2011 F250 AC Issue
#1
04-03-2015, 12:07 PM
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2011 F250 AC Issue
New poster and member here. Hopefully you can help.
I have an issue with my AC. My AC blows warm and every once in awhile it will blow out cold air but for only a few seconds. I took it into a shop to evacuate and recharge ac to make sure I wasn't low on freon. The shop said I was not low on freon, so they started troubleshooting other issues. They were able to get into the computer and using their software manually turn on the compressor and the AC blew cold. The computer is not spitting out any codes after an AC Compressor relay was replace. They are saying that it looks like when the AC control module is turned on, it isn't forwarding that request to the computer and the computer isn't turning on the compressor.
Does this sound right or are they just trying to get in to the dash to bill me some labor.
I found a few post about the Air Gap on the compressor clutch. I am not able to check this due to the compressor not turning on with the control module is turned on.
Thanks for any and all help.
I have an issue with my AC. My AC blows warm and every once in awhile it will blow out cold air but for only a few seconds. I took it into a shop to evacuate and recharge ac to make sure I wasn't low on freon. The shop said I was not low on freon, so they started troubleshooting other issues. They were able to get into the computer and using their software manually turn on the compressor and the AC blew cold. The computer is not spitting out any codes after an AC Compressor relay was replace. They are saying that it looks like when the AC control module is turned on, it isn't forwarding that request to the computer and the computer isn't turning on the compressor.
Does this sound right or are they just trying to get in to the dash to bill me some labor.
I found a few post about the Air Gap on the compressor clutch. I am not able to check this due to the compressor not turning on with the control module is turned on.
Thanks for any and all help.
#2
04-03-2015, 12:09 PM
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#3
04-03-2015, 12:21 PM
Join Date: Apr 2015
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#4
04-03-2015, 03:15 PM
Hotshot
They are saying that it looks like when the AC control module is turned on, it isn't forwarding that request to the computer and the computer isn't turning on the compressor.
There are also several sensors that are involved and need to be checked. Evaporator temp sensor, Ambient air temp sensor, and the AC Pressure transducer. They all work together as inputs to either the HVAC module or the PCM. After that, it's up to the software in the PCM to turn on or release the clutch.
It's going to take a skilled technician with the right diagnostic equipment to look at the data in the PCM and see what's going on. About the only thing you'll be able to do is check the clutch gap. 0.014-0.026"
#5
04-24-2015, 07:33 PM
New poster as well but have visited the forum for a while now.
I have a 2011 F250 Lariat @ 60k miles, i have the "dual zone" as well as the auto mode i guess thats what is called. The issue im having is sometimes my AC works like it should and sometimes it just blows warm air. I can go jump into my truck and the AC just blows warm air right from the start sometimes after some time has gone by the AC will just start blowing cold air and working like it should. When it is blowing warm air i have tried swapping it to auto and adjusting the temp and nothing, i have tried switching it to max and still nothing i have even turned ac off with just vent and leaving it there for a minute and then turning AC back on and there is like a small burst of cool air then back to warm. It doesnt start out cold and then gradually go to warm air like if the system was low or something, its a sudden change in temperature. Sometimes i jump in and the AC works like it should, lately when it has been working like it should, i just leave it alone and adjust only fan speed with the fear that it might stop working and im stuck with a warm air.
Hopefully i will able to do this repair myself to save that $$.
Thanks
I have a 2011 F250 Lariat @ 60k miles, i have the "dual zone" as well as the auto mode i guess thats what is called. The issue im having is sometimes my AC works like it should and sometimes it just blows warm air. I can go jump into my truck and the AC just blows warm air right from the start sometimes after some time has gone by the AC will just start blowing cold air and working like it should. When it is blowing warm air i have tried swapping it to auto and adjusting the temp and nothing, i have tried switching it to max and still nothing i have even turned ac off with just vent and leaving it there for a minute and then turning AC back on and there is like a small burst of cool air then back to warm. It doesnt start out cold and then gradually go to warm air like if the system was low or something, its a sudden change in temperature. Sometimes i jump in and the AC works like it should, lately when it has been working like it should, i just leave it alone and adjust only fan speed with the fear that it might stop working and im stuck with a warm air.
Hopefully i will able to do this repair myself to save that $$.
Thanks
#6
04-25-2015, 07:07 AM
Hotshot
#7
04-25-2015, 12:23 PM
I did read the FAQs but it does say 97 - 03 which those years are considerably older than my 11 so it appeared its specific for those years...
Anyways i eyeballed the gap it does appear pretty slim without going any further i turned ignition to on position with AC on and the compressor didnt engage?
Anyways i eyeballed the gap it does appear pretty slim without going any further i turned ignition to on position with AC on and the compressor didnt engage?
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#8
04-25-2015, 07:35 PM
Hotshot
#9
05-01-2015, 04:43 PM
Well i got the feeler gauge to remove any doubt... yes its at the specified gap. When idling and looking at the compressor i turn on the ac and nothing engaging, i toggled back and fourth between off and on in each position for no less than 30 seconds. Still nothing. However sometimes i can jump in the truck and the ac just works. Its rare that it works now and its starting to heat up down here in southern NM.
I replaced the pressure switch that ties onto the accumulator and still nothing.
Any ideas?
I replaced the pressure switch that ties onto the accumulator and still nothing.
Any ideas?
#10
05-01-2015, 04:59 PM
Hotshot
#11
05-01-2015, 05:18 PM
Ok...
I thought the idea of forums was to post an issue and hopefully somebody has had the same issue or knows of the fix. We gone through the process of elimination with what is posted that is specifically for older year models on the FAQ thread. I realize there are a few different sensors or transducers and yes the computer is the way to figure it out by paying $$. But back to the maybe somebody has had this issue already and they say hey try replacing this sensor, instead of being directed to the stealership.
Thanks
I thought the idea of forums was to post an issue and hopefully somebody has had the same issue or knows of the fix. We gone through the process of elimination with what is posted that is specifically for older year models on the FAQ thread. I realize there are a few different sensors or transducers and yes the computer is the way to figure it out by paying $$. But back to the maybe somebody has had this issue already and they say hey try replacing this sensor, instead of being directed to the stealership.
Thanks
#12
05-02-2015, 01:39 PM
Hotshot
You don't have to go to the dealership, you can go to anyone you choose to, provided they have the requisite equipment and training, unless, of course, you want to invest in all that yourself.
Simply put, unless you just want to guess at which of the multiple parts that could all cause the same symptom, you HAVE to be able to query the computer about what's going on.
Forums are also about education, sometimes you learn that you cannot easily do what you want to do. Consider yourself educated now, even it if its something you didn't want to learn.
Simply put, unless you just want to guess at which of the multiple parts that could all cause the same symptom, you HAVE to be able to query the computer about what's going on.
Forums are also about education, sometimes you learn that you cannot easily do what you want to do. Consider yourself educated now, even it if its something you didn't want to learn.
#14
06-14-2018, 05:02 PM
Thread resurrection. I have a 2011 F250 with the same issue supposedly. Dealer has quoted me nearly $2000 for the repair because they say the complete dash must come out to replace the evap temp sensor. Can I ask what it cost for your repair, or if you did the repair yourself? I need the A/C repaired as this truck is daily driven, but 10 hours at dealer rates to replace a $50 temp sensor is ridiculous! I would kick the Ford engineer in the @$$ from one coast to another who designed this faulty sensor location. Sheeety Ford Engineer!!!
#15
06-27-2018, 02:00 AM
Add another 2011 F250 to the evap temp sensor failure list. I've searched online a bit for this repair and have not seen anyone yet do a write up on sensor replacement. Everyone had the same course of action recommended, pull the dash out at 10.5 hours labor. The sensor is $38 on Ebay for a genuine Ford part. I have watched a few YouTubes on evap core replacement. The sensor is now plain as day, or the wiring harness for it, is now plain as day to see when you drop the glovebox.
I believe the purpose of the sensor is to prevent the evaporator from icing up. I am tempted to try a new sensor and just screw putting it in the core because I have zero interest in pulling the dash to be able to get the evap core out of the top trap door. Has anyone just plugged a new sensor in and let it dangle behind the dash? I think it could lead to evap freeze up, but that can be dealt with by cycling the AC??
I was going to ask Ford for some help on this repair as I was quoted about $1700 by the dealer that diagnosed it. Also been quoted around $500 by an independent shop. The independent shop claims they just install the temp sensor in a different part of the evaporator core. I wonder if they cut a hole elsewhere into the evap core cavity, or just plug the sensor in and run it with it taped up under the dash....who knows?!?!?!?
So I'm bringing this thread back to life to see if I can shake any info out from the woodwork. Thank you in advance.
I believe the purpose of the sensor is to prevent the evaporator from icing up. I am tempted to try a new sensor and just screw putting it in the core because I have zero interest in pulling the dash to be able to get the evap core out of the top trap door. Has anyone just plugged a new sensor in and let it dangle behind the dash? I think it could lead to evap freeze up, but that can be dealt with by cycling the AC??
I was going to ask Ford for some help on this repair as I was quoted about $1700 by the dealer that diagnosed it. Also been quoted around $500 by an independent shop. The independent shop claims they just install the temp sensor in a different part of the evaporator core. I wonder if they cut a hole elsewhere into the evap core cavity, or just plug the sensor in and run it with it taped up under the dash....who knows?!?!?!?
So I'm bringing this thread back to life to see if I can shake any info out from the woodwork. Thank you in advance.