My LUK cost me about 1000.00 in 2010 as I recall.

 

OH MY GOD!!!

 

I don't believe it can be inspected until it is removed. I had no idea my problem was the flywheel/clutch until it exploded on me in New Mexico and took out my starter too. I was headed to South Carolina from California so as you can imagine, I was pretty bummed.

 

The dual mass flywheel will cost you the same as the single mass conversion but the next clutch will be a lot less expensive. I had 199,000 miles on my original clutch.

 

Which would be the better way to go in the long run? dual mass flywheel or luk clutch?

 

Riffraff Diesel has South Bend Clutches. They are a bit cheaper. Here is the link. Talk to Clay, he's a great guy.

Ford - 94-97 'OBS' 7.3L - Drivetrain - South Bend Clutch - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

The single mass is the best way to go. Whether it is a LUK, Valair or South Bend.

 

The clutch pedal is so much lighter when it's upgraded to the single mass too.

 

To check the flywheel, remove the inspection cover. Try to move the flywheel. If you can move it several degress, it's on its way out.

 

I will definitely check tonight. Can't wait to get it fixed!!

Edit: Is it safe to drive like this or will it possibly cause damage to the crank or transmission? If it will just go and leave me somewhere that's fine I'll tow it myself home but if it can cause damage to the big 2 I'll replace it before I drive it.

 

On the DMF, if you can rotate the flywheel 5/8 of an inch fairly easily it needs to be replaced. It sounds like the center bearing is going bad, as what happened to my 97. That cost me a tranny, as it cracked the bell housing. I would replace it asap.

 

Good to know! I will go he tonight and pull the cover weather permitting. If it is bad I'll pull the transmission n t-case to replace it all. This is my first hydraulic clutch setup so how does all that work in way of maintence? Bleed it or not even touch it?
Also the south Bend stock power looks like A good option to the link above, assuming it's a single mass... will call him later to find out!

 

The clutch slave cylinder is held on to the bell of the tranny with a spring clip. Just pry it off of the bell without removing the hydrolic line. The ram of the cylinder will expand out, but it will compress to get it back in place on the bell on reassembly. If you remove the hydrolic line from the slave, it can be a beach to get all the air out of the system.

 

Good deal I won't mess with the line then, but does that flywheel and clutch sound right? I can get part numbers in a sec.

 

If you are talking about the one from Clay at Riffraff, that looks right.