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Have any of you guys dealt with this? The cab on this truck is a southern cab swap about 3 yrs ago, repainted white( somewhat poorly). It looks like the new paint chipped and surface rust it starting.
Haven't had this problem on any of my other obs fords.
How bad does this look to you guys? It's a shame because the rest of this cab is in great shape considering it's been plowing since it was swapped on the chassis.
That is a very common problem here in Florida. Roof rust out before the bottoms do.
You will need to dig out the seam sealer from the drip rail and fix any rust and redo the seam sealer. If left unchecked, you will get lots more rust issues lower down the pillers and floors.
On my 89 F250, I had to cut the inside roof out(over the doors about 10" long and 2" wide hole) to get behind the outer roof skin to fix rust along the inside of the roof door jam. I used POR 15 up inside the roof line after I got all the loose rust out. And resealed the rain drip rail seam on the out side.
That is a very common problem here in Florida. Roof rust out before the bottoms do.
You will need to dig out the seam sealer from the drip rail and fix any rust and redo the seam sealer. If left unchecked, you will get lots more rust issues lower down the pillers and floors.
On my 89 F250, I had to cut the inside roof out(over the doors about 10" long and 2" wide hole) to get behind the outer roof skin to fix rust along the inside of the roof door jam. I used POR 15 up inside the roof line after I got all the loose rust out. And resealed the rain drip rail seam on the out side.
Would you consider it ok to leave the corrosion unaddressed for 6 months to a year? I'm planning a 1000 mile move in a couple months and do not have the time or space right now to fix this, my biggest concern is rust leading to water leaks in the cab.
Would you consider it ok to leave the corrosion unaddressed for 6 months to a year? I'm planning a 1000 mile move in a couple months and do not have the time or space right now to fix this, my biggest concern is rust leading to water leaks in the cab.
Any tips on removing the windshield?
Sooner then better for the rust!!! When it starts, it can go fast and eat up lot of metal.
For a temp fix, I would wire wheel out the seams and get rid of the old seam sealer then use the rust converting liquid Ospho(sp?) or equ to convert the rust into a paint-able primer. Reseal the seam with seam sealer. Cover with some good paint, hopefully it will slow down the rust till you get time to properly fix it.
On my 89, it took a day for me to wire wheel both sides and goop on POR15 I had from another project. So far I have not seen anymore rust or bubbling POR15 from rust under it. When I get a garage, barn or some knida roof to work under as the rainy season is starting, I will sand blast every thing(I'll see how POR15 comes off) and redo it.
Sooner then better for the rust!!! When it starts, it can go fast and eat up lot of metal.
For a temp fix, I would wire wheel out the seams and get rid of the old seam sealer then use the rust converting liquid Ospho(sp?) or equ to convert the rust into a paint-able primer. Reseal the seam with seam sealer. Cover with some good paint, hopefully it will slow down the rust till you get time to properly fix it.
On my 89, it took a day for me to wire wheel both sides and goop on POR15 I had from another project. So far I have not seen anymore rust or bubbling POR15 from rust under it. When I get a garage, barn or some knida roof to work under as the rainy season is starting, I will sand blast every thing(I'll see how POR15 comes off) and redo it.
Thanks for your reply, sounds like this seam sealer is pretty tough to get off, I was hoping it would be like removing old caulking haha. Also I've never removed a windshield myself before, so other than the first step of removing the trim around the windshield what else do I need to do to get the glass out and clean up the rust around the windshield?
To get a windshield out with out cracking it, is not easy at all.
One method is to "see-saw" a piano wire back and forth to cut the urethane sealant. Takes two people and coordination and LOTS of luck now to crack the glass!
Another way is to call a glass guy out and have them remove it. If the guy is good, he can get the windshield out with special tools, if not then hopefully you can use your auto insurance to replace a "busted" windshield....
Most times the rust is along the parting seams and do not rust behind the glass. That one photo of the pass side piller rust hole, could be under the glass. I would take the trim off and see and try to work around not removing windshield.
Ok so I cleaned up the rust and repainted around the windshield, the problem is the stupid POS windshield trim pieces have rubbed into the paint.. Now I know why there was rust there to begin with. Did I not let the paint and clear have enough time to fully cure or what?
04-10-2015, 10:12 PM
