Has anyone here used a maxi fuse in place of their fusible link?

I'm rewiring under the hood using a underhood fuse panel from a '90's F150 and swapping to a 3G alternator and would like to eliminate the fusible link to help clean up the wiring, the one I'd like to eliminate is the link for the Main power going into the cab, I believe it is a 10 guage wire.

I've searched on other forums and the general consensus seems to be to keep the fusible links, or use a 30 amp fuse for a 10 guage wire, but 30 amps seems quite low to feed all the circuits on the truck?

 

The fusible link I cut out going to the main power/Alt had the rating written on it. Makes sense to me to replace it with a fuse that is equal to it. No bigger or smaller.

 

None of my fusible links had a rating, just their AWG size. Im also going to be running a 3G alternator so that link is gone. My harness was a hack job so im starting from scratch.

I temporarily spliced a 16 guage link in but would like to eliminate it and use a maxi fuse sincce the panel i installed under the hood has several spots for them.

a 10 AWG wire usually calls for a 30 amp fuse, but that seems low for the trucks main power wire

 

I need to do the same on mine. I have heard of folks on this site wiring in an 80 Amp Maxi-Fuse, but that seems real high for old, factory 10 awg wire.

 

The guideline for fusible links is two gauge sizes smaller than the power wire. 10 gauge power wire would get 14 gauge fusible link. The link is like a slooow blow fuse. It can take an overload briefly. If you put a fuse in, suggest 40-50 amp range and "slow blow".

Personally, I don't mind the links.

 

I had read the same thing, 80 amps seems high for the size of the wire, but sounds about right if your running with your heater on full blast, High beams and all your other lights, radio etc....

I thought about running a fuse and a fusible link in the same circuit, cheap insurance I guess.

 

Not a bad idea.

The heaviest in cab draw will be my heater blower motor. The headlights will be controlled via relays and the heavy draw portions of the stereo system will have a separate circuit all together.

 

True enough, I didn't factor in the drop when switching to relays, my headlights and horn are also wired through relays. I'm not running any big stereo equipment so I wont have to worry about that. Maybe I'll try a 40 Amp maxi fuse and see how it holds up.

 

Sounds reasonable to me. Just run everything on high for a while and check the main feed wire for heat.

Is there a way to measure the amperage of the circuit? I'm no electrician...

 

I should invest in an amp clamp and see what the draw is with everything on. Thanks for the idea

 

Everyone needs a multi meter. While I have had my Fluke meter for many years, I purchased a Southwire 21050T AC/DC clamp meter recently. It will handle up to 400amps AC/DC. Comes with a set of meter leads to function like a normal multimeter for voltage/ohms. Even a lead for measuring temp. While not "top of the line", a handy all in one tool for auto and home use. Purchased at Lowes so easy to find.
No matter what alternator you use, don't oversize the stock fuse link as it is sized to protect the existing stock wiring.

 

I pulled all the wiring from my 77 and started over with fresh wire. I replaced all the fusible links with Bussman self-resetting circuit breakers. I put in a one wire alternator and put a 140 amp quick blow resetable circuit breaker in the alternator wire. (Shown in picture) I even replaced the under dash fuse block with a home built fuse block made entirely with self-resetting Bussman circuit breakers. The only fuse left in the truck is the 2-amp inline fuse going to the instrument panel lights. (They don’t make a 2-amp circuit breaker) I found that after 30 years in the mobile radio industry that the fuse doesn’t protect the equipment. The fuse protects the wire from burning when the equipment shorts out. No fuse is going to protect a piece of equipment from blowing up so a fuse with a current rating over that of the current draw of the equipment is all that is necessary.

 

I do have decent Snap on meter but no way of measuring current over 10 amps.

 

What size is that breaker mounted on your main cab power wire?

 

Battery>80A inline fuse>continuous duty solenoid>fuse block is how I configured mine.