Bilsteins installed in the front...the tech folder says it can be done with the wheels on...not for this guy. Way easier with them off. Snapped a pic of the cruddy old one.



Boots up..Thats why I am a boot down guy~lol

 

Small update: Installed a beefier 1" rear sway bar, energy suspension bushings, and some G8 hardware. Painted black and a big shout out to InmatesRunThePlace for the freebie. My previous freebie was a little narrow even though it came from a 2008 F250 and it was only 7/8" too.

 

And this should get installed tomorrow or Tuesday...

 

RAS installed...instructions suck. They are the old instructions but I got the new version. That 12MM bolt used to adjust the springs stinks to. Can't get a ratchet between the bolt and the top plate on the leaf springs so I had to use a wrench. Probably a ratchet wrench would have worked wonders, but I did not have 12MM.. I used the black spacer on the springs. Big increase on drivability. Modified B's should be on next month.

 

B-mod springs installed w/RAS set with a dime for spacing...and finally washed up too!

 

Whew, time for an update..in case anyone was wondering here is the difference between banjo bolts factory vs. Riffraff. In the process of replacing up-pipes, banjo bolts, and naked intake pipes...stripping the foil off, I hate that stuff!

 

Looks great, Art. Tried to rep you.

 

I like your floor jack, mine works well too.

 

Thanks, still a work in progress! Today I mounted the turbo with new o-rings, torqued it down and put the wire wheel to the intercooler pipe. Also replaced the passenger side big oil rail end plug. Couldn't tell if it was leaking, but it sure was dirty from soot! I am also going with MBRP exhaust so the downpipe is not in my way right now..will snap some pics as soon as I get a chance. I am in a rush to get her done.

 

So quick question, when I pulled the oil rail end plug a bunch of oil leaked out. Now I have to crank the hell out of it to get it started. Do i need to check the HPOP reservoir? Could it be low causing the problem? Is it separate from the rest of the oil? I thought it would re-pressurize when I start it up and only be long cranking on the first start up. It does run like a beast now with the exhaust leaks fixed. I can hit 19LBs of boost in the neighborhood easily.

 

So I guess it filled up on its own. Starts up just fine now. Got the overhead console fixed finally! Ordered a new CPS from Riffraff, and some boot clamps. With my Edge tuner I can easily hit 23lbs of boost and start to de-fuel. Put my chip back in and not super happy. It pulls like a locomotive but it seems to max out at 20lbs and thats it. Sending it to Gearhead tomorrow for a reborn! I will snap some pics tomorrow!

Also ordered some u-bolts from ATS for the front leaf spring swap that I have planned in a couple of weeks.

 

Looking good, Art! Yes, the oil rail takes a good bit to fill back up. Especially if you had drained both. There is about a quart of oil in each.

What chip do you have that you had to send it back?

I went with the boost fooler from RiffRaff, and I am happy with the results AND the appearance of it. Stopped any de-fueling at higher boost levels. Be careful boosting that stock turbo. The journal bearings won't handle boosts in excess of 23 psi very often or for very long.

 

All the more reason to upgrade!! I only did the one side since I had the stock exhaust off for replacement. I figured with the bigger down pipe, I might as well replace it now while I had lots of room back there!

 

Decided to go to the range today... Got my chip pulled off a little late. It was to nice a day, plus I also picked up our turkey..freshly slaughtered this morning!

 

Replaced the CPS. Had the international grey in there. Got a new one from riffraff. Throwing the old one in the glove box. Seems to run a tad smoother, but that could just be me. Also crawled under there and checked the exhaust, and up-pipes. All still nice and tight.