My 85 has a 351w with a C6. When I bought the truck, the starter sounded funny every time I cranked the motor over. I bought a re-man starter at autozone and it lasted about 3 months. It would just spin like the teeth wernt engaging on the flexplate. I took it out and sure enough the teeth were sheared. So I warrantied out the starter thinking that I got a bad re-maned one. This next starter lasted about a month before it did the same thing as the last one. I was short on cash so I got under the truck with a ratchet and socket and spun the motor by hand and then gave it a try. It worked like that until payday when I was able to go to autozone for yet another warranty. But when I looked at the flexplate when I took the old one off, the teeth were sheared. So I got a new flexplate and put it on and put my freshly warrantied re-man starter in and it lasted two days. I went to autozone and argued with them and they upgraded me to a lifetime starter. That starter also lasted two days before it started freely spinning... Does anyone know what the hell is going on?

 

The only two things I've heard of are 1) the starter gear and flex plate aren't aligned properly, the gears are meshing up but the starter gear isn't centered on the flex plate, depending on which way it's misaligned either make sure you're really torquing those bolts down, or instal a shim between the starter and the guardplate
2) count the teeth on your original starter, and count the teeth on the ones you're buying, if they are different, at some point during the rotation they will no longer mesh up and you'll have to find a starter with the same amount of teeth.
Those are problems I've heard of, but I'm sure there's others on here that know more or have been down your road! Believe me, you came to the right place!

 

Starter drives for manual transmission engines are 5/16" shorter than the auto trans starters.

Both will fit & engage; but if you have a manual starter, the pinion gear will be in the wrong position, & only driving on a part of the teeth.

 

Wow I never new that, its getting close to time to replace my daughters, was checking oriellys website and they have 2 starters listed for the exact same price, however they dont specify manual or automatic, however I did note the model numbers are exactly the same with the exception the second starter has an M after the model number. Good to know, thanks

 

Rockauto specify manual or auto on their starters.

 

i just ordered a high torque starter from summit for my 351w i have a c5 transmission i've been going thru starters too! so i'm doing a tune up plus tracing ground wires just to be sure this time.

 

How tight does the bottom starter bolt fit in the threads?

 

are you talking torque specs? IIRC its 15-20 ft lbs

 

No, does the bolt wobble in the threads loosely? that's been known to be a problem around here.

 

I just went through this on my 85 Bronk. It has like an 87 block plate
as close as we can figure. I too ate starter drives at about 0ne a month
with the new flex plate. I tried all kids of tricks and tips. BUT in the end
I got a 10 tooth drive for a 1.9 escort as the original is only a 9 tooth.
This has cured it. Napa said they have a 10 tooth starter after all this
But I have not had to try that. I have a couple of threads on here about
this problem. You may do well to check them out before it eats another
ring gear. In my threads there is a guy that has tried the mini starter
as I did. It was worse and did not even touch the teeth.
Here are the links I hope. Go close to the last pages.

Arctic's 85 Bronco Thread. Ya We Need Help - Page 18 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Arctic's Bronk is DOA - Page 3 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Arctic's Bronco is down. - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

I would like to add that even though the Bronk is a bit out of time and likes to
kick back when hot, It never fails to catch and start now. I am well pleased.
Thank You FTE.

 

Interesting note on this topic, the starter on my daughter's truck gave up the ghost yesterday (Its been a long time coming).


So I removed it, ran down to Orielly's to pick up an automatic starter. Come to find out they only have one starter (two are listed on their website and in their store computer) both have the same model number and the one with the M listed behind the model number only signifies that I comes out of the Houston warehouse (at least that is what the manager told me). With my old starter in hand I compared all three and they were exactly the same size (pinion and nose plug).


So $50 later and her truck starts and runs like new.


Just thought I would close the loop on anyone chasing an auto or manual starter. I'm just glad I don't have a manual, as I've seen all the problems folks are having here with proper mesh.

 

The problem with manual trucks is that the flywheel is thicker and the ring gear sits farther forward.
An automatic starter will never pull out of mesh and the starter bendix is destroyed the first time the engine runs.

 

The bolts fit snugly and are tight. Also, upon closer examination of the gear on the starter, it looks like only the tips of the teeth are engaging.

 

Furr,
The teeth are meant to be radiused at the tip.

Try some R&P setup paste and check depth of engagement.

You might compare the height of the 'nosecone' between auto and manual starters at an auto parts store.
I'm not sure if a manual starter would even engage a flexplate.

 

Sorry, I should have included this in the original post. But on the previous starters, the tips were ground flat. This one is starting to look similar, and thats telling me that the gear isnt meshing hardly at all