1987 F250 4x4 Build Thread
#16
It's not hard to see why my starter was grumbling....Fortunately I didn't see any damage to the flywheel. I didn't look at every tooth, but between the starter mount area and the inspection port on the transmission, all the teeth looked good, save for a slight bit of rounding on the edge of some of the teeth where the starter drive gear hits.
Now that I have a new starter installed, the heat soak issue has returned! I have been working 2nd shift this week, so progress has been limited, but this weekend I plan on adding a return line and fuel pressure regulator with higher pressures, hoping to get this problem sorted sooner than later.
#17
#18
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Did you get all the pieces to that starter out of the bell housing?
Just saying because having all those little pieces in their could trash a lot of parts.
Hope you get the truck fixed as it looks like it has potential.
I bet that big block is extremely loud with straight pipes! I had a 93 F250 with true dual thrush glass packs no cats that exited before the tire and it was plenty loud for me.
Trav
Just saying because having all those little pieces in their could trash a lot of parts.
Hope you get the truck fixed as it looks like it has potential.
I bet that big block is extremely loud with straight pipes! I had a 93 F250 with true dual thrush glass packs no cats that exited before the tire and it was plenty loud for me.
Trav
#19
Does the truck have an electric fuel pump? That stopped vapor lock on our 400, sorry I didn't post while you were messing with it. I've never messed with a tappet valvetrain but I would say get a good manual and go for it. A manual really is the new mechanics saving grace. There are a lot of cams out there for 460s, look for a torque or mid range cam and research some builds on here. While in I would get some stiffer valve springs, 1.7 ratio rockers (check if that works with clearance), and maybe your lifters.
#20
Did you get all the pieces to that starter out of the bell housing?
Just saying because having all those little pieces in their could trash a lot of parts.
Hope you get the truck fixed as it looks like it has potential.
I bet that big block is extremely loud with straight pipes! I had a 93 F250 with true dual thrush glass packs no cats that exited before the tire and it was plenty loud for me.
Trav
Just saying because having all those little pieces in their could trash a lot of parts.
Hope you get the truck fixed as it looks like it has potential.
I bet that big block is extremely loud with straight pipes! I had a 93 F250 with true dual thrush glass packs no cats that exited before the tire and it was plenty loud for me.
Trav
#21
After a lot of frustration with what I thought was the fuel system, I went back to the drawing board and checked for spark. Well, there was no spark after heat soak! Traced it back to the PIP sensor in the distributor. No surprise, considering the condition of the old distributor. WHen I got it, the wires were loosely duct taped - my electrical retape was all for nothin'! Regardless, I tested my truck under heat soak conditions multiple times today and it fires up every time on the first crank. It even starts easier cold, so I'm glad I did the swap.
#24
Well you see a 9th GP is an extra Glo-Plug and to use as a stogie lighter it's essentially the same thing as an oem cigarette lighter your truck comes with, it heats up red hot and lights the stogie
#28
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Trav
#29
Well, I replaced the distributor and now I have bucking/hesitation under load. The truck starts great, revs nicely, sounds real smooth in the driveway, but when I drive it, I get sputtering, backfiring, hesitation, etc. The new cap seems to have a bit of play in it and I'm wondering if it is rattling around when I drive, but that doesn't seem real likely. I still have plans to re-plumb the fuel system, as my symptoms would also make sense for fuel starvation, but it would be a big coincidence considering the problem only appeared when the distributor was swapped. The timing is set properly and the firing order is correct.
#30
With a new fuel regulator, I'm still not able to get above 4 psi. I am going to check pressure at the pump tonight and see if that's all I'm getting. Can anybody tell me what the pressure should be? The truck was originally EFI, so I would think it would be a lot higher, but I have no idea if the pump was swapped out when the engine was. If a low pressure pump was put in, what pressure do those typically put out? I am thinking about just going aftermarket/universal and putting a single pump & regulator on the frame. What would I need to do to the in-tank pump to allow gas to flow freely through it, assuming I disconnect the wiring. I really just want to use it as a fuel pick-up.