Randy, watch those Chinese COPs, they may bite some time, again.
Good luck.

 

..............................I agree......Chinese don't have the quality. only way Id use them if I was not going to keep the truck.

 

Thanks.. and very true... but I'd rather spend $50 on a hunch than $500 and miss my mark. IMO, it was money extremely well spent.

 

I tinkered with the truck quite a bit yesterday. After I pulled the harness connector off the shifter connection on the transmission and reconnected the odometer lit up. Not sure what I did to make the check engine light go off but it did go off for a while and stayed off while I drove it a few miles. When I parked then turned off the ignition then back on the check engine light showed up again. I cleared codes and somehow made it go away again only to come back on after I started the engine once more. Of course, I tried to do all kinds of crazy stuff to get the theft light to go off so it would start. Once even locking the doors caused the theft light to come on after it was off. Also, I got a PO410 (pending) in addition to the PO750, PO755, and PO743. While driving I shifted and listened carefully for the gears to change in the transmission. Absolutely it is not going into overdrive and I'm not sure it's even shifting into any forward gear other than the one it takes off in which I believe is 2nd gear. It's running about 1700 rpm at 30 mph and somewhere around 3200 at 50 mph (or was it 60 mph). Only once was I able to feel it downshift when I pulled the shift leaver down into low range.
.... I was able to get the theft light to blink a code, 12, which I believe it is telling me the PCM is not receiving a signal from the transceiver. All issues appear to be pointing to a bad PCM or bad connection to the PCM. Hopefully it is not a bad transmission and bad PCM. I'm going to clean all the harness connections related to the PCM and apply dielectric grease to see if this changes anything. Just getting those harness connectors apart is a PITA job.
.... I made a video of the instrument cluster diagnostic which I am uploading to youtube and will post that soon as it finishes uploading. Having internet connection issues today so that will take a while... about 2 hours for a 2 minute video.

 

Diagnostic mode

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RPzBLIIWOWA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Did you notice the three DTC codes 9600, 9601 and 9602?
All indicate a 'key' problem.
None of your issues is the PCM, at this point.
Good luck.

 

Thanks! I haven't studied the codes I am getting on this test so as of now I only know what you are telling me. I'll have to do research to find out anything. I did get the panel off around the steering column and attempted to look at the wire there for the transceiver ring. As usual, I don't know what I did but now the theft light is functioning correctly and I have not been able to duplicate or cause it to start flashing again. NEW ISSUE... could be related to something going on or just another ghost causing problems. I drove it up the road, heard a little POP, now the battery light is on and the alternator is not charging. Tests with volt meter showing 11.7 volts which does not change at high rpms.... like over 3,000 rpms. Just kinda wondering if some of these problems are related to whatever made the alternator blow a diode or whatever happened to it. I have gone over every connection I could find under the hood and around the transmission and have found nothing unusual, cleaned ground connections on firewall and replaced battery terminals. BUT, I have not touched the alternator connections. I could just carry it to a Ford dealer but tho it might be a little expensive it would be no fun and I wouldn't learn anything.... I also made another video of the instrument cluster diagnostic with engine running after the alternator went out. I'll have to upload and post it.

 

If the charge lamp is on, there is one other 'control circuit' fuse that may have blown.
So you need to check that one, then find the cause of why it blew, it so.
This fuse is usually connected in series with a single lead not associated with the fuses boxes.
Otherwise the regulator or alternator may have a problem.
Always remember as a useful guide point that the charge lamp is powered through the ignition switch and the ground for it is through the alternator regulator. When the alternator voltage rises a certain amount, the regulator opens the ground putting the lamp out as a way of knowing the alternator is putting 'something' out.
A voltmeter tells you a lot about how the charge system is doing even after you get the system working.
A Haynes book might be useful to see the charge system schematic and other major parts of the PCM but nothing about PATS.
The dash circuits are mostly shown as block presentations.
We will award you your degree after you solve all the issues.
Good luck.

 

So far I have not found a schematic that I can read. I chased the wires as best I could quickly and didn't see anything like a fusible link. I haven't had time to check every fuse but I couldn't see any that looked blown in the fuse box under the hood. I have the alternator off and will run it by "the zone" this evening to check it out. If it is bad then I'm really concerned about what caused it to be bad.... wish all doctors would fix the problem and not the symptoms...

 

There has got to be an explanation for all this and it has all got to be somehow related. Here's a summary (hope I don't forget anything). I purchased and have received an OBDII usb interface and program for my laptop which is a heck of a lot better than the code reader I was borrowing from Autozone... got it off of ebay for less than $30 and very happy to have it.

The OD light flashes ONLY when engine is running.

Engine Light on... code 410 (unles I transposed numbers of 401). Related to emissions control/recirculating thingy. (I did find a "too large" piece of fuel line used to connect whatever that thingy is to one of two metal tubes near steering shaft that probably go to exhaust or intake. It's either an electric valve or some kind of switch and may be vacuum operated.

PATS codes 750, 755, 743... malfunctioning shift solenoids A & B and torque converter lockup solenoid.

Intermittently recognizing PATS key. Blinking Theft light Code 12, PCM not receiving signal from transceiver. DTC's from odometer 9600, 9601, 9602

Since beginning to work on this problem the battery light came on. Now I have the alternator off to take it to be tested at Autozone.
With alternator off there are no codes (after having battery cable disconnected) stored in the PCM but the theft light is flashing and PCM is not recognizing the PATS key.
Intermittently the key is recognized. It may be once or for all day as long as I keep driving, starting, turning engine off and on. Let it sit for a while and it won't start again until I tinker with it. I don't know what I do that makes the PCM recognize the key other than maybe moving wires.
On the issue of solenoids in the transmission I question what could cause this problem other than electronics, could it be an issue with fluid? (maybe wrong kind of Dollar store junk fluid) or trash/sludge from it sitting too long?
At first the alternator was working fine and the battery light was off while running. While driving yesterday I heard a "crack" or pop noise... battery light came on and now alternator is not charging (got it off for testing).
hmmm... what have I missed?

 

Well, the 07xx codes you see are 'not' PATS codes per you last reply.
They are transmission only codes.
The codes are for electrical malfunction only and nothing to do with fluids, filter or any non electrical function, so rule that out.
Your bringing to many other thoughts into the overall problem and creating more confusion for yourself.
.
The alternator field fuse is ...not.... in the fuse box but in a different location by itself and may be on a loose lead or otherwise.
They mounted and located different ways as the years progressed.
I am trying to give you help with the least number of words and meaning.
Please re read so your not misunderstanding.
.
The 401 code you see is for the EGR system. It's not a 410 code, can't be because 410 is air injection code for a system you do not have.


Leave the 401 code for last because it is a separate fault unrelated to your electrical power issue.
You must solve the charge issue before all others, then the transmission coeds, then the 401.
Good luck.

 

I'm in total agreement. Isolating each issue separately is key here. The 401 code doesn't concern me at this point. My best guess is a ground fault or damaged wiring harness. Locating the culprit is the problem.
Whether or not the transmission issue is related to the PATS key issue because of the wiring harness could be the question. As for the alternator, definitely dead per the test at Autozone. I have a local starter and alternator guy who I'm taking it to for a rebuild.

 

99% SUCCESS AT LAST! As I've said many times, it's always the simplest and most obvious that gets overlooked. Not exactly sure which fix fixed what but I got her done! I completely removed the shifter and wires for the overdrive "off" light, taped every little nick on it then painted it with liquid electrical tape. It appeared to have a small nick where it entered the shift arm so I gobbed a bunch of gook there and hung it up overnight to dry so that area would be insulated. The new alternator may have solved an issue, not sure but it wasn't going anywhere with a bad alternator. I'm still wondering if the alternator going out was the cause of the intermittent PATS key recognition. For the PO750, PO755,and PO743 it was either a stupid thing or an oversight. I've been having to crawl under the truck and not being able to see the wiring harness clearly and totally was overlooking the connector for the shift solenoids which was hidden by a guard. Either I failed to connect it or it had come loose during the engine installation. The latch is broken so I'm going to say that it slipped out on it's own. After all the input from you guys and all my searching and analysis it was narrowed down to a wiring harness issue so today I went for the goal by starting to completely remove the harness from the transmission to the PCM which led me to discover the unplugged connector. I've been driving all day, even went and bought a tag and title for it... the PO401 went away for about 35 miles then returned so after watching this video I am very confident troubleshooting this issue will be a minor event... pretty much either a sensor or clogged port in the intake. I GREATLY appreciate all the assistance and patience you guys have given me... now if any of you guys know anything about Volvo pentas in my ski boat it has a slough of problems after it sunk ... all electrical... BTW, I want to give props to the ELM Scantool compact that I got off of ebay and the OBDwiz program... a great deal for $29.72. It was costing me more than that to drive to the big city to borrow a code reader from Autozone then return it and this little laptop interface is much kewler and gives far more info.... now who's going to give me my degree in automotive electronics troubleshoot'n????
Here's the video for the EGR problem PO401.
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HrMsh5ciVdY" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

 

Randy what a great reply.
When some one genuinely trys hard and includes our attempts to guide from long distance behind a computer, it's a pleasure to try to help.
It tells us we knew pretty much what you needed to do if we could get those hands to do it.


Good luck with your new feeling and hope the truck works out very well for you.

 

I've been riding and really enjoying this truck for 3 weeks now with no problem except the odometer may light up one day and not the next. Yesterday it didn't light up at all. Hope to find the problem there... I'd say it's time for a new thread.