Try bumping your timing up a bit like everybody is saying. Your locked WG is pushing a lot of exhaust through a tiny wheel, so I am sure your drive pressure is up there and not helping your EGT's.. If you are running 800-850 on flat ground, something is not right, and its not the pump delivering too much fuel, its definitely a timing issue, or flow. Im wondering if that cam was installed right, or ground right for that matter, I would assume they would put a fresh cam in that engine. If the airflow isn't there, you will be demanding more fuel with your foot, and things will get hot. My F250 never saw more than 650* at 60-65mph in all the setups I had, on flat ground, and its got a 4" lift and 35's...


As far as the W/M goes, look on Ebay, you can get a universal stage 2 snow kit for like $350. With 2 10gph nozzles, my EGT's were reduced by 200* even intercooled, with my DB4 back when I was towing a lot, and that was just with water.

 

I may be wrong, but water meth is just to keep it livable on hills and such, if you were planning to use it while crusing, youre going to have to have like a 200 gallon tank to hold enough water. x2 10GPH nozzles = 20gallons per hour, in that same stretch you might use 5-6 gallons of fuel max (10mpg, avg. speed of 60mph which would be worst case scenario) So a tank of fuel would require 140 gallons of water.

 

ive got a 6.0 IC that I was going to try and shove in there but its way too big lol, ill use it in my 85 .. ill probably end up buying the kit from hypermaxx, as much as I really don't want to spend the money. ive got less than a month before I take my Alaska trip so its now or never lol

 

you can build your own far,far cheaper and it's surprisingly easy to do! don't be overwhelmed because you've never done it.i was hesitant as first as well but it's way,way quicker and easier than i figured.keep the extra grand for other things.i kid you not,fabbing up an IC kit is easier than replacing rear brake shoes.........only way more enjoyable! i don't have a welder either.it's easy to grab a ruler and draw a line across the pipe in a couple places so they know where to weld it.i marked with a 1 on each side,then a 2 to 2 etc.they welded up the pipes locally cheap and 10 mins.tossed them in the truck in about the same.it's an old idi truck.exhaust pipe is all ya need.if you want pretty,you can always wrap them.ebay for an fmic,silicone intakes for boots (or ebay) and t-bolt style clamps, mandrel bends for some free flowing pipe.pm type4 for a pressure chamber.you got this!

 

if you go with a water injection, you might put a boost pressure switch in the system so it will come on when boosting they are adjustable to limit spray time to just when you want it IE (full throttle and or when boosting over a set point) IC it and or get some cooler air in it some how..

 

I may be adding a Banks kit and a intercooler to my 7.3 in a few months. I know I want the Stage 1 injectors, but which pump is best?

Any estimates on how much horsepower I may receive? Will the system break 300?

 

im running a Bull Moose IP, calibrated at 105cc's @ 5 psi.

you will greatly benefit from an innercooler,
i paid i believe a grand total of just under 400 bucks for
all my tubing, boots, clamps, and a 1000 CFM inner cooler.
fabbing the intake hat could be a different story if you decide to go the welding route and you cant weld aluminum.

i also went with stainless tubing. all welded up inbetween the FMIC and turbo/intake

i average 300* on a flat road @ 60 mph, spinnging 1100 rpms with a ZF5 and 3.55's
i have my timing set at 9 *
timing also effects EGT's
i wouldnt do water injection until youve done a IC, and timing.
dont turn your pump down, upgrade it!!!

 

There is literally no such thing as "stage anything" injectors for an IDI. You get stock injectors no matter what unless you find someone who can modify them like a "Moose Mister". All the fuel in an IDI comes from the injection pump.

 

Ummm......Injectors

 

[QUOTE=IDIoit;15298340]im running a Bull Moose IP, calibrated at 105cc's @ 5 psi.

you will greatly benefit from an innercooler,
i paid i believe a grand total of just under 400 bucks for
all my tubing, boots, clamps, and a 1000 CFM inner cooler.
fabbing the intake hat could be a different story if you decide to go the welding route and you cant weld aluminum.

i also went with stainless tubing. all welded up inbetween the FMIC and turbo/intake

i average 300* on a flat road @ 60 mph, spinnging 1100 rpms with a ZF5 and 3.55's
i have my timing set at 9 *
timing also effects EGT's
i wouldnt do water injection until youve done a IC, and timing.
dont turn your pump down, upgrade it!!!

[QUOTE]

I could do a modified R&D intake manifold, but I need to take a look at the Banks kit first to be sure it's going to fit. I really need to do the pump and injectors first, then the turbo system. I wonder if 100ccs of pump will make it undriveable, but I could turn it down for a bit.

 

i run my IP on a daily basis. when im hard on the pedal, it smokes like a train.
if im easy on it, im "priuskid" compliant.

aftermarket rebuilt pumps are calibrated (or should be) to give you a desired fuel flow.
why spend the money on a high flow IP if youre just going to turn it down?

i have no usefull info on R&D's designs.
do what you wish.

FYI companys use catch phrases like "Stage 1" to attract the eye of a potential buyer.

i was taught that when talking about injectors, you talk about flow/pop rate only.
ask any old timer diesel guru about "stages"

 

your not going to get 300 hp from an idi without opening it up to modify it.
i have the n/a ip's with banks turbos and intercoolers.at 8 BTDC (or higher) i'll get a few light puffs of smoke between shifts as is.
there's no call or reason for anymore fuel (it wouldn't increase power,because it would simply go unburnt,look like an old junker,needlessly harm mother earth,hurt fuel economy and shorten the engines life with high egts.)
if i wanted to introduce anymore fuel,i would first need to introduce more air first with a larger turbo than the banks.
when engine building and tuning,things must match if you want an efficient setup.
if your looking for 300 ponies,then none of the turbo kits are anything at all that your after.you'll need to build the engine far past navistar's original plans lol and bolt on a custom turbo kit.
that said,it's not exactly a slug.it can get along just fine.can your idi run 0-60 in approx 10 secs when loaded 8500 gross? if so,then isn't this really enough? seriously? lol.

if ya wanna go fast (real fast) then nothing beats a classic car with a built up nasty 429 or 460.

 

You didn't read my posts correctly.

 

If I wanted to go fast I'm jump in my '68 Country Squire and smash the go pedal. It's only 400hp with 4.11s and a spool, but it moves just fine.

 

or a 12:1 410