Maybe an earlier 2000-2005 Mazda, but those lights sure make it look like a dakota. Sorry that happened to you, hope you catch these low lives.

 

THanks so very much

 

Going back to the starter relay wiring. If it is wired how I am picturing, you could pull the keyed-power to the relay and switch it off with a hidden switch the truck wouldn't do anything but light up the dash.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the starter circuit?

 

This would be a good use of an upfitter switch coupled with a latching relay (&push-button momentary switch).

That way, one would need to ensure one of the upfitter switches was "ON" .......then you would simply press a hidden momentary push-button switch to close the relay.

After every shutdown, the relay would release........ requiring a button "press" to close it again. (assuming the up-fitter switch or other hidden toggle-switch was on)

The additional switch would add security.

It would be unlikely someone would figure out that the upfitter switch must be up to get the relay to latch (but they would have to find the [hidden] momentary push-button to know it needs to be pressed) ................. if you didn't want an additional switch, you could use the latching relay by itself with a hidden button......

This would not however, prevent someone from running a jumper "start" wire directly to the starter solenoid........ I don't think a LOT of knuckleheads go to that trouble though. They want to get in, start it quick and GO.

//

 

I for one would not bet on that. These guys know what they are looking for and most likely how to start one.

No start,Pop the hood,Jump out.Pull the wire and tap to battery post. Go. Tuck gone along with an extra 10 sec.


Sean

 

I'll have to ask one of my Cop friends.......I don't think thieves do much trouble shooting. Having to open the hood and screw around just gives them more time to get noticed (and caught)..................

You could do the same thing with the FICM "kill" switch. Just use a simple latching relay so that you only have to press the momentary switch to turn on the FICM power.

\\

 

If a professional thief wants your vehicle he/she will get it. Kill switches only work to stop the amateurs. The more deterrents you put on though, the harder (longer) it is to steal and maybe the pro will look for a similar truck to steal instead of hassle with yours.

Jim

 

I could make a 6.0L truck impossible to start. If the "Pro" wanted it, he wouldn't be able to drive it away. he'd have to tow it.

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Mine will spin until the batteries run down, without ficm power it won't start. Dirtbag better have a rollback.

 

Yeah. that's one way, I suspect you could fool with the IPR valve too. I don't know if it's powered closed or powered open. (with pulse-width modulated voltage)

All you would need to do is open the IPR valve so that it doesn't allow the ICP to build and the engine will not start.

If the bad guy cannot find the (IPR valve) switch, he'll need a rollback.

There's probably a few other things you could do,

Maybe even get with some of the "Tuners" and ask them to incorporate a password into their tunes. Have them place an IPR valve-"OPEN" setting until the magic word is "spoken"

Then all the guy can do is run the batteries down!

The secret FICM power switch sounds good to me. I would still use a latching relay so it's just a secret button "push".......just hide the switch so no one....even a "Pro", is ever gonna find it.......

\\

 

IPR is power to close. So in the unpowered state you get a
but fat 0 for pressure.


Sean

 

I think a "PRO" would NOT be successful finding a "break" in the IPR circuit......

Would definitely need a Rollback then!

AND let me add that the "power" to close (the valve) is a pulse-width modulated voltage/current that when increased (that is, pulse-width increased), the closing force is greater, resulting in LESS bypass and increased pressure.

So NO current through the solenoid results in only SPRING force to close which is insufficient to produce minimum starting pressure??? (around 500psi)

I think a SCIENCE EXPERIMENT is in order!!.......

//

 

Until he did a quick online search and found this thread

 

yeah, but it wouldn't give him the location of the switch!!

 

I would install an inline fuse in the ign. switch to the starter wire. Then install a wire from the load side of the fuse to a toggle switch then to ground.
Once the toggle switch is in the on possition, any time the starter is activated the fuse will blow and the starter selenoid circuit will be deactivated.
Of course it's a matter of location; fuse location, switch location to make it secret and accessible.