DC Power 270XP alt died today
#31
#32
250Amp High Amp Fits Alternator F F450 F550 Series Excursion 6 0L V8 2004 2007 | eBay
#33
#35
I'll give some feedback after I take it to a local shop. I hope they can fix it for me.
When I spoke with DC power, they did not mention anything about free labor or lifetime labor. Over 2 yrs, and the warranty is done. They would call me with a repair quote after they got to look at it.
Bottom line is stick with a lifetime warranty stock type unit unless you have some serious power needs and then probably stick with a local shop so you have someone close to scream at if it all goes wrong.
When I spoke with DC power, they did not mention anything about free labor or lifetime labor. Over 2 yrs, and the warranty is done. They would call me with a repair quote after they got to look at it.
Bottom line is stick with a lifetime warranty stock type unit unless you have some serious power needs and then probably stick with a local shop so you have someone close to scream at if it all goes wrong.
#36
#37
So let me get this straight, they included the 4 month wait time in the warranty period?!
So you've only have it on the truck for say 2 years 3 months but they say that it is out of warranty? That's wrong. It doesn't work like that, atleast it shouldn't. If that is how they are treating you I can't believe they are still in business.
So you've only have it on the truck for say 2 years 3 months but they say that it is out of warranty? That's wrong. It doesn't work like that, atleast it shouldn't. If that is how they are treating you I can't believe they are still in business.
#38
I bought a Bosch AL7606N from Amazon in June, 2014 and it works perfectly. Below is my post from June when I installed the alternator.
Installed New Bosch AL7606N Alternator Today
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message -->
The Bosch alternator was purchased from Amazon for $157.05 plus Texas sales tax of $11.39. Ordered on Monday and delivered on Sunday. No shipping charges or core charge.
The alternator is new, not remanufactured, and it says it is assembled in the USA. It comes with a lifetime guarantee and a two year roadside assist if the alternator fails which means a jump or a tow, whichever is necessary. This is a 135-140 Amp unit which replaces the 110 Amp OEM unit that was original equipment. Installation of the unit is straightforward as the three mounting bolts line up perfectly and the electrical connections are the same as OEM and in the same places as the OEM unit.
Now the hard part. The tensioner has apparently gotten old and cranky. I pulled with both hands, used pry bars, a universal tool from Harbor Freight which didn't work and tried to roll the alternator up with the belt over the pulley. I posted a request for information how to remove the air deflector on the top of the shroud and thanks to some advice from Bullit, I removed the deflector. I placed a 2x4 across the top radiator brackets and slipped a 3/4" pipe under the belt and pried the belt up and placed the pipe on the left hand bolt (as I am looking at the alternator) and it rested there. Still not enough clearance to set the tab on the tensioner so I had a friend apply some more muscle and that gave me the space to set the tab. Placed the belt on the alternator pulley, checked the alignment with the other pulleys, pried up on the belt again and this was enough to disturb the tensioner and the belt seated properly. If I have to change this belt again, I think I will do it next to a tree and use a come-a-long or buy the special tool that is advertised for 6.0's.
The results are as follows: At 50 MPH on the road it puts out 13.6-13.8 volts with an occasional fluctuation of a high of 14.2 volts and a low of 13.2 volts in the beginning. At idle, after being warmed up, I was getting 13.6-13.7 volts with AC on and headlights on. Starting, I'm getting a quick dip into the 11's after the glow plug light goes out and with the starter turning and then it climbs up to 13 volts and then on to the 13.6-13/8 range when the glow plugs turn off. All results were considerably better than the OEM unit. I believe this alternator will meet our needs.
I still haven't figured out how to do a proper quote with a blue background. If anyone can help out an analog man trying to make it in a digital world, I would be appreciative.
Installed New Bosch AL7606N Alternator Today
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message -->
The Bosch alternator was purchased from Amazon for $157.05 plus Texas sales tax of $11.39. Ordered on Monday and delivered on Sunday. No shipping charges or core charge.
The alternator is new, not remanufactured, and it says it is assembled in the USA. It comes with a lifetime guarantee and a two year roadside assist if the alternator fails which means a jump or a tow, whichever is necessary. This is a 135-140 Amp unit which replaces the 110 Amp OEM unit that was original equipment. Installation of the unit is straightforward as the three mounting bolts line up perfectly and the electrical connections are the same as OEM and in the same places as the OEM unit.
Now the hard part. The tensioner has apparently gotten old and cranky. I pulled with both hands, used pry bars, a universal tool from Harbor Freight which didn't work and tried to roll the alternator up with the belt over the pulley. I posted a request for information how to remove the air deflector on the top of the shroud and thanks to some advice from Bullit, I removed the deflector. I placed a 2x4 across the top radiator brackets and slipped a 3/4" pipe under the belt and pried the belt up and placed the pipe on the left hand bolt (as I am looking at the alternator) and it rested there. Still not enough clearance to set the tab on the tensioner so I had a friend apply some more muscle and that gave me the space to set the tab. Placed the belt on the alternator pulley, checked the alignment with the other pulleys, pried up on the belt again and this was enough to disturb the tensioner and the belt seated properly. If I have to change this belt again, I think I will do it next to a tree and use a come-a-long or buy the special tool that is advertised for 6.0's.
The results are as follows: At 50 MPH on the road it puts out 13.6-13.8 volts with an occasional fluctuation of a high of 14.2 volts and a low of 13.2 volts in the beginning. At idle, after being warmed up, I was getting 13.6-13.7 volts with AC on and headlights on. Starting, I'm getting a quick dip into the 11's after the glow plug light goes out and with the starter turning and then it climbs up to 13 volts and then on to the 13.6-13/8 range when the glow plugs turn off. All results were considerably better than the OEM unit. I believe this alternator will meet our needs.
I still haven't figured out how to do a proper quote with a blue background. If anyone can help out an analog man trying to make it in a digital world, I would be appreciative.
#39
Local alternator shop said $150 to repair. The guy in there said in the future save your money. I actually got a bit reamed out by him.
He just fixed one off a Dodge with the same trouble - 2 yrs old. He will not warranty it. In fact, he almost guaranteed it would break again.
He said the real problem is heat dissipation and that they have not done nearly enough to improve that. They are making too much power for such a small unit. He has been doing alternator repair for 30+ yrs.
He just fixed one off a Dodge with the same trouble - 2 yrs old. He will not warranty it. In fact, he almost guaranteed it would break again.
He said the real problem is heat dissipation and that they have not done nearly enough to improve that. They are making too much power for such a small unit. He has been doing alternator repair for 30+ yrs.
#40
I would bet that the majority of the units they sell never come close to using max output which would keep them from heating up. Other than the short time after start with the glow plugs on they are not working hard so heat isn't an issue. Run a plow and or a winch everyday and it will fry. My 140 amp from advance auto is working fine.
#41
#43
Here is some follow-up. The local alternator shop determined there was a bad diode in the rectifier. He felt it would be best to replace the entire rectifier since it is likely the entire part is compromised. $160 out the door.
He says it may last years, or maybe just months. He has been in the business for over 30 yrs. Talked about all the proper ways to make more power - ambulances and firetrucks etc. He said they are all much bigger units - 2-3 times the physical size. He says all of these aftermarket units fail due to HEAT. He also said a dual alternator factory set-up will make more power than any regular sized aftermarket unit. Food for thought.
He says it may last years, or maybe just months. He has been in the business for over 30 yrs. Talked about all the proper ways to make more power - ambulances and firetrucks etc. He said they are all much bigger units - 2-3 times the physical size. He says all of these aftermarket units fail due to HEAT. He also said a dual alternator factory set-up will make more power than any regular sized aftermarket unit. Food for thought.
#44
Here is some follow-up. The local alternator shop determined there was a bad diode in the rectifier. He felt it would be best to replace the entire rectifier since it is likely the entire part is compromised. $160 out the door.
He says it may last years, or maybe just months. He has been in the business for over 30 yrs. Talked about all the proper ways to make more power - ambulances and firetrucks etc. He said they are all much bigger units - 2-3 times the physical size. He says all of these aftermarket units fail due to HEAT. He also said a dual alternator factory set-up will make more power than any regular sized aftermarket unit. Food for thought.
He says it may last years, or maybe just months. He has been in the business for over 30 yrs. Talked about all the proper ways to make more power - ambulances and firetrucks etc. He said they are all much bigger units - 2-3 times the physical size. He says all of these aftermarket units fail due to HEAT. He also said a dual alternator factory set-up will make more power than any regular sized aftermarket unit. Food for thought.
Possibly to re-wire for both to be on at all times or a manual switch to trigger the secondary alternator.
Josh
#45