So I've had the new trailer here at the house since March 28. Been slowly messing with it and stocking it, along with a progressive ems unit. It's been plugged in on and off but not consistent as I don't have the 30A outlet installed on the house yet. Today I went out and tried to lower the landing gear, and nothing. Got the adapters out and plugged it in, did what I needed to do and it's been plugged in since. Nothing was left on in the trailer.


Never had a camper with all these bells and whistles and a battery before. The first thing that comes to mind to me is a battery cutoff switch for when it's sitting in the driveway, or a small (110V) trickle charger like I have in the dump trailer. Is this something common, or should I be adding it to the list of things to have the dealer look at?

 

Can't really tell if you have a problem as there is not enough information here. Your propane detector will start to give an off and on beep when your battery reaches abotu 10 VDC. Was it sounding off? Did your lights work at all? Normally you figure a battery will draw down in about a week to two weeks. You had the refrigerator switched off? Propane detector is always hot, if you have a battery connected.

A disconnect is a very reasonable addition and I add one to all our towables, if they do not have one. You can also simply disconnect the negative lead off the battery.

Take your volt meter and check the voltage at our battery when you are plugged in. Do you see over 13 VDC? If you do, your converter is most likely good.

Steve

 

New trailer should have a cutoff where the battery mounts.


check the water level in the battery.


I make it a practice to turn the cutoff switch. Easy to leave a light on somewhere.

 

Most travel trailers and many fivers lack disconnects. A simple and cheap add-on, if your RV does not have one.

 

I replaced the cheap toggle switch in mine with this : works great and can't be accidentally turned on or off. Remember to always turn the battery on before towing if you have electric brakes, that's how the safety disconnect operates the brakes if you accidentally unhitch.

 

I use a 15a to 30a to 50a cheater plug to my shore power... It keeps the invertor / battery charging system powered and the batteries are maintained.. Also have the master cut-off sw for the 2 12v batteries...

 

There are several manufacturers that make similar components. I use the same thing.

 

Steve, in reply to your first post it was absolutely stone dead. Didn't go inside before I plugged it in, but the hitching LEDS wouldn't even glow. I had checked the battery monitor on the panel last I was in it, and it was four lights, quite possibly it was just reading a surface charge.


Looks like I will be installing a cutoff switch in it. I haven't seen one anywhere in there. Will get that done and clean up some wiring in there this weekend. I've had it plugged into shore power with a 15A adapter all day. Meant to open the battery box up and verify charging with a meter but didn't get to it tonight, go sidetracked trying to plan some more camping trips! Will add that to the list of things to do over the weekend. Thanks guys.

 

I'm surprised that a '15 trailer doesn't have a battery switch - but possibly not as it's just an added cost

Assuming that it doesn't have one as you said, I'm suggesting that you don't purchase an inexpensive one. The good ones are mostly made by Cole - Hersee and reboxed. The ones I've been using are generally branded as Longacre and for race car applications and are very heavy duty. Marinco also sells a pretty good one too (I think it's a BEP). They also should be installed on the + side as most racing organizations require.

 

The Battery Doctor switches are very well made and feel very solid. They meet ISO 8846 standards for use in explosive atmospheres. They cost more than the Marinco's and oddly look very similar. I really think they might be the same switch. I have used mine for 3 years now and it still works great.

 

I'm a heavy equipment mechanic and we stock the Cole Hersee stuff in our parts department, that's what I'll be using. As far as what side to install it on, I'll be doing it on the negative side. Disconnecting the positive leaves it hot up to the switch, while disconnecting side kills everything.

 

This might be a relevant thread to this discussion: I was told by an RV tech at the dealership that 2 customers came in with equipment violations from the State Police citing incorrect power wiring to the breakaway brake activation switch. They were $160 fines for the tickets. They customers were told that the battery feed to the emergency brake switch cannot be switched on and off. My trailer is not wired this way, and I don't know of any that are. Does anyone have any information on this issue?

 

Michigan?

Pop

 

Not sure, apparently happened last summer. I don't know the circumstances as to why or how they were inspected. The dealer had to correct the "infraction" and certify the work was done so they could take it to court. Michigan laws don't appear to even require a breakaway switch. I think Federal regs do.

 

Believe it or not, the requirement for a breakaway switch is still left up to the individual states.

I tow a small enclosed utility trailer across six states annually, and a travel trailer across various Western and Midwestern states frequently. It gets complicated to comply with each of their towing laws, but can be done if one "reads up".

Some states require only one safety chain, most set it at two. One state won't allow the chains to be welded to the frame of the trailer. Some require the chains to be crossed, others don't mention it.

Some set the requirement for brakes at 3500 pounds, one sets it at 1500. For an amusement, look up the ones for Texas! There, you can tow up to 15,000 completely WITHOUT brakes (some "qualifiers", however).

Some have lower speed limits when towing, others do not.

The marking, reflector, and lighting requirements can vary, too.

But it CAN be done!

Pop