i have an 89 f150 5.0. engine is not original to the truck was in there when i got it recently. the truck ran fine with a small exhaust manifold leak. i replaced the o2 sensor when i crawled under to check it and it broke off. a few days later i ran the truck to the store and back ran as good as usual. i went to use it a few hours later and it had a miss and sputters pulling out the drive and gets worse the faster i go. i replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, did a fuel pressure test and it was at 40lbs. but replaced the fuel filter and regulator anyway. also replaced the icm on the distributor on advice from advance. no codes except the egr but that was after i pulled the egr sensor and played with it. i used a piece of beer can to block the egr to intake and did not make a difference either. the cat is removed this is a farm vehicle and does not require any emissions. any help would be appreciated. im a blonde not a dumb one and done everything i can to figure this out. maybe the low pressure fuel pump? on a second topic can i remove all the egr and smog and the truck still run as it should? thanks all

 

bump bump bump

 

Pull the codes, you should get something even if it is an OK code, this is to make sure the PCM is working. For the fuel pressure...put your gauge on the rail and start the motor, check the pressure. Turn off motor, pull the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and start the motor. Did the pressure go up?

 

started truck up fuel pressure at 30 psi released pressure and checked again, still 30 psi. turned off truck removed vacuum line and restarted, fuel pressure went to 40 psi. thanks

 

I think I would take the ECM computer out and open it up and see if any of the capacitors are leaking or bulging.

 

i got a new code reader today and after it not wanting to connect to the ecm i checked a couple of the relays and found some green corrosion, cleaned them up and now it reads codes, got a 14 which says the pip received a loss voltage. what is the pip in parts store lingo.

 

Pip is the part on the distributor that tells the pcm when it detects cylinder #1. If those relays are now working, clear the code, remove battery cable for 30 min and drive it

 

If you get a PIP code then you need to replace the stator in the distributor. The PIP sensor is mounted on the stator.
Do not remove the battery cable as it can cause more problems and set another code.
Only remove the battery cable if you replace a sensor and then clear the power code with the STI wire when the CEL starts to flash.

 

ive tried the disconnect battery trick over the last 2 weeks and it hasnt worked yet. i only get the pip code in memory during the koeo test and a code 21, 41 , and 52, while its running. atleast i dont get the 77 code anymore

 

The hall effect PIP sensor is a digital output device located within the distributor. A rotary vane cup, used to trigger the hall sensor, is mounted on the shaft of the distributor and is made of a ferrous metal. When the window of a cup is in the air gap between the hall device and the permanent magnet, a magnetic flux field is completed from the magnet through the hall device and back to the magnet. This condition results in a low (0 volts) output signal. As the distributor shaft turns, a tooth on the cup will move into the air gap. The magnetic field will be shunted by the tooth, preventing it from reaching the Hall device, and the output signal will change from a low to a high (VBAT).

 

In the many many posts you have put up and the many more I have read...I have never heard of this. Can you explain the damage this would cause?

 

I did not say damage I said problems for both the running and the poor person that is trying to find out what is wrong.

If you have a bad sensor and the computer reverted back to a set valve to run the engine and you remove the battery cable then the computer may read a bad sensor and now use its value and the engine might not even start or may run worse. Also it will set a memory failure code and someone not up on it may change out the computer because that is what the code says to do. Not to mention that all the Ford shop manuals say not to do it. If you are going to change out the battery out you can put a new 9volt battery in the lighter plug to maintain the codes and memory while the battery is being changed.

You also have to drive the truck about 10 miles to get the computer to read all of the sensors again and act right.

I have also posted this many times.

 

okay got a pip and put it in, should be called a pia. reinstalled distributor and i think its 1 tooth off. it runs but i cant get timing to set right, it got dark so ill finish it tomorrow and keep people posted. miss seemed like it was still there.?

 

pulled distributor and reset, it was 1 tooth off. still has a miss and now the code reader wont do a koeo test? koer says 41 and 52 again

 

replaced ecm relay and code reader works now, reset codes and did koeo test no codes, did koer and 41 (o2 sensor?) and 52 code power steering, shut it off and did koeo again still getting 11. miss still there , i will check vacuum lines again