Lund Visor & Windshield replacement
#1
Lund Visor & Windshield replacement
So when I bought my rig in 2010 it had a Lund visor on it, granted I may not have chosen to put on one but it is on there......
Windshield is busted and I need to have it replaced......the company that came today said they needed the Lund removed and all my gauges removed in order to do the window.......I get the gauge pod (above mirror) that isn't that big a deal, pull it down and pull the wires off the gauges.....
But I am very hesitant to disturb the Lund visor.
Can someone help confirm the visor indeed needs to come off? I am worried it will never be as well attached and I'm going to end up with body work being done on the roof to fix it.
Windshield is busted and I need to have it replaced......the company that came today said they needed the Lund removed and all my gauges removed in order to do the window.......I get the gauge pod (above mirror) that isn't that big a deal, pull it down and pull the wires off the gauges.....
But I am very hesitant to disturb the Lund visor.
Can someone help confirm the visor indeed needs to come off? I am worried it will never be as well attached and I'm going to end up with body work being done on the roof to fix it.
#2
I'd guess it would be very difficult to replace the windshield with the visor on. Not impossible, but very difficult.
There's a chance you could find a smaller shop, take the truck to them, and have them use 2 or 3 people to do the install and leave the visor in place. Of course it will probably cost 2 - 3 times what the normal windshield replacement will cost.
There's a chance you could find a smaller shop, take the truck to them, and have them use 2 or 3 people to do the install and leave the visor in place. Of course it will probably cost 2 - 3 times what the normal windshield replacement will cost.
#4
A few rust spots of 1" or so , not surprised, the largest had nothing to do with the visor.....they are around two of my lights.......
#5
I hear you, I went through the same thing a couple of years ago when I had to take my visor off for a windshield r$r. I ended up just waxing the roof a couple of coats & put the visor back, now I'm half afraid to know how it looks under the visor now lol
#6
That sucks. I didn't find and rust on mine, yet. But I haven't removed the 2 center mount points from the cab yet....
#7
It looks like it was mounted by someone following the Lund direction with silicone etc..so it wasn't a hack job on the mount or anything.
I'm seriously considering having the rust repaired and having the roof sprayed if someone will do just the roof. The truck is black so hopefully they can blend it fine......I don't need a $5000-$8000show quality paint job. We're talking "Uh-Oh Better get the cheap guys" route.
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#8
Any reputable paint shop should be able to repair and blend-paint just the roof, particularly if you specify that is all you want and it is known you are not expecting a 100pt show car result.
In 2005 when I bought my new Saleen Mustang, the rear fascia had sanding marks in it from Saleen. I took the rear fascia off and took it to the dealer and said repaint this under warranty. They said they couldn't do it without it being on the car so they could "blend" into the quarter panels. I said you are not sanding and painting on my brand-new car. It's a brand new car so mix the paint to spec and let it fly. They agreed and it turned out perfect.
In your case it is the roof....so if it is not perfect, who is going to see it anyway?
In 2005 when I bought my new Saleen Mustang, the rear fascia had sanding marks in it from Saleen. I took the rear fascia off and took it to the dealer and said repaint this under warranty. They said they couldn't do it without it being on the car so they could "blend" into the quarter panels. I said you are not sanding and painting on my brand-new car. It's a brand new car so mix the paint to spec and let it fly. They agreed and it turned out perfect.
In your case it is the roof....so if it is not perfect, who is going to see it anyway?
#9
Any reputable paint shop should be able to repair and blend-paint just the roof, particularly if you specify that is all you want and it is known you are not expecting a 100pt show car result.
In 2005 when I bought my new Saleen Mustang, the rear fascia had sanding marks in it from Saleen. I took the rear fascia off and took it to the dealer and said repaint this under warranty. They said they couldn't do it without it being on the car so they could "blend" into the quarter panels. I said you are not sanding and painting on my brand-new car. It's a brand new car so mix the paint to spec and let it fly. They agreed and it turned out perfect.
In your case it is the roof....so if it is not perfect, who is going to see it anyway?
In 2005 when I bought my new Saleen Mustang, the rear fascia had sanding marks in it from Saleen. I took the rear fascia off and took it to the dealer and said repaint this under warranty. They said they couldn't do it without it being on the car so they could "blend" into the quarter panels. I said you are not sanding and painting on my brand-new car. It's a brand new car so mix the paint to spec and let it fly. They agreed and it turned out perfect.
In your case it is the roof....so if it is not perfect, who is going to see it anyway?
Fixing the rust and repainting should get me another 5 years or so IMHO.
#10
Windshield replaced fine today....had to move all my gauge wires as the guy was worried about cutting them.......rather have him be careful I guess.
The good news is I was able to pull the mirror so I can finally slide over my second gauge pod which is mounted above where the rear mirror usually is. With the cap on the back the rear mirror is relatively useless anyways for me.
Hitting a body shop tomorrow to see about roof rust repair and respray......we'll see how that conversation goes.
The good news is I was able to pull the mirror so I can finally slide over my second gauge pod which is mounted above where the rear mirror usually is. With the cap on the back the rear mirror is relatively useless anyways for me.
Hitting a body shop tomorrow to see about roof rust repair and respray......we'll see how that conversation goes.
#11
The estimator's jaw will spit a number, and your jaw will hit the floor.
That's usually how body shop conversations go.
A body shop is like a license to print money.
#12
Edit/Update: I figured I would update this in case someone finds this in a search sometime in the future. Quote from body shop is $400-500, so I'm going to have them do that. Grind down several rust spots, fiberglass any holes, smooth, prep for paint and spray to factory black and blend with rest of cab. It is worth it for me to have that done.
#13
#14
Then take the temperature of the headliners inside both trucks. It's not the temperature of the skin that makes the difference, but what transfers through. You've got more heat gain through your windows than you'll get through a black roof.
#15
Chris that's a good idea. I'm gonna try that this August when the heat beats on the roof to such a degree that you can't even see the scenery beyond the truck... as the heat waves distort the atmosphere into a wavy rippling haze.
The interior is so suffocatingly hot, I leave the windows cracked, and I leave two big gulp cups full of water in the cupholders so that the water will evaporate into the interior, which I think reduces the dryness and cracking of the interior leather seats.
Big gulp cups are ideal for this, as they have a larger surface area at the top of the cup so that more water can evaporate per unit of time in that oven of an interior. I refill the cups at least once a week in the summertime.
But I will use both a non contact surface thermometer, as well as an ambient thermometer, to test your premise and put a number on it. All my other cars/trucks are white, and they definitely are cooler inside. I thought the Ford should be black, harkening back on what old Henry was famous for saying. Never again though.
The interior is so suffocatingly hot, I leave the windows cracked, and I leave two big gulp cups full of water in the cupholders so that the water will evaporate into the interior, which I think reduces the dryness and cracking of the interior leather seats.
Big gulp cups are ideal for this, as they have a larger surface area at the top of the cup so that more water can evaporate per unit of time in that oven of an interior. I refill the cups at least once a week in the summertime.
But I will use both a non contact surface thermometer, as well as an ambient thermometer, to test your premise and put a number on it. All my other cars/trucks are white, and they definitely are cooler inside. I thought the Ford should be black, harkening back on what old Henry was famous for saying. Never again though.