacuum without leaking at any point I measured from 3 in-Hg to 20+ in-Hg so this is not the problem in my case.

Just before my first attempt to adjust the VRV I was getting 4 in-Hg in the vacuum line at the transmission modulator so I don't think it is obstructed but I'll test the line again to be certain.

I'm back to square 1.

The only problem I was having with the transmission before messing with the VRV was
a quick and harsh shift, shifting at the right speeds and the kick-down working as it should.

In retrospect that was acceptable until a new VRV becomes available. If I can get that setting again I'll leave it alone.

The VRV adjustment was originally set very close the back of the adjustment (toward the firewall) with about 1/8 in slot travel remaining. I could never find that adjustment point again using trial and error after many adjustment attempts with vacuum pump an gauges had failed.

I can't figure out why I can get the specified vacuum settings with the adjustment procedure but it still doesn't work. I can get the 7 in-Hg setting with the gauge block and 20 in-Hg at idle stop and still it's not working.

I'll be starting all over again to make sure I am doing everything right.

This time I'll double check and confirm each time after making the setting and driving the truck that the settings have in fact held. If not, then the VRV must be faulty.

I apologize if my posts are too long. I'm taking some very strong medication that significantly reduces my focus, concentration, short term memory and attention span. In trying to make sure that everything I write is accurate and correct I sometimes write too much or repeat something.

Thanks,
Fixnstuff

 

Thank you very sincerely, 86-IDI for your helpful intentions, it's appreciated.

YES there may be a few parts still hiding out there and I did find 3 listings. 2 came from a parts searching service who found the part in two tiny little towns one in Texas and one in Kansas. I sent an email to the supplier in Texas which was probably delivered by a pack mule and I did not get a reply. I probably should have sent a canteen with some water in it. I skipped the other one and another one is mentioned further below

Perhaps I could have found more listings but I'm not sure that I want to buy an old old part.

The Ford part number in this case is FOTZ-7B200-A for all light truck diesels from 87-96. The "New Old Stock" part numbers changed the prefix to something like EZT *** with the same numbers at the end. I've searched both part numbers and I am very very good at searching the web and finding difficult to find stuff.

I've found that these 'numbers of websites' who currently list the "new old stock" part, or other similar description of it, do not in fact have the part anymore. You might not know until you get to the final checkout. The listing may stay up because it draws customers to the site.

That being said, these sites did not stock large numbers of this part and there are far fewer now than a year ago when you bought yours. Your source was probably oemselectautoparts on eBay who apparently sucked up all the 'old new stock' from the dealerships. (They mention that this is how they get OEM parts somewhere in their profile information). According to their eBay history apparently they have not had this part for quite awhile. (months??? or longer) They are now listing and selling the brand new part which in fact they do not have in stock to ship and apparently have not had in stock for as long as they've been selling it. If you buy one now they are estimating a delivery date to you in July but they keep moving this estimated delivery date further back. (because) They too are waiting for this negotiation and resolution process between Ford and the part manufacturer to be finally resolved with an actual delivery date determined and that is where their part will be coming from. They are gambling on that resolution to be successful but who knows if it will be or not? I am hoping that at least oemselectautoparts has some inside information and they know that the part WILL be manufactured and delivered at some time in the future..

The problem with a "new old stock" part is that it could have been on the shelf for 19-32 years (maybe less than 19 years) during which time the internal components may have died from old age and gone to heaven. The 'old new part' might not last long so I would certainly prefer to buy the brand new part rather than buying an old one and buying a new one again a year later. I am on low income Soc. Security Disability and can't afford that. I've spent every penny I have on this truck and have even borrowed money from the Pay Day Loans sharks to buy parts. I love the truck and want to get it fixed before end of summer and then use it and a trailer to move out of this State. (western Washington State, a very wet and gloomy area most of the year).

BTW, the last year that I am aware of that this part was being made is 2007 which is the date on mine.

I did find another source for the part, an OTR related trucking business that wanted to charge $34.00 for tax and shipping. I'm not certain if they have the part or not because I stopped when I saw the shipping cost. The site stated that the shipping costs are based on the COST of the part. I refused to complete the order based on principles, simply because that method is CRUDE and UNPROFESSIONAL. If you bought from them for one million dollars, a cigarette butt that Elvis Presley left in an ashtray at a truck stop and the seller was only 15 miles away, the cost of tax and shipping would be about $340,000.00 which is quite high for a 42 cent stamp and envelope. If they add handling costs to that cigarette butt, how much then?? Now, if you buy Elmer Sludges sunken but salvaged tugboat from them for $1.00 at auction for spare parts and it weighs 91 Tons, then the tax and shipping would be....bzzzbzzzzbzzzzz: 34 CENTS!!

That illustrates why that method is unprofessional.

It looks like they are trying to gouge profit by tampering with the shipping cost which seems shady.

I should be my nice normal self and inform this diesel truck business shopkeeper that he should do it differently. We know the part is hard to find now, Just raise the cost of the part based on it's scarcity and that is acceptable. I might not like the price but it looks better than tampering with the shipping cost. I'll try to remember to send a link to this post to that dealer because I am sure they are very nice people with good intentions but just didn't use a good method to figure out how to get a fair price they need for the part.

The best thing for me right now would be repairing the VRV that I have but I can't risk tearing it apart yet because I must be able to move my truck every few days, it's parked on the street. I think the answer is to start a new thread addressing that question, like "VRV defective - is it possible to repair(?) and ask if anyone has looked at the insides.

I'll bet it is something simple like, a bad spring, warn edges of a piston or cylinder or valve seat. Something worn and leaking vacuum. That should be easy to remedy somehow at least for awhile until a new one can be obtained.

This was a long post which is considerably off-topic but I'm too tired to edit it so I'll let it go.

Thank you,
Fixnstuff

 

I bought this one. Fixed my shift probs immediately .


NEW Ford Transmission Vacuum Throttle Regulator Valve TP Sensor 7 3 Diesel | eBay


I also removed my kick down rod as it was a bent mess.