99 F250 4X4 Leveling kit
#1
#2
ONE WORD OF CAUTION- because you have a 99...
Post up the build date on your door jam sticker, because there is an "early 99" and a "late 99," and the major difference between the two is the front suspension. Almost always, when someone advertises front suspension parts "for a 99-04 Super Duty," they actually mean "LATE 99-04."
Post up the build date on your door jam sticker, because there is an "early 99" and a "late 99," and the major difference between the two is the front suspension. Almost always, when someone advertises front suspension parts "for a 99-04 Super Duty," they actually mean "LATE 99-04."
#3
I ran into that when buying new brake rotors. It has the early style. According to my VIN, it was built on 4-2-99 which is very close to that March transition date. So I think it has the earlier front suspension too. The U bolts are nearly square cornered instead of slightly rounded which is another indicator.
#4
You can upgrade to MOST of the newer (and less expensive) parts, as I did on my early 99.
The late 99 and up hub assemblies (not to be confused with locking hubs- I mean the actual hub assemblies) are a direct bolt-in BUT you have to install the late-99 and up brake rotors to go with it. What happens is, the late vs. early hub assemblies place the rotor face in a slightly different location- and the matching rotors make up for that difference. The main advantage to upgrading is the early hub assemblies are considerably more expensive. I also recommend going with the Timken brand hub bearings, not the Precision brand. I researched this topic quite thoroughly when I did my swap a few years ago.
Then, the only issue you might have is if you need to switch to an adjustable track bar. The track bar on an early 99 is also different- smaller in diameter and the bolt holes are smaller. I don't know anyone who makes an adjustable track bar for an early 99 (I imagine someone does, I just don't know who). You might not need to change it, it depends on how tall you lift/level the front. But it is something to keep in mind.
The late 99 and up hub assemblies (not to be confused with locking hubs- I mean the actual hub assemblies) are a direct bolt-in BUT you have to install the late-99 and up brake rotors to go with it. What happens is, the late vs. early hub assemblies place the rotor face in a slightly different location- and the matching rotors make up for that difference. The main advantage to upgrading is the early hub assemblies are considerably more expensive. I also recommend going with the Timken brand hub bearings, not the Precision brand. I researched this topic quite thoroughly when I did my swap a few years ago.
Then, the only issue you might have is if you need to switch to an adjustable track bar. The track bar on an early 99 is also different- smaller in diameter and the bolt holes are smaller. I don't know anyone who makes an adjustable track bar for an early 99 (I imagine someone does, I just don't know who). You might not need to change it, it depends on how tall you lift/level the front. But it is something to keep in mind.
#5
The brake rotors for the early style are actually cheaper. I first got the later version from Autozone, installed it and the wheel was locked up. I took the wheel back off and it was free. WTF! I then looked closely at it and seen the new one was slightly thicker around the hub area. I took it back and got the early style and it was $10 less.
Anyway, I just want to raise the front end about 3 inches. Everything I read about these kits say no modifications needed, just bolt on. We'll see.
Anyway, I just want to raise the front end about 3 inches. Everything I read about these kits say no modifications needed, just bolt on. We'll see.
#6
After
Before
I installed this kit on my 1999 f350 (pre). Works great no issues. Sat perfectly level with the back until my rear springs started sagging. My recommendation is to do the rear 2" along with it. Gives it a great look. The retailers on eBay clearly mark which sets are for the early and late 99's. PM me if you need any more info!
I put 315/75/16's on it stock and this really front addition gave me perfect clearance with only a tiny bit of rubbing on my leaf springs.
#7
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#8
The brake rotors for the early style are actually cheaper. I first got the later version from Autozone, installed it and the wheel was locked up. I took the wheel back off and it was free. WTF! I then looked closely at it and seen the new one was slightly thicker around the hub area. I took it back and got the early style and it was $10 less.
#9
So just what are you getting for 80.00
The pictures in the e-bay add look like some type of tiny springs .
Any one ha e pictures of the actual part installed.
How is the ride once installed ?
On another note, psyclopse, if you change out the front hubs, do you not end up needing to change the rear lug nut studs as well .
I believe another one of the differences, was course threads or a different thread pitch .
Frankly, my 99 is a February build date, 02/09/99, and I will do everything possible to maintain the early parts, unless they just aren't available, or actually present a safety, or performance upgrade.
Reason for this is I already have a 3 ring binder , for my mustang, that has a listing of what part was changed, and with what ford part number.
It becomes difficult to remember what you have changed out , and If and when you sell , the poor guy that has to fight parts store employees because nothing is correct for the vin and build date.
The pictures in the e-bay add look like some type of tiny springs .
Any one ha e pictures of the actual part installed.
How is the ride once installed ?
On another note, psyclopse, if you change out the front hubs, do you not end up needing to change the rear lug nut studs as well .
I believe another one of the differences, was course threads or a different thread pitch .
Frankly, my 99 is a February build date, 02/09/99, and I will do everything possible to maintain the early parts, unless they just aren't available, or actually present a safety, or performance upgrade.
Reason for this is I already have a 3 ring binder , for my mustang, that has a listing of what part was changed, and with what ford part number.
It becomes difficult to remember what you have changed out , and If and when you sell , the poor guy that has to fight parts store employees because nothing is correct for the vin and build date.
#10
I have this exact kit installed.... Ride stayed the same... Maybe a little rougher. But it handles as smooth as a 99 f350. It's not Springs. More just a pack of blocks.
Between my father and I we have put these on 4 different 99-04 super dutys and they are worth the money. I've has mine on for 50k and his current one is about to hit 180k. No issues caused from it!
Between my father and I we have put these on 4 different 99-04 super dutys and they are worth the money. I've has mine on for 50k and his current one is about to hit 180k. No issues caused from it!
#11
I have a SIMILAR kit. I have the 2-1/2 leveling kit by Zone offroad. It came with an adjustable trackbar and i'm glad I went that way because I've heard of people having nightmares trying to get the front end together without it. I paid 500$ for the kit and it came with 4 new shocks. I love the way the truck rides with it, it was 10x better than the old saggy springs
#12
#13
I'm not sure when they switched threads (I'm sure I have it in my info somewhere). But I do know I converted my stuff with "2000" parts, and the threads were the same...
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