Homemade Lizardskin Update
#17
04-16-2015, 01:29 PM
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Location: peyton, colorado
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Ross, if you're thinking about doing it to your finished truck, you may want to mix it thick and brush it on. You could remove one interior panel at a time, brush it on and replace the panel. I don't know how Charlie sprayed his, but when I brushed mine I made multiple coats. Lizard Skin says the thickness of a credit card, or .040" is good. I used two or three coats to get that thickness.
#18
04-16-2015, 01:46 PM
#23
05-06-2015, 12:40 AM
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There still seems to be a lot of interest in this topic so I thought that I would provide an update on my work with this material. My 56 F100 is currently "riding the pine" while I finish my 40 Ford coupe. I have the 40 body on a rotisserie and have just finished applying bedliner to the underside of the floors. While I had the body flipped over I noticed how crappy the underside of the roof looked...old asphalt glue and felt stuck to some partially rusty metal. I took the whole roof area down to bare metal and coated it with Rust Seal. I then applied my homemade thermal barrier coating (aka, Lizardskin) to a small area to test the adhesion.
I was pleasantly surprised to see how durable the "new" recipe was and how well it adhered to the Rust Seal. The first picture below shows the test area after I had thoroughly scuffed it with a stainless steel wire brush...no flakes and no adhesion loss.
The second pic shows the base paint I used in this recipe...after reading the label I was convinced that this product would perform much better than the standard exterior latex that I had used in the past.
The third pic shows the inside of the roof after the application of the coating. After this dries it will shrink a bit and lose most of the gloss. Next step is to apply some Dynamat and then a layer of noise suppressing foam and the roof will then be ready to upholster.
I was pleasantly surprised to see how durable the "new" recipe was and how well it adhered to the Rust Seal. The first picture below shows the test area after I had thoroughly scuffed it with a stainless steel wire brush...no flakes and no adhesion loss.
The second pic shows the base paint I used in this recipe...after reading the label I was convinced that this product would perform much better than the standard exterior latex that I had used in the past.
The third pic shows the inside of the roof after the application of the coating. After this dries it will shrink a bit and lose most of the gloss. Next step is to apply some Dynamat and then a layer of noise suppressing foam and the roof will then be ready to upholster.
Im planning to do my panel truck with the micro ***** also but what you think about using a rubberized roof caoting instead of primer to help deadening the sound at the same step so to speak? I was thinking like sta cool from home depot or something simular. Or should I just attack it in two seperate steps. The micro ***** thermal barrier and then a separate sound deadner of my choice? Or since I am thinking about it why not put lead powder in with your primer and microball mixture? Would that even work? Just thinking out loud.
#24
05-06-2015, 09:07 AM
Be sure that you are using balloons/spheres and not solid ***** in your mix. There are products out there that are solid (cabosil for one) that are used for thickening and have no thermal barrier qualities. As for the paint component, viscosity and adhesion are the main concerns...if you think that the roofing product will accept the addition of the microspheres in a concentration sufficient to add thermal barrier properties then go for it. Personally I think that it would not be the best carrier that you could choose. I am not sure what lead powder would do other than make your truck toxic but maybe I am missing something.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
#25
05-06-2015, 03:26 PM
#26
05-06-2015, 04:53 PM
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Be sure that you are using balloons/spheres and not solid ***** in your mix. There are products out there that are solid (cabosil for one) that are used for thickening and have no thermal barrier qualities. As for the paint component, viscosity and adhesion are the main concerns...if you think that the roofing product will accept the addition of the microspheres in a concentration sufficient to add thermal barrier properties then go for it. Personally I think that it would not be the best carrier that you could choose. I am not sure what lead powder would do other than make your truck toxic but maybe I am missing something.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
No I thought I heard of lead as a sound deadner, maybe in other aplications. but never hear any one using it per say and yes I thought also might be toxic. I will just go what you have done since you have had a lot of expieriance under your belt. I apreciate what you have shared and I thank you. And yes I also purchased Micro Spears from Wicks. Thanks again.
#27
05-06-2015, 05:44 PM
No I thought I heard of lead as a sound deadner, maybe in other aplications. but never hear any one using it per say and yes I thought also might be toxic. I will just go what you have done since you have had a lot of expieriance under your belt. I apreciate what you have shared and I thank you. And yes I also purchased Micro Spears from Wicks. Thanks again.
My 54 Won't have any carpet or other interior trim panels so the Dynamat type products won't work for mine. That's why I'm going with the DIY bedliner ( Durabak ) in mine. You can add as many coats as want. And you can add the ceramic micro-spheres to it ( just thin it down as needed ) . So with the micro-spheres and the rubber granular bits in it I'm hoping it will cut down on the sound and heat some. They also offer it in the smooth version.
My plan is to coat the entire interior, except the dash and A-post, with a few coats of the standard stuff. And then do a couple coats of the smooth coating after that on the rear wall and inside the roof.
#28
05-06-2015, 06:03 PM
#29
05-06-2015, 06:05 PM
My 54 Won't have any carpet or other interior trim panels so the Dynamat type products won't work for mine. That's why I'm going with the DIY bedliner ( Durabak ) in mine. You can add as many coats as want. And you can add the ceramic micro-spheres to it ( just thin it down as needed ) . So with the micro-spheres and the rubber granular bits in it I'm hoping it will cut down on the sound and heat some. They also offer it in the smooth version.
My plan is to coat the entire interior, except the dash and A-post, with a few coats of the standard stuff. And then do a couple coats of the smooth coating after that on the rear wall and inside the roof.
My plan is to coat the entire interior, except the dash and A-post, with a few coats of the standard stuff. And then do a couple coats of the smooth coating after that on the rear wall and inside the roof.
#30
05-06-2015, 07:52 PM
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