It's a long shot but has anyone used corrosionX HD?
It appears to be a little better than fluid film, but a little more money too.. They use it in the aircraft industry so I think it probably is good.
I'm probably going to buy it and check it out. Worst case I'm out some cash.

 

Got a link to it?
Dave ----

 

CorrosionX products are used in Marine applications, MIlitary, Aviation, Industrial, Agricultural etc and are likely the best anti-corrosion coatings in the industry, they really are the gold standard that all others are compared too

Corrosion Technologies makers of world famous CorrosionX and RejeX

 

I have been using nhoilundercoating.com. It works pretty well.

 

For anyone who has undercoated their truck, did you drill holes in the rocker and use the plastic plugs/caps?
I was looking at it today and I noticed 1 plug up by the door hinge but I don't think that will be enough to spray to the back of the rocker.
I'm not sure if it will work either, I didn't try to remove it yet.
I don't want to drill if I don't need to.
I forget now but I thought I saw something that I can get a wand into on the latch side, so maybe between those two it will be enough to get good coverage front to back in the rocker?

 

Get under the truck and look at the rockers as most of it on mine are open.
IIRC only the front & rear where the rocker is welded to the door posts is it enclosed.

Eastwood makes an internal frame coating that uses a plastic straw with an end that sprays 360*.
You would need something like that straw / end to spray any of the enclosed areas.
Now our trucks have a 2 layer roof and like to rust out at the drip rails and down the "A" posts then follow the post down to the rockers, this all would need to be coated.
I believe the cab corners can be gotten from inside the cab and the "B" pillar think from the seat belt opening.

The front fenders you should be able to get to from openings on the inside.
I am not sure on a style side bed above the wheel openings if you can get to that area by removing the splash guards and fish the straw up in side or not.
I did not look this area over when I was pulling the style side bed apart to use the floor for my flare side.

Other than the cowl area that you can get to that should cover the areas I think rust could be thing is how do you clean that areas before you spray?
Dave ----

 

OK I have a flat bed so the back section shouldn't be much of an issue. Looks easy enough to get to everything at least.
I'm getting the wand, (fluid films brand) do you think it's possible to get up the pillars from the that bottom section where the door posts/rockers meet?
That's the one spot I was speaking of where there is a rubber type plug on mine already. (don't know if this is factory or not, might have been undercoated already once in its life)
Not sure how else I can reach the upper roof area, I do have "chicken lights" so I might be able to remove them and spray in that way hoping it will creep back far enough and down.
I've never removed them but I imagine it would allow access to that cavity.
I was considering removing the drivers kick panel and spraying around in there as well.
Can't do the passenger side due to blower being in the way. Unless I can squeeze the wand into the louver of the kick panel.
I cleaned out my drivers side when I ran new speaker wire, I need to find a way to gain access to the passenger side and clean the gunk out of it.

 

You have 3 options for getting into the rocker Drill holes in the top face (most common) Drill in the bottom (not recommended) But this will allow you to rinse the rocker cavity out. Or drill on the backside (my preference) as it is not visible and relatively protected from road debris and will allwo you to access the whole rocker from A pillar to the B/C pillar and able to protect the cab corner.

I tend to use a uni bit and drill a 1/2" hole and use a 1/2" rubber body plugs. Before you spray in the anti-rust, paint the holes you drilled with a galvanizing/zinc-rich paint if it is on the backside this is not visible unless you are under the truck. You pop as many holes as you need within reason on the backside of the rocker to get access to all of it to rustproof it. The A and B pillar will be able to be accessed with the appropriate interior trim panels removed. The C pillar (if a super/crew cab) may need holes popped in it from the interior again you will have to pull interior trim panels.

For body cavity rustproofing you ideally want to use body wax this is material that will creep and stay put.

The old standard from 3M
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collisio...vity-wax-plus/

And my personal favs from Wurth

https://shop.wurth.ca/vehicle-repair...SPRAY/893.081/
https://shop.wurth.ca/vehicle-repair....9-L/892.0801/

 

You can get to the roof by removing the sun shades and the dome light that is how I put spray foam in the roof and used rubber hose on the straw to get it where I wanted it.
I did it because when sanding it kept oil canning and hope to insulate from the sun beating down on the truck in the summer.

I don't know if I would pull the roof lights if they are sealed really good as you may not get them to seal again or able to get new seals.

You should be able to pull the right side kick panel and if you have AC the 4 screws that hold the metal cover in place and get to any dirt & junk at the bottom.
NON-AC trucks do not have this metal cover and you can just pull off the kick panel with the sliding door to access the area to clean it out.
HVAC box or blower should not be in the way as I had 1 of each truck and was able to get access to this area.
Dave ----

 

Another area worth spraying is the duckbill drains and cowl. The duckbill drains on my 97 are getting rusty inside .

 

Spray Foam, BAD move. I did my 84 F250 in the roof via visor holes and well........................, where that spray foam went rust came faster than ever.....
.

That was where the visor mounted to roof. One day hit a bump and it fell off

Spray foam holds moisture and I found out the hard way.... had to replace the cab due to it.

 

I've used POR-15 with some pretty amazing results. Now I will say that prep and rust removal is key to getting the stuff to last, but it will pretty much last a lifetime. I've not done my undercarriage as I'm just not doing a full restoration at this point, I just cant afford something like that. But my experience and every review i've read leads me to the same conclusion.

 

I'll be using the product I posted about earlier in the thread.
Good info and appreciate the tips on where and how to spray. I'll avoid taking the lights off and proceed with the dome/visors (I'm guessing that is what you meant by sun shade Dave?)

My truck does have AC guts in it and that must be what I see, I thought it was part of the blower motor assembly. I'll see about getting those screws out to remove that kick panel.
Definitely no other way to remove the most forward screw holding the kick panel in.
I'm not sure I follow the backside of the rocker comment but I'll look at it and I'm sure it will make sense, it's been a long day and I just can't visualize it right now.
I planned on buying a unibit, but thought I'd ask here about the drilling before buying in case I really didn't need it.
My main concern is to delay/prevent anything else rusting, just keep it rolling down the road. Keep it looking good from 20 feet.

 

Well to late now as it was done maybe a year ago now.

Yes sun visors, I could not think of the name then LOL

I also have AC and will have to check that screw but when I took the 2 trucks apart years ago I did not think it was an issue.
I do have the metal covers used if you have AC in place but not the plastic panels as I need to make them look pretty before I install them.
Now even with AC I plan on using the non-AC vent type kick panels and remove than metal plate because I most likely will not have AC working when I first get it on the road.

On the rockers when you get under and look you will see what I am talking of.
Dave ----

 

Dave I think as long as your pillar and roof gutter seams are sealed good your foam won't be a problem.