I am currently running a ats ported housing and dp tuner and under WOT with the ats I get 20psi max and with stock housing I could get 25psi ma's for an instant before the WG opened so with the hose in hooked I can hold 25psi and I'm not sure what the safe psi max is for stock turbo ive heard 25,27 and 30 and I know under 40 for stock head studs so am I able to run with the hose disconnected safely or not and thoughts on a boost cooler since the engine defuels at 22psi?

 

With your DP, you shouldn't need a boost fooler. Have you seen an SES, or felt it defuel? I don't understand what you are saying about your max boost and the ATS housing. Can you clarify, with commas and periods and stuff?

Mark

 

I get it, I had the same thing. The wastegate dumps your boost at about 17 PSI, unless the red line mod has been done to the wastegate. Capping the red line can get you as high as 22 PSI with a stock tune on a healthy truck with other air mods, but the PCM will defuel at that point (I have that tee-shirt).

I know there is a "7-turn" mod (tighten the wastegate tension) that elevates boost, but I am unclear what the numbers are with that. I suspect the 7T mod was done to Stinky before I bought him, because capping the red line gave me more boost than I see others reporting with red-line alone.

My 38R wastegate is cranked pretty tight, but I have the red line connected and it flatlines the boost at about 34 PSI. The heads can take more than the valve springs can, so I limit the boost to go easy on the valve springs. Your 20 PSI boost falls way short of so much as calling the engine a dirty word.

Turbo: A stock turbo can reach 30 PSI, but it is far outside the envelope. The backpressure maxes right quick, and it takes a while with high EGTs to build that boost. All the while, the hot exhaust is pushing hard against the thrust bushing - shortening its life every time this occurs.

My 38R delivers very close to 1:1 backpressure/boost all the way up to 34 PSI.

 

I did the 7 turn mod a long time ago. It allowed me to hit 23 psi before the waste gate started opening. If you plug the red line, your waste gate will not open. I capped mine and tried it out with my new RR Billet wheel and hit 32psi pretty easy. I have heard we start getting out of compressor map at 27psi, so I try to keep it under that. I also have a boost fooler along with my DP tuner F5. I mainly tow, so the only time I get over 27 is when I'm empty and getting on it pretty good!

 

Sorry, I was typing in a hurry.
With the stock turbo compressor housing and tuner I could get 25psi right before the waste gate opened then it would level out to 20. No ses

With the ats ported housing the max is 20. No ses The waste gate seems to open quicker. (the install paper said the waste gate arm may need adjusting) I didn't mess with the arm because I didn't have any e clips to use to hold the arm on. I know I would loose the e clip as soon as I take it off.

With the red hose off and ats housing I can get 25-27. But ses light comes on. And egts are 300-400 higher than normal at normal driving speeds and throttle.

 

Fastenal has e-rings, or you might get one at the stealership.

The SES usually kicks in at 27 PSI with the DP Tuner - but it's on for about a minute, then it's gone. The "alarm" is the only thing that happens, nothing changes in the fueling. I used to call the SES light the lightning with the thunder... then I bought a boost fooler.

 

It looks like you're right about the wastegate no longer being adjusted correctly, and lots of guys on here run with the red line disconnected. The e-clip can be removed without losing it, but you have to be careful. I've heard of guys tying a string to it to keep it from flying off.

There are a couple of things I don't understand, though: Are your EGT's higher with the red line connected, disconnected, or both? Either way, I don't see why they would be higher, or lower, if the only change you made is the ATS housing. You might check for a small exhaust or boost leak.

Also, do you have Jody's "no codes" tunes? If so, I don't think you should be getting an SES light. You might see what he says about it.

BTW, if you are looking for another upgrade, try Clay's wheel designed for ported housings like the ATS. I don't have tons of experience with mine yet, but I'm quite pleased, so far.

Mark

 

Egt's are normal with the red hose connected for example they run 500-600 at 70mph at 2000rpm but while the hose disconnected they get to 900-1000 at 70mph at 2000 rpm
I don't believe I have his no code tune as the ses light comes on with the red hose disconnected
Switching from the stock housing to ATS both with red hose connected the egt's didn't change much they were about 50 degrees lower
The main point of the housing was to eliminate surge not pimarly power gains

 

I am not opposed to tying things on vehicles. The Red Boost Line is there for a reason. However, adjustments can be made to increase boost without disconnecting.

The only caution I give people is this. Before you do anything. Make sure the Engine is 100% running correctly in STOCK tune. Otherwise, a symptom can be masked that robs your wallet down the road.

 

No knocks,great oil and fuel pressure, makes 15 psi on stock tune, started first try around 5 degrees, never over heated, no leaks, very little blow by all sensors good and no check engine lights. Very sound engine with no problems so far (knock on wood).

 

That sounds odd. A few questions are doing the do-si-do in my head here: Was this a one-time test, or observations over a period of time? A hill or the wind can bump or drop the EGTs in a matter of seconds. Did you cap the red line, or just leave it dangling?

 

The red line was left uncapped
It was over a 45 minute drive with very little wind on relatively flat roads but this was all done with the chip on 80hp daily tune did not test with the stock setting I out the hose back on after the drive because I didn't like the egt's

 

I think that uncapped red line is your boost leak.

Mark

 

I'm not getting a boost leak I'm making 27 psi with the red hose uncapped

 

I think with the waste gate not opening to let off excess exhaust gasses like its supposed to when its unhook is what causes the egt's to rise.

i'm mainly concerned with if pushing 27 psi will hurt the turbo in any way and how can i gain as much as the turbo can safely handle with the hose and waste gate connected. Maybe an adjustable waste gate or modification to the current one?

all turbo boots and clamps have been checked every time the intercooler pipes have been removed latest check was 3 weeks ago so no leaks there.

with the housing and tuner and hose connected i get 20 psi and this is with the waste gate unadjusted (installation instructions said it might have to be Adjusted)

The ATS housing was to cure turbo surge not for power gains.

27 psi is reached with the ATS housing and hose unhooked.
I never tried unhooking hose with stock housing.

i could peg 25 psi (for 1-2 seconds) with stock housing before the waste gate could open then it would level out to 20psi and stay there.
i assume the unadjusted waste gate are is the reason for the absent spike in psi.

What waste gate should i use to correctly adjust for the new housing?

is 27 psi safe for stock turbo?

Adjusting the waste gate property should fix the higher egt's i get when the hose is unhooked.

What boost fooler should i use to get rid of the SES light that comes on when i reach 27psi since my tuner does not cancel out that light?