I installed the 2.5" RSK back in January, and I could immediately tell the difference in the ride quality. Now, some 3 months later, I'm not happy and getting ready to tear into it and figure out what's wrong.

I installed with Bilstein 5150's, bought everything I needed from PMF except the springs, which are V-Code from a salvage yard. It seems like I have LOTS of clanking/clunking going on and some real harsh side to side action.

Let me just say that I don't think there's anything wrong with the parts bought from PMF.

Could it be that the sway bars are too close to the spring? My sway bars are about 1/4" below the spring. I can see how this would cause the bad side movement if they're hitting. Is it possible that this could be causing the clunking sounds underneath (when they hit)? Perhaps buying the rods meant for the rear will fix this since they are longer? I've tightened everything as much as I can, and the sway bars are the only thing I could imagine.

Thoughts please?

 

Under what conditions do you hear the clunking sounds?

 

Did to replace the spring bushings when you did it? If your sway bar links are hitting the springs that much I would think you would be able to tell by a shiny spot where they are hitting

 

I extended my sway bar end links.they are fairly close to parallel with my springs.also check the track bar bushings.I had to replace mine at one point also.

 

I hear the noise when going over bumps, potholes, etc. Truck rides smooth as silk when driving down a smooth road.

The spring bushings are in great shape, almost looked new. I know the sway bar is hitting, but I don't know for sure if that's what's causing the problems.

I installed a new PMF adjustable track bar, so we're all good there.

 

Make sure your fender bolts are tight. The material in there will make one heck of a loud clunk when going over uneven surfaces ...

 

Yep, they are tight...one of the first things I checked

 

If you used STOCK F350 front sway bar links, YES they are too short.

Stock REAR sway bar links are the perfect length for the front with the RSK

 

Sounds like I need to order rear sway bar links, regardless of whether or not that's my problem. Honestly, of all the RSK research I did prior to buying and installing the kit, I never once came across this information. I love learning new things

 

Depends on how much your axle moves up and down, and how arched (mine are flat) your springs are, you may need the sway bar farther/lower than parallel.

But, with the sway bar so close to the spring, I suspect one of the noises you are hearing is the sway bar being hit by the track bar bolt and bracket.

And I hear ya on the 'learning new things'. I'm still tweaking things that I didn't discover during my research. All part of the fun.

 

And that is why I use a stock track bar bracket with no drop and an adjustable track bar...aka no clearance issues.

But I have also done a dozen or so Of the so I have it down to a science

 

Not to derail the OP's thread.... Brad, I needed the drop the PMF bracket gave to get rid of bump steer. If you are not dropping your track bar, are you also running a stock pitman arm?

 

I just did that swap recently too. I used the stock rear sway bar end links up front at first, but even they would allow my springs to hit the sway bar. I have a bit of a ditch on my driveway to keep the water from washing out my road, and it would clunk and hit the sway bar there every time. I got a set from Skyjacker about 2 inches longer than the factory rears. If I put the truck on the lift, the springs still rest on the sway bar at full extension, but so far they never touch during normal driving.

I've been under my truck several times re torquing everything. After 3 or 4 times going around re torquing and about a thousand miles on it, everything is staying in place now. The new u bolts and spring bolts loosened up a fair amount as everything settled, not enough to clunk, but it would have over time.

 

I used the PMF 3" drop bracket, 3" drop pitman arm, and the PMF adjustable track bar. I had to trim about 1/4 inch off the u-bolt for the sway bar mount on the lower passenger side, and hold it up while tightening it down. You're right, it's CLOSE, but it does clear from full extension to full compression. I should have just used the stock stuff, but already had the drop pitman arm from my old kit, so I just went with it that way.

 

I was actually wondering the same thing...