Hey guys,

I recently simplified my hobbies enough that I can turn my attention back to my 78 F250 4x4. Bought it on my 15th Bday and decided years ago to restore it. I haven't spent a lot of time on it on recent years, it has just been waiting patiently in the car port under its cover. I have, however, been amassing parts.

It's getting to be time to decide what I am going to do with the suspension/tires/wheels/steering. Since there is a lot of money at stake here I thought I better talk to you guys.

I currently still have it at stock height with an HP44 out front. However, right in front of the truck sits a SnoFighter D60 (complete with springs and steering) ready to roll under the truck. Now, the front springs on the 44 are sagging BAD. I mean, the rear (has overload leaves) looks like you could fit 35's with room to spare, while the front looks almost maxed with the 33's it currently wears. The truck has a very noticeable rake as it sits now. The springs on the 60 look to be in much better shape (and heavier duty, including military wrap on front eye). They might even level the truck out.

I feel like I want to lift the truck, more for a little bit more aggressive look than anything. I'll be honest in saying the truck will see limited off-roading (mainly hunting), but it will be asked regularly to tow toys.

So I guess the first question to ask is how big of tires. This is my first conundrum. I *think* I want 35's, but then I hear conflicting opinions. Some say 4" w/ 35's looks just great, others say it's too much lift. I hear the reverse argument with 37's - Some say the tires look too "stuffed", others say it looks "right". What do you guys think? Part of me says the 35's would be a better choice, another part says 37's would look better. In either case, I don't want to worry about interference with fenders, etc on the rare occasions I do wheel it.

Then what to do for lift. I guess the easy way out (but not the cheap way) is to just buy the Skyjacker 4" system for $1300. However, I hear that it's poorly designed and rides rough as hell. Since this truck will spend a lot of time on road, I think the ride is going to be important.

So then I thought about SD springs in front and Sky's shackle flip in back. Seems like I could do it a lot cheaper than $1300. I have no idea which SD springs to buy. I heard that the SD springs net you about 2" lift over what they advertise for the SD (4" spring = 6" lift, etc). I hear these springs ride a lot better - true story???

Now for the shackle flip. It seems like a very easy install (especially the bolt-on Sky's). However, I've heard that it isn't a good idea if you tow a lot because you are now putting the shackles in compression rather than tension. Any truth to this?

Using the SD springs and shackle flip also got me thinking of the possibility of only putting 2" of lift on it by using stock SD springs (2" lift) and Sky's new 2" flip hangers. I think this would clear 35's easily without being "too much" lift.

So, what's gonna look best and what's gonna ride best? What's the best bang for my buck?

I know what ever I do for lift will require new shocks (they need replaced anyways), but what else am I going to need to consider?

I also wanna rework the steering. I was looking at crossover steering, then thought I might even go to hi-steer. I know the pass side shock needs to be moved to the rear (no problem), but now I am reading that you need a minimum lift to clear the front crossmember? Any truth to that? If so, how much lift? I sure would like to ditch the push-pull steering but the thought of having to throw in 6" of lift to do it is somewhat of a turn-off.

I imagine I will have tons of questions for you guys so please bear with me. Interested in your opinions!!!

 

I have nothing in the way of answers to those questions, but do have a couple of bookmarks for later reference. Might help you with the tire size/lift conundrum. Pictures worth a thousand words, etc.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ire-wheel.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ire-sizes.html

 

4" Rough Country and 35" makes it driveable and still a good tow rig, my Blue truck.

6" Skyjacker 35's (my red truck) but I could fit 36's, 37" or even 38.5's Yes it does or did ride rough, but it (the springs) have and will settle down and then run good shocks.

But that does put the back bumper up there, ever if you add a under the rear tank that is frame mounted drop hitch w/receiver you will still need a 6 to 10 drop slide in receiver.

4" or 6" longer brake lines x3 (2 front 1 rear) Skyjacker sells steel braided one that are nice and bolt right on.

Drop pitman arm (NO steering block), adjustable steering arm. Even with 6" skyjacker you will reuse the factory rear block. New u bolts front rear, new shocks for the 6". But NO d/s lengthening....for either. the 6" rear springs come with degree shims to hel rotate that axle pinion back to a better angle and safe those u joints.

Tying to build it a piece at a time with SD springs, Sky shackle flip (involves rivet PITA grinding).

Ck out Atlas...http://www.atlassuspension.com/

Cross over and high steer is worth it, but only takes more time and $$$. and getting you passenger side steering knuckle drilled. And then locate some high steer arms. And And and......

 

Hey, thanks for the reply!

I hadn't really considered the RC kit because I heard it was worse junk than the SJ kit. I will look more at it.

Figured a big drop hitch would be in order. We're no strangers to towing with lifted trucks so we will find a way to make it work. I also figured that I would need longer brake lines. Good to hear that there is no driveshaft lengthening, that was something I had no clue on. Actually, right now, I think a combination of the bigger D60 axle and sagging front springs has it so my front DS is too LONG. The lift should help that, lol.


Man, thanks for the Atlas link! I've never heard of them but man do they make some nice springs for these trucks. I'll definitely be giving them a call later today. Sure, they cost some $$$ but I'm not opposed to spending it if they perform as well as they say they do. Those Atlas's also have an option of getting rid of the rear block - I'm guessing the arch the springs more to compensate???

What shocks do you guys recommend? Rancho 9000's? Bilsteins?

Yeah, I figured the steering is worth it. I shouldn't have to have my knuckles drilled/tapped - D60 remember? I should just need the arms and right now the NWF arms have my attention. I'm just worried that a 4" lift isn't going to be enough for the drag link to clear the fron x-member. Any input?

How much drop do I need on the pitman arm for crossover/hi-steer?

 

Thanks for the links, I spent plenty of time drooling, lol. From the pictures, I think I want to stick with a 4" lift and 35's.

Thanks again!

 

If you want to use the chebby 1-ton TRE's, doesn't the pitman arm need to have the taper enlarged?

 

Don't mind me, I'm just bookmarking this to follow along.

 

UPDATE: I just got off the phone with Northwest Fab about their "direct-fit" steering kits, including the high-steer version.

Their input - a Ford pickup of this vintage needs 8"-10" of lift to run high-steer. They said this is due to interference between the tie rod and front x-member. This might explain why the only trucks I see here on FTE with hi-steer have big lifts.

Based on this, it sounds like hi-steer is out and crossover steering is the next best alternative.

 

Crossover any one? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-steering.html

 

I'm going with a crossover set-up in my 1978. Im still running the D44, so I installed a flat-top steering knuckles. I just ordered my crossover kit from Sky Mfg, but it hasn't arrived yet. I'm also running a SJ 4" lift as well as Atlas springs. I agree that they were a great company to work with, and they did add additional arch to eliminate the rear blocks.

 

So 4" SJ in front and the Atlas in the rear correct? What did the Atlas rear springs (to ditch the rear block) cost ya?

And please make sure to do a build thread with pics on the cross-over please. FTE needs more like you to post up.

 

Oops. I mis-spoke. I used 4" Atlas springs front and rear. My shocks are from SJ, and are a bit longer to accommodate the added lift. I can't seem to get the top washer on the rear shocks because it interferes with the mounting bracket. Will post pics over in my build thread (I don't want to hijack this one).

 

And post up the part's used from Atlas please.

 

Alright guys, I think I am gonna settle on a 4" kit from Atlas and ditch the rear blocks. 35" tires and I am going to do the crossover steering. Question, what's so special about these Redhead Steering Gears I keep hearing about? Their website makes me think they are nothing more than a rebuilt gear (with a red painted top). Can someone enlighten me? Would it be worth doing?

Reason I ask, I thought I might eventually add hydro-assist. I once contacted PSC years ago and they quoted me $275 to rebuild my gear and port it for hydro-assist. Redhead is asking $350 and that doesn't even include hydro-assist (or does it?). Are they capable of doing that?

When I finally start doing all this, I need to start a build thread...

 

Here's my 79 F-250 on a 4" lift and 315/75/R16s. My lift is a hybrid one. RC in the front and SJ in the rear. The 35s look fine IMO but I would probably like 36s better. I wanted to keep my OBS Alcoas so that is why I went with the 315/75/R16s. The Rough Country is exactly what it's name implies, it's rough. I wish I went full Skyjacker. The rear rides very smooth. Let us know how you like the Atlas Springs.

I also used Skyjacker M95 Monotube nitrogen shocks. I really like them so far.