CCT Codes Please Help!!!!!
#1
CCT Codes Please Help!!!!!
I really need to get my truck fixed before deployment and could use some advice. A couple weeks ago I had a new IDM installed because the old one was full of water and the truck wouldnt start. I put in a new IDM and checked my UVCH through the 42 pin connector and IDM harness and they were all 5.0-8.5 Ohms except #7 was open. I pulled the VC's and put in new UVCH's today and while i was at it, i took Ohm readings of all of the injectors. Most ohmed at 2.9-3.0 Ohms except # 8 which was 1.4 Ohms. When i put it all back together the engine still missed a little and the SES light was still on. The DTC i got was P1316 IDM Codes stored. When i ran the CCT at operating temp i got P0269 and P0284 Cyl #3 and Cyl#8 contribution/ Balance fault. Does anyone have any suggestions on what i should look at next. Should i try moving the solenoid from #8 to #2 and see if the code changes? What about #3 i had 3.0 ohms on that injector. Thanks in advance.
#2
I really need to get my truck fixed before deployment and could use some advice. A couple weeks ago I had a new IDM installed because the old one was full of water and the truck wouldnt start. I put in a new IDM and checked my UVCH through the 42 pin connector and IDM harness and they were all 5.0-8.5 Ohms except #7 was open. I pulled the VC's and put in new UVCH's today and while i was at it, i took Ohm readings of all of the injectors. Most ohmed at 2.9-3.0 Ohms except # 8 which was 1.4 Ohms. When i put it all back together the engine still missed a little and the SES light was still on. The DTC i got was P1316 IDM Codes stored. When i ran the CCT at operating temp i got P0269 and P0284 Cyl #3 and Cyl#8 contribution/ Balance fault. Does anyone have any suggestions on what i should look at next. Should i try moving the solenoid from #8 to #2 and see if the code changes? What about #3 i had 3.0 ohms on that injector. Thanks in advance.
Based on those results, repost your findings.
#4
Do you know what color cps you have? They have been known to cause that fault on 8 and sometimes 3. My truck did not like the first grey cps and had a slight miss at idle when warm. I went back to black and it went away and does fine with the latest gray one as well. However, itn ever caused a CEL so I doubt that is it.
Compression test requires you remove the glow plug and get a fitting that will screw in that hole for a manual compression gauge to attach.
BTW, did you install a dorman set of valve cover gaskets or oem?
Compression test requires you remove the glow plug and get a fitting that will screw in that hole for a manual compression gauge to attach.
BTW, did you install a dorman set of valve cover gaskets or oem?
#5
#6
#7
#8 and #3 frequently fail a CCT with the grey CPS - and #8 is always the worst because of the electromechanical dynamic between the CPS and the timing gear. This one flaw has flung many people down the rabbit hole.
Your original thought of swapping the solenoid pack from #8 to #2 is on target. I don't like that low ohm reading on #8, it implies an internal short across some of the coils, and it will weaken the magnetic field when activated. #2 is not prone to the false alarms, so if it pops on the PERDELs or a CCT code, you have your answer. Swapping a pack with a new one is much cheaper/easier than swapping an injector.
I record my Cylinder Contribution of each cylinder with AE and look at the PERDELs on playback - plenty to learn there.
Your original thought of swapping the solenoid pack from #8 to #2 is on target. I don't like that low ohm reading on #8, it implies an internal short across some of the coils, and it will weaken the magnetic field when activated. #2 is not prone to the false alarms, so if it pops on the PERDELs or a CCT code, you have your answer. Swapping a pack with a new one is much cheaper/easier than swapping an injector.
I record my Cylinder Contribution of each cylinder with AE and look at the PERDELs on playback - plenty to learn there.
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#8
I may try that later. I swapped my cps to the old gray one that was in there before the problems and it seems to idle a little better. I still get the SES light and i got P1268, P1271, and P1277 when i first did a buzz test this morning with the engine cold. They all sounded the same except #8 was weak? I am warming it up right now to do a CCT. I will post the results as soon as i get them.
#9
After switching CPS and warming up and running the CCT i get the following codes P0266 P0269 P0284? i then ran a buzz test and get P1268 P1271 P1277? They all seem to buzz the same except #8 is quieter? I am going to switch CPS to another gray one and redue the scan. I will also get ohm readings from the 42 pin connector. It does seem to run better just keeps pulling codes. How do i do the rotational velocity test with AE? It always shows all cylinders as 0.00?
#10
#11
A weak buzz on #8 is consistent with low ohms in the coils - it may be verification of a weaker magnetic field. I won't say replacing the pack will be the silver bullet until you've move the pack to another injector (like #2), and conducted your tests again to double-dog verify.
#12
CRAP!!!!! I tried to switch the solenoids for 2 and 8 and there are 2 of the bolts that have been stripped in the head of the bolt so i guess its a no go. I am running out of time and money. I may have to just buy a couple rebuilt (Casserly Full Force Diesel) stage 1 single shot injectors again. I replaced #2 not too long ago and now i may need to replace #8 at minimum? I will have to save up for a while since i just spent over $900 trying to fix it so far. I am getting only SES and code for #8 contribution balance fault. Would it hurt to drive it with that until i can save some money and after deployment?
#13
Final Post
Final Post. I ran all of the tests one more time and this is what i got. KOER CCT P0266 and P0284. Cylinders 2 and 8 Contribution/Balance Fault. When i did buzz test i only got P1268 #8 Inj fault. It runs with SES light and stumbles a little. I plan on trying to get #2 and #8 Injectors replaced. When i use my IR thermometer on the drivers side exhaust manifold it is definetely cooler on the drivers side, especially by #2 and #8? Am i one the right path since everything else has been replaced? Can i drive it without damaging it until i save up some money? Thanks again for all of your help.
#14
I'm driving Stinky with a hurt injector and I'm still here to type about it. I've done far worse things to Stinky - like leave two injectors loose in the heads for over 1000 miles. After I fixed the faux pas, Stinky just looked at me with that jutted-out lower lip of his - and says "That all you got? You hit like a girl."
A bad solenoid pack is annoying to you, not damaging to the engine.
A bad solenoid pack is annoying to you, not damaging to the engine.
#15