Hey folks, I'm taking my turbo off to replace the y-pipe.. Ran into a problem.. All videos, etc.. say the back bolt for the turbo/pedestal mount is set straight up and down. I can only locate one that is horizontal pointing from the back wall towards the turbo/front. I could only fit my tiniest socket wrench in there, and after a few hours of trying to break torque, i finally stripped the bolt head.. There is no way to get any other tools back there, and I am a little exasperated trying to get this bolt out..

I gues my question is... Is this another bolt on turbo that I have been wasting my efforts, or are some of the 2003 models different ( with a horizontal facing bolt rather than the up and down)?? I am pretty sure that it is the mounting bolt, but would love confirmation, and any tips on getting a stripped bolt out in this awkward area...

Thanks
MAtthew

 

Need some details on your truck man. Year (2003?) engine, etc. You're talking turbo so it must be a diesel, but in 03 there were 2 different diesels offered.

 

My truck is a 2003 6.0 L Diesel.... XLT Excursion. Everything I come across describes the bolt as being vertical, but with a little mirror I can see that on mine its a horizontal bolt, its got the identical bushing and beside it the seating pin that the other two bolts also have. ITs stripped bad, so I'm going to have to switch to trying to get a chisel and hammer it out ( I think will be impossible to get the angles or any clearance) I wont be able to cut it or drill it in that tight space..

 

Just read that on 2004 they changed the turbo mounting bolt spacer size from the 2003 6.0. I think that rear bolt position must have been changed as well because it is so difficult to undo the way it was facing....

 

Moved to the 6.0 forum

 

'03 to early '04 turbos had horizontal bolts front and back. Later '04 and up 6.0L turbos had the rear bolt vertical.

It's critical to use a good six point socket on that bolt to not strip the head. If stripped you can use a stripped head socket tool to get it off, there are threads on most diesel forums about them. That bolt area needs to be sprayed and time soaked with a good lube like PB Plaster for a few hours.

I don't think cutting the bolt head off is going to get you anywhere. Sears sells the tool for the stripped head. Otherwise you'll have to unbolt the pedestal and take them both out at the same time.

And Ron's video:

 

You got it.
Ron has a lot of other good videos to watch also.
Then there is Srmastertech on Youtube. If Ron
has not done a topic he will most likely have it.

Pulling the pedestal will be a head ache. Soak the
bolt with something like Kroil to help you. When they new
ones go in be sure to put some nickel anti-size on them.
You can get it in small tubes at the local auto parts store
if they don't have it check around for it. You don't want the aluminum
based stuff in this location and if you clean the turbo and
use anyi-size the book says to also use the nickel.

Good luck and take your time. Ask questions if you
run into problems. That is why we are here.



Sean

 

6 point 1/4 drive socket, flex head rachet and get it glowing with the torch.
The rear bolt is a pain when its stripped but you can get it. If its so stripped that wont get it your left with the next step being a stripped bolt extractor socket or cutting it.
90% of the time the first step with a little finesse will get it right out. Just make sure to get it on fast while its still hot and get it all the way on before you start turning.
You can get the torch in from the passenger side in-between the turbo and the intake. I usually use both hands on the ratchet, one on each side of the turbo reaching around.

 

Kroil makes a great penetrant, not far behind is LPS KB88. I would spray a couple times and let soak overnight to help them loosen it up.

 

I've heard the name kroil a lot but never tried it. That much better than pb blaster or anything else?

 

ATF and Acetone 50/50 is a nice alternative to PB Blaster, etc.

I've never had an issue on early turbos and the rear bolt. Just don't use a wrench with too much of an angle on the drive end. Flatter the better.

Josh

 

I've found Kroil or ATF/acetone to be the most effective, but PB Plaster is everywhere and better then some of the others.

I had one '03 turbo back bolt I just couldn't get to move by hand. I ended up using a six point wrench held in place with my right and a long pipe held in my left on the open end of the wrench that went out over the fender so a helper could impact the end with a hammer. Once it finally moved I could wrench it out.

And yes always Antiseize in the threads of the turbo and on the threads of bolts for the next guy.

 

Because you never know if your going to be the next guy or not.



Sean

 

So, to clarify, the Turbos with the horizontal bolt in back is the one everyone wants, right?

 

That is the early one that makes a nice sound and
can **** off the guy that is trying to sleep. But
hey he should not be sleeping when we are driving.
He should be looking and whistling and saying "Nice sexy truck"!


Sean