What are you torqueing to 400# the spindle nuts or wheel nuts?

 

Seating the wheel bearings, fleet told me to do 200 lbs then rotate then 400
Then back off a quarter of a turn

 

I don't have no reason can afford to buy a torque wrench to go to 500 lbs , mine goes to ether 250 or 300 lbs, so I am going to go to my max setting then and a little more by feel with a cheater bar , and hopefully it'll work, back when I was a kid working on my old ford small trucks, i never really ever used torque wrench, but I'm older now and should know better, i am on disability because of back and neck injuries, i am trying to make a little extra and be able to pull my rv to see family in other states, thank you all for your help

 

I thought those numbers looked high for wheel bearings, but I find similar numbers with a quick look at an Eaton PDF for some axle, the first thing I pulled up. You should be able to search out the specific shop manual for your axle if you didn't already. Eaton has tons of them on line.

Remember the torque should be applied with the hub turning. You want everything moving as it's tightened.

Good luck with it. Don't forget the lock washer....

 

That's way to tite. My 64 5-800 says titen inner nut to 50-80 ftlbs back off 3/8 turn. if have pin locking ring line up then titen outside nut 100-150 ftlbs. should spin freely with 0.001-0.010 end play.

 

Kev

Almost all medium duty and heavy duty trucks have L/H studs on driver side R/H on passenger side
Theory being as the wheel rotates the lug nut will tighten not loosen if not properly torqued

 

Well the other side is needing done now. So I will revisit the tourqe specs, now reading i think it said 50 to 80 lbs rotate wheel, then back off a quarter of a turn, then put the dowl lock washer then tighten the outside nut to the 200 the 400 lbs

 

Hey this sounds like what I'm just now getting into on my 68 n600.
Maybe you can help me!
In your search for parts did you get a contact for new drums? I need 2 bad.
Where did you find most of your parts?
I'm starting with Napa or that going to be a waste of time?
Check out my thread. I think you can search by my, imjstsitner.
Thanks for any parts direction you can give me.

 

If available, fleetpride is the place to look and way cheaper then napa

 

I made this years ago. Heavy wall tubing with a 1-1/2" socket welded on on end and budd socket on the other. I welded a 1-1/2" solid bar through the tubing. Put a cheater bar as long as you need on it. 6' usually works, although one time i resorted to a 10' bar. That time each lug nut broke free with a sound like a gun shot and you could see the rust and debris like smoke. I figured either the lug nut would loosen or the stud would break. Either way the wheel is off. Works great at pick-a-part where there are no air tools.