I've read a bunch of the the write ups for it first off.

I ordered the kit from summit racing and in their comments someone mentioned the kit not having the valve body gaskets and you will need to have a new set on hand to install the kit.

I hadn't heard that mentioned in any of the write ups, does anyone have better info on this?

I'm pulling the trans over the next couple days and will be replacing the torque converter (excessive slippage code), installing the tugger kit hopefully with the pump mods. I do have the front pump gasket on order.

I'd love to have all my ducks in a row, I've got this week and this weekend that I won't need the truck for work.

 

though not the tugger kit,i think you'll still find it useful;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...shift-kit.html

that kit didn't include new valve body gasket either.i reused the old one.if you rip it though,you'd be up the creek i guess.

the converter slip code doesn't always (kinda seldom) mean the converter is to blame.as a general rule,it's almost always an electrical issue.the first place to go whenever you get the slip code imho is the bulkhead connector.

though written for the idi/e40d combo the basics apply to all e40d's;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-harness.html

 

I'm pretty confident it's actually the converter, though I'll definitely check out the connector.

Bought the truck with a 12' Lance cabover, trans had set excessive slippage and high temperature warning codes.

If you reset the computer it'll work as normal until you try to pull a grade in OD. It'll reset the slippage code every time. If I drop out of OD for hills it won't set the code.

I'm willing to bet the guy roasted the TCC with the combo of that camper and driving it in the mountains.. Fluid is also burnt, but not black.

edit: come to think of it.. I could understand this connector causing all of this. I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow and look into it before I drop the trans, though I sort of want to so I can install the tugger kit properly anyways. Thanks for the info.

 

if you cancel od,the converter remains (unlocks then locks right back up) locked.so if you pull a grade with od canceled and it doesn't slip,then it sounds like the od discs are whats slipping im afraid.

 

Well, I'll pull it out and see what it looks like. I haven't dropped the pan yet, but at this point I'm committed to swapping the tc, and see what happens.

I don't have the atsg book for the e4od so I'm a little hesitant to open it up. Once I get it out and do a check up I'll decide where to go from there. If it's burnt up bad, I'll probably just start putting together a zf swap.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

Just wanted to say you've probably been right this whole time. I'm putting the trans back in right now, and peeled back the heat sleeve covering the wiring. There are at least 3 of the wires worn through the insulation, and I didn't even rub the grime off of the rest of them.

It looks like the heat sleeve was pressing against the wires and just plain rubbed through it.

I still pulled the trans to put the tugger kit in. It turned out that the pump mods were already done, so I didn't even have to really. Well, at least now I know!