Hello again,

I have 2 problems I am working on today. One being a set of wires hanging down near the tranny.

this is the wire socket hanging down from a wiring wad




This is the side of the tranny near the shifter.


I have no idea what this is or what it is for, but the tranny has 3 wires hanging on it, and this has 3 wires, they are close enough that I could wire it together but would rather not because I have no clue what it is.. any help would be great..



Next....... I recently had a garage put a new holley 600 on. instantly I noticed less power than I had before, but can deal with less power, my concern at this time is this..

When I come to a stop at a light or stop sign, the idle sounds fine, when I go to take off it has good power and I have no complaints at all, problem is when I slow down a little then give it more gas to speed back up ( like slowing down for a red light that then turns green before I stop) it has nearly no power, I have to put it to the floor to get any power and even then it is very little, but if I come to a complete stop and then give it gas I have all the power I should have.

Any idea's?

and as far as power, it has about 5/8's of the power it had before the new carb was added. The old carb was a holley 600 as this new one is also.

Any idea's on that?

Thanks again guys.

At this time I have no vacuum gauges to do tests with..

 

With the engine off, take the aircleaner off. Climb up in the engine bay with a flashlight, and with the choke door open, look down the carb throat while someone pushes the pedal to the floor. See if the throttle butterflies are wide open standing straight up. If not, you need to mess with the linkage till the carb is wide open when the pedal is down. You can also look at any carpet or mats in the floor that might be restricting movement.

Those wires look like they are red with a blue stripe. If they are, they are the neutral safety switch wires. If that turns out to be true, then your truck should not start. Has someone added a pushbutton start switch? Has the tranny been changed?

 

The wires where hanging down when I bought the truck about 6 years ago. The starter solenoid went out about a month ago, and I didnt have the money to replace it at the time (i know they are cheap) so I ran a hot wire into the cab with a toggle, after removing and capping the wire from the solenoid.

so would you recommend attaching the wires? when I seen them I was wondering if they were maybe an overdrive wires. only because when I am driving it has always seemed like 3rd gear was a bit much for 60 mph.

 

You have a 1985 model with a 5.0/302 with a carburetor. That was the last year for a carburetor and one of only two years that used the EEC-IV engine computer with a computer-controlled TFI ignition and feedback carburetor.

What type of ignition system are you using? Does your distributor have a vacuum hose attached to the end of it? If you still have the stock 1985 distributor (no vacuum advance), the problem is your engine computer is confused with the Holley carburetor and has locked the ignition timing.

No vacuum advance = low power and bad fuel economy.

 

Yes, the dizzy does not have a vaccum line, it has a sensor attached to the side of it, I have been told to upgrade the dizzy to something else while on this site, but simply put...cant afford it.

Can I do anything to unlock this timing problem?

Thanks for the reply..

 

No, there is nothing you can do to make the EEC-IV computer-controlled distributor advance the timing without putting everything back the way your truck originally came.

The cheapest way is to hit up a junkyard and try to find a complete Duraspark II ignition system (distributor, coil, ignition module, and the wire harness that connects it all together) from a 1980-1983 model truck or Bronco with a 302. These models used a mechanical distributor with a vacuum-controlled advance.

What transmission does your truck have? If you have an AOD (Automatic OverDrive), you better make sure the connection from the carburetor to the transmission is correct or you can kiss it goodbye.

 

The tranny is an automatic 3 speed, shifter on the steering column.

The fuel and the throttle are the only things attached to the carb other than the vacuum line from the valve cover. The carb that was on the truck when I bought it was perfect...

It was a holley 600 as this one is, but the carb had a vacuum line going from the from area under the mixture screw on passenger side to a place in the back of the carb, as well as the vacuum line from valve cover in the back.

This new carb has plugged ports but the garage said it didnt need to be plugged into anything.

The other carb ran great, had perfect take off and high end power, both of which are lacking today.

should a line of some sort be going from the carb to the tranny? Im certain it didn't on the old carb

Thanks

 

I removed the air filter and check, they are going wide open when the pedal is to the floor.

Thanks

 

I did a bit of research, and come to realize that the vacuum advance port on the carb next to the idle mixture screw on my old carb had a line going from the vacuum advance port to someplace near the back of the carb, but was on the carb, whatever this was has to be the problem, as the old carb didnt have a line going to the dizzy, and ran great with both high end and low end power.

Any idea what the vacuum advance port was connected to? and what I can do to get that same setting back?

 

The vacuum advance port on the carburetor should be connected to the vacuum advance canister on a distributor that has it. I don't know of any other place it could be connected to.

No matter what aftermarket carburetor you use, you will NOT get vacuum advance with a EEC-IV controlled TFI distributor.

Capiche?

 

I was wondering why you changed the carburetor if the old one was running "great".

Maybe you should put the old carb back on and see how it runs now.

 

Hi, good question, I posted here early last summer when all at once my truck started running really bad, would start up cold with dangerously high idle, once warmed up to 190, it would start sputtering really bad, and as soon as I put it in gear it would die unless I kept my foot on the gas. I managed to get it home by putting it in N before I came to a stop.

I was advised to have the carb rebuilt, once I did this the problem was the same but worse, the starting idel was about 3k rpms, after the rebuild it was around 4k rpms, it was scary to even start it up.

Took it to a garage where they said the carb was bad and needed to be replaced, I told them to replace it with one just like it, holley 600.

They did and they tuned it, checked the timing and said all was well, charged me 600 bucks and sent me on my way..( I hate garages)

on my way home with it, it would start backfiring at about 45 mph, and wouldnt go any faster, when I got home, I turned the dizzy just a hair and it stopped backfiring, but still no power.

I will link you to the post I made here last summer, I think its like 14 pages long, we tried everything before I sent it to the rip off center.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html


this link has pics of all the engine components before I started replacing them as well as everything we tried.
I know now that the problem has got to be in the carb/timing advance. but before my first problem last summer this truck would really run great.

in this video you can see the old carb and the vacuum line going from the front area of the carb to the back of the carb.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hfzd0rLVIBk#t=13

P.S., I no longer have the old carb because the garage "misplaced it" for the core Im betting..

 

I wonder how the garage set the timing since it's supposed to have a computer on it? Since you just turned it and it ran better, turn it some more. You can keep turning it up till it won't crank over when it's hot.

Lariat85 is correct though, it's never going to run right unless you change out the ignition system. You may get it to run like it was before, and if that's ok for you, then fine. Your fuel mileage would go way up though if you got it straightened out.

 

Thanks for the info, so.. from the video, could you tell me what all I need to replace/upgrade? I know the dizzy will need replaced with a dizzy that has a vacuum advance ..correct? what about the coil pack? and the throttle position sensor that is connected to the existing dizzy, what do I do with that? or will that no longer matter after installing the new wiring harness for the upgraded dizzy?

It is hard on gas right now, little worse than it was to start with, but at least its not just sitting and rusting away..

if you could maybe link me to the parts I need I would really appreciate it.

Thanks again for your time..

 

There's some information in the sticky/subforums on DS2 swaps....