Good morning, I have a 56 f100. I am going to install an already purchased 302 and back it with a not yet purchased Ford AOD transmission. I have talked to a reputable transmission company who suggested that I order a LOKAR selector shaft and arm so they can integrate it into the transmission build when it starts. This truck is not a performance build rather a daily driver. The trans will be mechanical vs. vacuum. I saw on here recently that some year AODs were better than others. I can't locate that post. Does that still apply if the trans company is going to provide you one with upgrades? For a daily driver what specific upgrades, if any, should I ask for? Add transmissions to the list of things I know little about! Any advice appreciated. What transmission support or crossmember did you use? thanks

 

No vacuum is involved with the AOD but be sure an get the Lokar throttle valve cable and for safety, get the transmission shop to set it up. I hear that later years are better too.

 

Primarily the differences in late-80's vs. 90's AOD's is in the sizes of the OD servo and clutch packs. In the 80's only "heavy duty" versions got the bigger servo, in the 90's I think all of them did. There are other mods for the control body too. If the shop is going to install the trans, be sure to have them set the throttle valve cable!! It's critical!

 

There are lots of differences in addition to the ones mentioned. Ask specifically which upgrades will be included. Common ones are stamped drums instead of cast iron, upgraded planetary lubrication with a later model output shaft, a wider overdrive band setup including the band, reverse drum, and sun shell, and a mechanical diode on the reverse drum instead of a roller clutch. Most of the upgrade parts come out of the parts bins for the later AOD-E and 4R70W transmissions. These transmissions are direct descendants of the AOD and many of their parts are reverse compatible. You can take a relatively weak early AOD and prep it to handle 700 HP and still shift like a Lincoln in town with off-the-shelf parts if you know what you're doing. Ask lots of questions of the builder and make sure you know exactly what you're getting and what parts he's using.

Definitely request it be built with an '88 and up output shaft with improved planetary lubrication. That's mandatory. I always opt for stamped drums, the mechanical diode, and a 2" OD band kit as well. Even with a stock valve body, those items will add enough beef to ensure that the tranny will handle any engine upgrades that might strike your fancy later. Transmissions are a little expensive, but they're a whole lot pricier when you've got to build them twice!

 

Your trans guy has given you good info...buy the Lokar selector shaft and have them integrate it into the trans build. I bought the kit with the column shift option but they do have a cable option as well. The most recent AOD that I had built is a combination of an AOD trans and a 4R70W out of a 2004 Mustang.

 

I would suggest a 4r70w over an AOD. By the time you pay to have an AOD rebuilt with 4r70w parts you could have just bought a controller for the actual 4r70w. But anyhow.. This link explains the differences in AOD trans years
http://www.becontrols.com/techguide_4.htm

 

Also make sure to use the correct flexplate. A C4 flexplate will bolt up fine with an AOD, but will cause a bad vibration around 1500 RPM. I found this out the hard way...

Throttle valve cable adjustment is fairly easy, but you must follow the directions included with the Lokar TV cable. Definitely use a pressure gauge!

 

I would like to see the cost comparison on which you base this statement.
BTW - you can't bolt up a 4R70W to a SBF, so if you want the benefits of the 4R70W in your AOD then you have to use the AOD case.


A buddy has a 4R70W in his 56 behind a 312 Y-block...it's not cheap. Trans controller, sensors, adapter plate, and rebuild costs are more than some guys have in their entire trucks.

 

Ford 3.8 and 4.2 V6s use the SBF bolt pattern. I bought a 2003 80k mile V6 Mustang 4r70w for 250 (seen them for 600 rebuilt on Craigslist) and bolted it up to my 302 with no adapter. Paid 425 for a controller and 35 for a TPS. I don't have to deal with the shift when it wants AOD or the 1st 2nd 1st shuffle to hold 1st gear and I can control shift points, shift firmness, converter lock up, a lower first gear and save 4 presets for cruising soft shifts to firm race shifts. The main cost difference is 400 for a controller or 100 for a lokar TV cable. Since a 180hp v6 isn't going to hurt a 4r70w (the 70 stands for 700 lb torque and W for wide ratio) I didn't feel the need for a rebuild and there are a ton of them at the junkyards compared to low mileage AODs anymore. If I'm going through the hassle of doing a tranny swap I want the best I can get at the lowest price

 

I think you're right about that. I just rebuilt my AODE transmission myself. It's electronically controlled like the 4R70W, but doesn't have all the good parts.
By the time I bought all the upgrades such as the mechanical Diode, wide ratio planetary gear set, etc., I had quite a bit of money in it to just replicate the 4R70W.
I also have the Bauman electronic controller. Bauman engineering was very helpful, and even recommended that I get a used 4R70W from a V6 to start with, just as you suggested.

 

Thanks for all the information from everyone. I'm thinking about printing this entire subject and taking it to the builder. Let him know that although I don't know anything about transmissions I know plenty of people who do. A friend of mine suggested a 2,400rpm converter and a clutch kit. Said the clutch kit should save some wear and tear on the clutches. Any thoughts on those upgrades.

 

The link that c91x provided above, has the answers you need. Baumann Electronic Controls and the guy there at Bauman was very helpful on the phone.

 

Hey Matt,
We have an AOD in our '50 F1 behind our 351W engine. Hmmmm...

Lot's of good advice up above - Like Tony I would recommend the Baumann Engineering site for all things AOD. There are 3 different Overdrive Servo Drum sizes - A, B, C. You don't want the small C drive - the belt slips off under stress - like getting onto the freeway. The A size Overdrives came in the V8 trucks & Thunderbirds. We went with the A size Overdrive made from Kevlar.

Setting up AOD's is tricky. We went through (2) AOD transmissions during set up (ouch). We initially got a fully upgraded one from Monster Trans. & my mechanic said he could install it don't worry... He couldn't. We had good luck after we went to a Trans Shop with some old timers who really knew AOD's. They switched everything over to a Lokar set up & they set the pressure. Really small adjustments to that cable make BIG differences in the driveability & shifting - so go slow on the adjustments.

I would not recommend buying the trans On-line - If it fails then the installer blames the on-line company. The On-line company blames the installer & you get to eat $1800. We also went with an upgraded Shift Pack with more aggressive shift points. I wouldn't do that one again. It makes the shifts hard & jerky.

Good luck over there in Bakersfield. The best AOD you can do is built with AODE internals as decribed above. I'm not sure you need a bullet proof trans. unless you are going with some high HP engine mods. but definitely go with the bigger 2 inch OD Band, Lokar Shifter set up, & the better lubed shaft.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)