okay so the deal here my buddy has an 87 150 with the 300 l6 in it and as I would hope we know that it was the first year that they did EFI and his was screwing up so we yanked the old throttle body and got and old cast intake and a carter YFA 1bbl and installed it. It is currently running and driving. but the only issue now is that the fix we tried for the choke (running a copper line to the exhaust and wrapping it around) Is not heating up the choke spring enough to open it up. It is stalling out when the motor is up to temp at stops. I am looking for Ideas on how to either make a new stove for the line or get the choke to open up manually. I am fairly certain this is the last major issue. We have all the vacume hoses hooked up and running to the right places after some fab.

 

IIRC the YFA has a vacuum pull-off for the choke. Is it connected? And adjusted?

On the hot air, that should work if air is being pulled through it. Is there a vacuum pulling air through the copper tubing? And, did you run it back to the air cleaner to get clean air?

 

the biggest issue is that this is on a motor it is not supposed to be the exhaust manifold that came with the intake did not match th bolt pattern for some reason on the head. I notices the stove in it to hook up the line too. there is no vacuum line hookup on the choke to pull hot air through. Might it work if we hook up the electric assist to a 12v instead of 6 and completely eliminate the hot air tube. Also we are going to have to fab our own filter pan we couldn't find one at a parts house or junkyard that would fit.

 

Yes, the electric choke might do the trick. But, I'm not sure I'd hook it to 12v as it might burn out. However, if it does there should be 12v units in the salvage that will fit.

They originally ran off the Stator terminal on the alternator, which gives about 7v when running. You might try that first.

 

the alternator that is on there now is still EFI controlled so there is no stater hookup. because I read that somewhere else and we looked for it for about 45. but It worked enough to get it inspected with the 12v but it got really hot so we are gonna try to bring it down to 6-7v

 

I think the alternator is a 2G rather than "EFI controlled" since even the carb'd engines got them. The earlier trucks had the 1G, which were externally regulated and had an external fan. Then Ford had a bright idea and included the regulator in the alternator but left the external fan. However, the connections were poorly designed and the "bright idea" became a "red hot" one and many vehicles burned up. So they came out with the 3G, which has both an internal regulator and internal fan, but good solid connections.

If your buddy's truck has the 2G you should consider an upgrade. If not, at least replace the pigtail as that is where the fire usually starts, and it is always supposed to be replaced when the alternator is replaced.

 

Or, for ~$15 at the "Help" section of any parts store, a manual choke conversion kit could be purchased. They work fine and work as a theft deterrent to those who have no clue to "old school" ideas!

 

I would go manual or electric.

The electric choke choke cap would be the simplest. and cheapest ... $10

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomco-9104-Carburetor-Choke-Thermostat-Ford-1970-79-D0DZ-9848A-D4PZ-9848J/351357030702?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D9e5057b6c183401d833169ca6dbfb7f3%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D361240830336
Here is a good thread to read, be sure and read the whole thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...arter-yfa.html

Jim

 

well I thank you all for the help and Ideas but the big picture was to get it to pass inspection today which didn't happen because in the state of north Carolina "everything has to be as it was when it left the factory" although it doesn't have to pass emissions. so this short term switch has just turned into a long term build so when we start adding the ballsy parts I will start posting picks of the progress.