What to do with dual tank F250 that doesn't get driven much?
#1
What to do with dual tank F250 that doesn't get driven much?
I have dual tanks on my 1976 F250. They are factory as far as I know. Is the rear tank the main tank? it also has one on the side of the frame rail mounted lengthwise, would that be the auxiliary?
Is it best to leave these tanks full? use one for a bit, then switch to the other? leave them half full? with the crappy 10% ethanol gas that we are stuck with I have added Sta-Bil to the fuel. Is that all I should do?
Is it best to leave these tanks full? use one for a bit, then switch to the other? leave them half full? with the crappy 10% ethanol gas that we are stuck with I have added Sta-Bil to the fuel. Is that all I should do?
#2
I use ethanol free fuel and switch tanks regularly. Full tanks produce less condensation.
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
Or if e free fuel not near by Star Tron works good.
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Gas and Diesel Additive
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
Or if e free fuel not near by Star Tron works good.
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Gas and Diesel Additive
#3
Right on.
You want to look for "un-oxegenated" or "non oxegenated"
that means there's no corn juice in it.
The pumps will usually say something like "small engines and antique autos"
It costs more
Other than that, premium helps some, but it's still crappy compared to the non ox
A friend of mine runs dyno's for a powersports manufacturer.
They did an experiment with regular and premium pump fuels in carburetors.
He said the regular started growing green stuff inside the carbs in a week, the premium was surprisingly better, like it went a couple months or so before it started crapping things up.
You want to look for "un-oxegenated" or "non oxegenated"
that means there's no corn juice in it.
The pumps will usually say something like "small engines and antique autos"
It costs more
Other than that, premium helps some, but it's still crappy compared to the non ox
A friend of mine runs dyno's for a powersports manufacturer.
They did an experiment with regular and premium pump fuels in carburetors.
He said the regular started growing green stuff inside the carbs in a week, the premium was surprisingly better, like it went a couple months or so before it started crapping things up.
#4
I have dual tanks on my 1976 F250. They are factory as far as I know. Is the rear tank the main tank? it also has one on the side of the frame rail mounted lengthwise, would that be the auxiliary?
Is it best to leave these tanks full? use one for a bit, then switch to the other? leave them half full? with the crappy 10% ethanol gas that we are stuck with I have added Sta-Bil to the fuel. Is that all I should do?
Is it best to leave these tanks full? use one for a bit, then switch to the other? leave them half full? with the crappy 10% ethanol gas that we are stuck with I have added Sta-Bil to the fuel. Is that all I should do?
The best practice is to keep the fuel tank as full as possible, add a high quality fuel stabilizer, and run the truck for a few minutes to make sure the whole fuel system is treated. The reason you want them full is to avoid open space for condensation to cause rust & corrosion. Also, with too much water in ethanol blended fuel, you could see phase separation occur.
We might be a little biased, but we think STA-BIL® was a great choice..
Please do not hesitate to let us know if you have any further questions or comments.
Have a great day!
Last edited by STA-BIL®; 03-31-2015 at 01:59 PM. Reason: wording
#5
Thanks for the replies. Ill just keep the tanks topped off as much as I can and use Sta-Bil as I cant get non ethanol gas except for a station that sells sunoco 100 race fuel and it is $8/gallon. Their used to be non ethanol 94 at the race track I lived by (sears point raceway) but I dont live there anymore.
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