Reseating wheel studs during front rotor change
#1
Reseating wheel studs during front rotor change
I pounded my old wheel studs out of the old rotor and through the hub. That was actually a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. One to two whacks each is all it took. I got my new rotors set on the hub and set the wheel studs back in. But when I go to set them the whole way a few of them won't seat completely. I watched a YouTube video that the guy was able to put his lug nuts on backwards (with the rounded edge away so it wouldn't damage that edge). I tried to spin mine on that way but they can't go on backwards because they are not threaded to the end. So I figured I'd take my chance and try putting them on normally with the rounded edge in but they don't have enough thread to go all the way down to start pulling the wheel stud through. I hope that makes sense the way I'm explaining it. I tried using a cold chisel and small sledge hammer but I can't seem to seat them that way either. Only a few are sticking up a little. Would they seat properly once I put it all back together and have the tire and wheel on? That would make up the difference in space I don't have right now due to the lug nuts not being threaded far enough. Maybe that would hopefully pull those remaining studs through the rest of the way. Thoughts?
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unless you plan to replace them, beating them with a hammer isn't always the best way to remove them. press them out, and reinstall by flipping the nut over and tightening it with a wrench against the hub. hurts nothing. It should grab and seat the stud well. something isn't right if there arent enough threads for the nut to grab on. I just did this 2 weeks ago.
#7
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Greater Austin, Texas
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I have always pulled mine thru with the backwards lug nut and some washers. Never had a problem. I have been told that this warps the rotors and you should have them turned afterwards, but it's not ever been an issue for me. Just tighten them a little at a time in a star pattern. I use an impact wrench for this.
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#8
This is a picture of my lug nuts with one facing up and one facing down. The one on the right is the rounded end that normally goes toward the wheel when tightening. You can see how much smaller the other opening is on the other end. I can't get that side to start on the threads because of the smaller opening. The next picture is with the lug nut placed as if I were going to tighten it down with the wheel on. You can see where the lug nut "bottoms out" and won't reach the rotor to try and pull the studs through. That space is normally filled in by the thickness of the rim. I guess worse case is I have to grab the tire and rim and put that on then I can try pulling the studs through.
The other ones are just tightened down a couple threads so I don't lose them. The one in the center of the picture is the one I tightened down as far as it would go.
The other ones are just tightened down a couple threads so I don't lose them. The one in the center of the picture is the one I tightened down as far as it would go.
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I finally sucked it up and bought one of these for installing studs. It works well. is it required, no but makes it pretty easy.
Lisle 22800 Socket - Mechanics Tools
So after you guys do studs how many times do you check lug nut torques when done?
Lisle 22800 Socket - Mechanics Tools
So after you guys do studs how many times do you check lug nut torques when done?